Dealer Installed Remote Start not starting

[mlucas]

Hello All,

I have a 2006 Explorer XLT which has a dealer installed remote starter which does not start the engine. When I push the button, the horn beeps once, there is a short pause and then the horn beeps twice and then nothing. Normally after the second set of beeps, the engine would start.

When I did my test from inside the truck, I noticed that the security light on the dashboard starts to flash quickly and the truck appears to be "locked out". It takes 15-20 minute for the system to reset itself and let me use my key to start it.

I've read most of the postings I could find on the forms. I don't believe that my model has a PATs system as the key and the door lock/unlock remote are separate (not like my wife's 2006 Fusion keys).

It looks like my problem might be that the remote starter has lost it security code to start the engine. I tried to reprogram it starting the truck and then turning it off, removing the key and within 10 seconds, pressing the button on the remote starter remote. I also tried without starting the truck, just turning the key to position 3 and then off, remove the key and press the button the remote start. (See: http://216.198.221.184/forums/showthread.php?t=270380&highlight=Remote+Start, and http://216.198.221.184/forums//showthread.php?t=258688)

It seems like the bypass link between the remote start and security system is not working. I'm an electronics guy, I can follow wires and use a test meter. Does anyone know where to start looking for the bypass module? Is it under the dash or under the hood? Any trouble shooting tips would also be helpful.

If I need to replace the bypass module, does this look like the correct part:
http://fparts.dealerfit.com/store/ford-explorer-remote-start-securilock-kit-prod831_8540.php

Thank you,
Michael

 

[cmk0808]

start car with one key, start with second key, then remote start.

post a pic of the remote you have.

 

[A Wise Guy]

The fast flash usually indicates that the key or remote start is not communicating with the pats system. On our trucks the remote is not part of the key like it is with the fusion so chances are you have the pats system which explaines the fast led flash. Going from memory here to program a third key which your remote start is go key on, key off, with second key go key on, key off then do the same with third key or in your case press the remote start button. If you have your owners manual the procedure for programming a key will be in there. Keep us posted.

 

[mlucas]

Hi Wise Guy and cmk0808,

Thank you for the quick replies!

I tried the reprogramming as suggested. I will check the owners manual next.

Here is the requested picture of my keys.

I noticed sitting in the truck this time that the red security light starts flashing quickly after the first beep, just before second set of beeps. It looks like it is going to start, I hear clicking under the dash and the console goes dark the same way it does when you use the key.

Thanks,
Michael

 

[A Wise Guy]

I have never had my '06 fault the pats system but the fast flash on my '98 was definately the pats not reading the chip.

 

[mlucas]

The procedure in the manual said to turn to position 3 (On) and wait more than 3 but less and 10 seconds before turning the off and swapping it out for key 2 and then 3. I tired several times (waiting a 1 minute between tries) with the same result... No start.

Any idea where to look for the remote starter module so I can check the wiring?

Thanks,
Michael

 

[A Wise Guy]

My best guess would be if you hear relays clicking follow the noise.

 

[Blee1099]

If it was installed by the dealer take it back and have them look at it. It should still be part of the manufacturers warranty since it was done by a dealer and therefore should be free.. If in doubt contact Ford directly and get their customer service reps on the line and find out. I know on our Toyota Highlander we had our dealer install a Toyota remote start kit and they said its covered by the vehicle manufacturers warranty and just to be safe I had them send an official letter from Toyota USA saying that it was covered under the vehicle warranty.

 

[A Wise Guy]

Blee brings up a good point. Do you have an extended warranty? If you do it may be covered. But, if you do what is your deductable? Still may be worth trouble shooting on your own.

 

[legendarybc]

Check under the hood. If they installed a pin switch, it might be corroded or adjusted incorrectly. The remote start would then think that the hood was open, and give 2 beeps. Or, they may have used the "hood tilt switch" which does the same thing, however I do not know where it is.

Anyway, here is the list of beeps to help you diagnose:

• 2 beeps - hood open or brake pressed
• 3 beeps - door open
• 4 beeps - Tach not programmed
• 5 beeps - Key In Sense (thinks key is in the ignition)
• 6 beeps - Service mode (the LED will give you a blink, blink, pause pattern.)

 

[aaronajb1981]

ahh the joys of an aftermarket unit.. lifetime warranty!! oh wait that is an aftermarket made my code alarm, but the stealerships only give you a 3-year36xxx warranty with those also...

if the key is rapidly flashing and it take the time to start the truck with the keys something is wrong on how they installed the bypass. there is 2 ways to bypass the pats in this vehicle. 1. there is a key hidden in a "coffin" box. this box will pick up the frequencies and there is a loop around the ignition cylinder. with this method sometimes over time the wraps become loose. 2. is a bypass module these are hardwired to the pats wires. these dont require any keys "hidden" in the vehicle.

It could also be that the the bypass blew its fuse and is no longer getting power.

if it doesnt see the pats chip upon start the vehicle will not crank like what you are stating.

on a side note, you can always tear it out and have an aftermarket one installed. it will have all the functions of both remotes on 1 key fob..

 

[legendarybc]

OK here is the programming steps and troubleshooting steps directly copied from the install manual. Maybe it will help.

Securilock (PATS) Interface Programming and Remote Start Operation Test
(Two programmed PATS ignition keys are required for this step)
Required for vehicles that have factory equipped Passive Anti-Theft System (PATS).

A. Sitting in the driver seat, be prepared to press the brake pedal to shut down the remote starter system.
B. Using the first key, turn the ignition on, wait for the THEFT light to turn off, then turn the ignition off and remove key from the ignition switch.
C. Using the second key, turn the ignition on, wait for the THEFT light to turn off, then turn the ignition off and remove key from the ignition switch.
D. Activate the remote start function using the PowerCode remote control transmitter. The system should flash the parking lights and chirp the horn one time, pause for four seconds then start then start the engine.
E. After the engine is started. Press the brake pedal to shutdown the engine.
The Securilock interface is now programmed. If the theft light begins flashing rapidly and/or the engine does not crank or cranks but will not start, refer to the troubleshooting information below.
F. Open the hood.
G. Sitting in driver’s seat, be prepared to press the brake pedal, activate the start function. The system should chirp the horn two (2) times and abort the start sequence.
H. Close the hood.
I. Place ignition key in the ignition cylinder.
J. Again, Sitting in driver’s seat, be prepared to press the brake pedal and activate a start sequence. The system should chirp the horn one (1) time pause four seconds, then chirp the horn two (2) times and abort the start
sequence.
In steps G and J above, the engine MUST NOT start! If the system starts the engine in either steps G or J, check your hood tilt switch
installation and key-in-sense connection.

Troubleshooting steps:
A. If the Securilock interface fails to program (theft light flashing), check the following:
When programming the Securilock Interface timing is important, make sure that you:
1. Turn the ignition on with the second key within 5 seconds of the theft light going out on the first key;
2. Engage the remote start within 5 seconds of the theft going out on the second key;
3. Remove the second ignition key before engaging the remote starter.

NOTE: If a third (or more) PATS ignition key has been programmed to the vehicle ussing either the Ford NGS or IDS programmers, the “Add
Key” mode described in the installation manual may have been disabled. If this is the case, use the NGS or IDS programmer to either reenable the “add key” mode or program the Securilock Interface kit following the NGS or IDS procedure in the vehicle service manual for
adding a new PATS key.

B. If the theft light is solid and engine cranks but will not start:
Check all Ignition (Hot through run and crank circuits) and Heater (Run circuits). Make sure that the correct outputs from the PowerCode module are connected to the correct vehicle circuits. Reversing the heater and ignition circuits from the PowerCode system will not permanently damage the vehicle but may cause the remote start function to not work and/or set a PCM error codes (which will cause the check engine light to stay on). If the check engine light stays on, use the NGS or WDS testers to identify which fault code has been set. The fault code will help identify which circuit is not properly connected

 

[jdc28va]

Leave a key in the ignition (not turned on), and see if the remote start starts the vehicle. That will tell you for sure if it's a bypass module issue or not.

ETA: If you confirm it is in fact the bypass module, it should be easy to replace. I've installed two Code Alarm remote starters, one in my 2006 Ex and one in my wife's 2010 Escape. I believe Ford was using Code Alarm remote starts back in 2006, and maybe still is.

Both bypass modules I've installed were little black plastic boxes, maybe 1/2 the size of a cigarette carton. Usually they have a two-wire connector to the main remote start module, and then another two wire connection that goes up your steering column and is attached to a ring that is glued right around your ignition cylinder.

 

[mlucas]

Hello Everyone,

Thank you for the great information. The problem ended up being the bypass module. I replaced it and that solved the problem. No more cold seats in the morning!

You have a great community here. Thanks for the quick replies and help.

Michael

 

[Fatdaddy]

speaking of I got a quote from a audio place of $500 to install in my 06..
Found out Best Buy will do it for total $250.00 plus you have to buy a extra key.
find a lock smith.. his price was $60.. Dealer wanted $150 to make a key..
Best thing for your engine plus keeps my wife going to work getting a warm car.
speaking of if the heater would warm up... Dont seem to really get warm untill you get moving..

 

[A Wise Guy]

speaking of I got a quote from a audio place of $500 to install in my 06..
Found out Best Buy will do it for total $250.00 plus you have to buy a extra key.
find a lock smith.. his price was $60.. Dealer wanted $150 to make a key..
Best thing for your engine plus keeps my wife going to work getting a warm car.
speaking of if the heater would warm up... Dont seem to really get warm untill you get moving..

What were they quoting for $500?

Do not let anybody bury a key under your dash. They should be using a bypass module which programs just like a key. You will need two keys to do the programming and they will both be given back to you if installed properly.

What is best buy going to ruin for $250?

 

[Fatdaddy]

I had given the Audio place $300 down payment. Then went back to ask for refund when I found the Best Buy deal.. I talking with the Audio guy he said we will do for the same price.. I had already bought the Best Buy but no installed yet...
I let the audio guy do my daughters Infinity and Best Buy do my wife's the same unit..
Best Buy did it 2 hours quicker when you start it runs for 10 min before shutting off.
Audio runs 5 min and cuts off... I never knew Best Buy had a shop just like Circuit City use to have in the back.. Just get the BASIC one.. no door locks, pop the trunk, extras like that.. Go the Best buy and read the reviews on each model..
That is what keeps my wife going to work in the cold mornings.. A warm car her heated seats, plus good for the engine... Also I did go to the Dealer about one, he is the one
told me you need to go to somebody who does them alot.. We always have trouble with them plus we charge $650 plus a key...

 

[Ian Bungart]

hey guys, similar problem here, I have a 2007 ford explorer Eddie Bauer, this has the Power code (ford) remote start installed from day one on the car, but when I purchased the car with 75,000 miles on it the dealer did not even know the car had a remote start so WIN on that part now the bad, the car will always try to start majority of the time it starts on the first try, however it does not some times and everything is on the headlights heater ETC,.. as if it did start and then it sets like this until the set timer makes the car shut off or I turn the key to start it. im trying to reprogram the remote to have the RETRY mode on. But I do not have the manual to the remote start system itself. and I cannot for the life of me find any information on the remote start installed in my truck. if any of you have the manual or know where to find it I would really appreciate it! thanks again!