Solved Differential Swap

[Mbrooks420]

interesting! do they use the normal pads to hold you or are they like these with the tiny drum?

Most cars utilize the regular pads. It’s uncommon for the disc/drum setup.

 

[Mbrooks420]

I’ve currently got zero guts in my parking brake. If there’s an emergency and you stand on that flimsy thing, it’s going to shred to pieces and not stop you. It’s barely a good enough to keep it from rolling.

 

[ThatOneGuy99]

I’ve currently got zero guts in my parking brake. If there’s an emergency and you stand on that flimsy thing, it’s going to shred to pieces and not stop you. It’s barely a good enough to keep it from rolling.

That's how mine was before I mutilated it, I drove around the parking lot with it on before I noticed the little light on the dashboard

 

[Fix4Dirt]

I’ve currently got zero guts in my parking brake. If there’s an emergency and you stand on that flimsy thing, it’s going to shred to pieces and not stop you. It’s barely a good enough to keep it from rolling.

huh after i replaced mine and adjusted etc it holds it quite decently imo. it will take a bit to stop but i have a feeling i could stop myself if need be

 

[CDW6212R]

The parking brake cables need to be moving well, not bound up from lack of use etc. The parking brake pads are simple and small, but they do have to be adjusted very very tight to do much good.

 

[ThatOneGuy99]

On another note does anybody know if it's possible to do the oil pan gasket on an OHV with the front diff? I peeked at it and couldn't tell if the differential or steering rack was in the way more or if both are.

 

[Fix4Dirt]

On another note does anybody know if it's possible to do the oil pan gasket on an OHV with the front diff? I peeked at it and couldn't tell if the differential or steering rack was in the way more or if both are.

afaik and i aint no ohv guru but i think the ohv had a 1 piece pan, not 2 piece like the sohc, and i think the motor has to be lifted just a smidge to get it off to my knowledge. not 100% sure though dont own an ohv

 

[ThatOneGuy99]

afaik and i aint no ohv guru but i think the ohv had a 1 piece pan, not 2 piece like the sohc, and i think the motor has to be lifted just a smidge to get it off to my knowledge. not 100% sure though dont own an ohv

I was staring at it and couldn't really tell, looks like I may be able to clear everything with the front diff out, but I'll wait until I can pull it because I gotta do the rear main and oil pump too.

On another another note, does anyone know how hard it is to do the passenger side seal and bearing on the intermediate shaft? From what I can tell the shaft either splines into the diff or has a clip but I'm not 100% sure.

 

[Fix4Dirt]

I was staring at it and couldn't really tell, looks like I may be able to clear everything with the front diff out, but I'll wait until I can pull it because I gotta do the rear main and oil pump too.

On another another note, does anyone know how hard it is to do the passenger side seal and bearing on the intermediate shaft? From what I can tell the shaft either splines into the diff or has a clip but I'm not 100% sure.

huh interesting ok thought ta needed the engine lifted a tad but let me knownhownit goes

 

[C420sailor]

I’ve only done seals on the front axle. The bearings generally last a stupid long time as they aren’t weight bearing, and most trucks are rarely in 4x4…as long as you keep oil in it.

I’d imagine the front bearings are replaced much like the rears, and those are pretty straight forward with the right tools (I use a slide hammer puller). Don’t quote me, though.

The one gotcha is this. If you have a leak and you just change the seal, it likely won’t hold for long unless the CV is also fairly new. An old CV with a groove worn in it will leak rapidly. I learned that lesson the hard way.

 

[ThatOneGuy99]

I’ve only done seals on the front axle. The bearings generally last a stupid long time as they aren’t weight bearing, and most trucks are rarely in 4x4…as long as you keep oil in it.

I’d imagine the front bearings are replaced much like the rears, and those are pretty straight forward with the right tools (I use a slide hammer puller). Don’t quote me, though.

The one gotcha is this. If you have a leak and you just change the seal, it likely won’t hold for long unless the CV is also fairly new. An old CV with a groove worn in it will leak rapidly. I learned that lesson the hard way.

Got it's we'll check the CVs when we pull them, I noticed the rear passenger side seal is leaking so I've got new bearings and seals on both sides, I'm gonna do the front left oil seal just because it's super easy and right there but I don't want to touch the right side unless I have to

 

[CDW6212R]

Take plenty of care with the front axle seals, those are hard to install without a special sized object that matches the diameter well. The rears are easy compared to the fronts.

 

[ThatOneGuy99]

Take plenty of care with the front axle seals, those are hard to install without a special sized object that matches the diameter well. The rears are easy compared to the fronts.

Yeah because the fronts have that have that lip that goes out onto the CV axle right?

 

[C420sailor]

Exactly, you’ll crush that with a normal seal driver

I used a piece of pipe that fit

 

[CDW6212R]

Yes, I had a tough(long) time finding something to fit the right front axle seal. Those are different left and right, two different sizes. I couldn't find anything at home that fit well, and I ended up at Home Depot and bought a basic thermos which had an opening that fit the right seal okay. It cost about $15, but that was better than going to some parts store and ending up with a large seal driver kit to borrow and bring back.

Installing those front seals is much harder in the truck, because there is little room to get at them. Out on the ground it's not that hard to install them. In the truck there is very limited room to access it.

 

[ThatOneGuy99]

I've got a normal seal/bearing install set, guess I'll try to find something

 

[ThatOneGuy99]

Does anybody know 100% what oil is best for these? I picked up 75-140 royal purple for the rear and 80-90 GL-5 masterpro (all they had in 80-90) for the front, I've seen so many people say different fluids and none of it is ever consistent

 

[Mbrooks420]

The differences come because the specs changed as the years went by. 75-140 and 80-90 will both be fine.

 

[Fix4Dirt]

Does anybody know 100% what oil is best for these? I picked up 75-140 royal purple for the rear and 80-90 GL-5 masterpro (all they had in 80-90) for the front, I've seen so many people say different fluids and none of it is ever consistent

this is what i do, and i think this what were supposed to use in my 98

rear open- 80/90
rear LS- 75/140+friction modifier
front open- 80/90

i think, brand isnt a huge concern i personally use valvoline or m1 syn, but dunno

 

[ThatOneGuy99]

this is what i do, and i think this what were supposed to use in my 98

rear open- 80/90
rear LS- 75/140+friction modifier
front open- 80/90

i think, brand isnt a huge concern i personally use valvoline or m1 syn, but dunno

Royal purple with the LS additive already added is ok right? Or should I use a separate thing of modifier? When we cracked the cover off the old one after the shop refilled it there was a greenish color to it, I haven't ever seen that before in gear oil.