Differential cover question

[96eb96]

I'm not looking for beauty, but mine rusted out badly and has to be replaced. I should have done it two years ago when I had it apart, didn't think it would leak .

Napa & Advance sell a Dorman 697-702 for around $18, I'm wondering if there is a compelling reason here to go stock, I would rather use the extra money to buy synthetic fluid(the ford one is like 30 something). I know dorman isn't the best but what can go wrong with a piece of stamped steel???

Do they provide reinforcement for the differential? I figure 99% of shops would probably replace it with that anyway.

I plan on painting it so it shouldnt rust.

 

[ericautopart]

Any diff cover is fine. Mine is aluminum. I don't know what synthetic fluid has to do w/ it though?

 

[96eb96]

Any diff cover is fine. Mine is aluminum. I don't know what synthetic fluid has to do w/ it though?

Thanks!
I meant in stead of spending an extra $15 for the Ford one I can use the money to buy synth fluid.

 

[my pos mounty]

A diff cover is a diff cover. Some want ones all pretty'd up and powdercoated, aluminum, and whatnot. To me thats like putting lipstick on a gorilla, its still a gorilla. I say who cares? (Note: unless I run you over, you will never see my diff cover anyway) Any cover that fits is good enough. It does not add any rigidity whatsoever. The "cheap" dorman cover would be tops of my list. As for rust? It would take a long time to rust thru a new cover

 

[Turdle]

Cean it well, then clean it well,
Then wash it with dawn detergent and hot as possible water, let it dry and sand it. Then wipe it with lacquer thinner. Paint it with engine enamel inside and out-include the seal area. hang it by the smallest wire possible. Once dry, hang from another hole and shoot the bare wire mark.


When bolting it back on use washers so the bolts do not chip into the paint. These things should keep it rust free longer.

 

[96eb96]

A diff cover is a diff cover. Some want ones all pretty'd up and powdercoated, aluminum, and whatnot. To me thats like putting lipstick on a gorilla, its still a gorilla. I say who cares? (Note: unless I run you over, you will never see my diff cover anyway) Any cover that fits is good enough. It does not add any rigidity whatsoever. The "cheap" dorman cover would be tops of my list. As for rust? It would take a long time to rust thru a new cover

Exactly, I'm not looking to spend any extra on a 15yo truck! Something nice or polished down there would look weird and out of place with all the rust. Probably not worth to paint either, doubt I will have it by the time it rusts out again.

Is it a good idea to suck out the fluid and reuse? Its two years old and synth fluid costs a fortune! My concern only is moisture entry. The leak is very tiny but covered 1/2 of the cover.

 

[96eb96]

Cean it well, then clean it well,
Then wash it with dawn detergent and hot as possible water, let it dry and sand it. Then wipe it with lacquer thinner. Paint it with engine enamel inside and out-include the seal area. hang it by the smallest wire possible. Once dry, hang from another hole and shoot the bare wire mark.


When bolting it back on use washers so the bolts do not chip into the paint. These things should keep it rust free longer.

What about a rubdown with a tube of anti sieze? Again not looking for beauty!

BTW I found out it has a phosphate coating.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Some models have fiberglass covers from the factory. They don't rust, but they could easily get damaged. Metal covers might show small rust spots, but it's only surface rust on the chrome finish. This link has covers for various models: http://yourcovers.com/differential_covers.html

 

[my pos mounty]

I wouldn't paint the sealing surface, nor would I paint the interior. Suppose the oils attack the spraypaint? Then you got paint chips (or chemical additives from the paint) floating around your differential.
I would follow Turdles' instructions beyond that though. Clean that sucker good, cover the sealing surface and the interior, then spray away. I have even gone as far as to "bake" the enamel on using a toaster oven set to 500 degrees or so for about 30 minutes when I painted a part I had custom machined for my motorcycle. I think I did 2 coats that way IIRC. That thing hasn't shown a bit of wear/scratch on it in the 10 years since.

 

[96eb96]

I wouldn't paint the sealing surface, nor would I paint the interior. Suppose the oils attack the spraypaint? Then you got paint chips (or chemical additives from the paint) floating around your differential.
I would follow Turdles' instructions beyond that though. Clean that sucker good, cover the sealing surface and the interior, then spray away. I have even gone as far as to "bake" the enamel on using a toaster oven set to 500 degrees or so for about 30 minutes when I painted a part I had custom machined for my motorcycle. I think I did 2 coats that way IIRC. That thing hasn't shown a bit of wear/scratch on it in the 10 years since.

Yeah, that is a good idea. I see how fast unpainted stuff rusts here. A 2 yo Ford trans pan on another car is definately starting to show rust.

Thanks guys for all the ideas!

 

[Turdle]

I wouldn't paint the sealing surface, nor would I paint the interior. Suppose the oils attack the spraypaint? Then you got paint chips (or chemical additives from the paint) floating around your differential.
I would follow Turdles' instructions beyond that though. Clean that sucker good, cover the sealing surface and the interior, then spray away. I have even gone as far as to "bake" the enamel on using a toaster oven set to 500 degrees or so for about 30 minutes when I painted a part I had custom machined for my motorcycle. I think I did 2 coats that way IIRC. That thing hasn't shown a bit of wear/scratch on it in the 10 years since.

Oil should not hurt engine enamel. or powdercoat. IFthe surface is prepared well.

If you leave a surface bare, it will rust.

 

[my pos mounty]

Not trying to be combative, but it isn't going to rust on the inside anyway. Its going to be bathed in oil everytime he drives the truck. If the sealing surface is properly cleaned and has sealent applied, that isn't going to rust either. The exposed bare exterior however would rust, as any exposed bare metal will.

 

[Turdle]

Not trying to be combative, but it isn't going to rust on the inside anyway. Its going to be bathed in oil everytime he drives the truck. If the sealing surface is properly cleaned and has sealent applied, that isn't going to rust either. The exposed bare exterior however would rust, as any exposed bare metal will.

I understand your concern. However in my experience moisture-( corrosion) will find the place where the paint ends.
Then it will migrate underneath the coating, and be a huge problem before it is seen.

 

[Electrohacker]

i just pulled a dana 44 out of the junk yard and puul the 1985 cover off, no rust, no paint.

on the inside anyway... the outside was wire wheeled and painted HEAVY

 

[ericautopart]

Whoa..it's just a cover! I stole my aluminum off a core I got in..that's the only reason I'm so fancy.

 

[thumper477]

I painted the new dorman cover for my ex with plasticote rattle can truck bed liner paint.I also used the spray liner paint on the outside of a gas tank I put in an antique car 4 years ago.The stuff still looks new and no signs of rust or peeling.