Do I need to keep locking hubs? | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Do I need to keep locking hubs?

hrtattck3x

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City, State
Baytown, Texas
Year, Model & Trim Level
1994 Ford Explorer 4WD
I have a 1994 Ford Explorer 4WD, 4.0 litre engine. Recently the auto locking hub on the passenger side went out. I was wondering if I absolutely had to replace it or could I live with out the locking hubs at all. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 



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Well, if you don't want 4wd you can live without it..
 






...you could do a manual hub swap with a conversion kit...;)
 






I have a 1994 Ford Explorer 4WD, 4.0 litre engine. Recently the auto locking hub on the passenger side went out. I was wondering if I absolutely had to replace it or could I live with out the locking hubs at all. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Just to clarify things.. Although you can drive around with broken hub(s) you you still need to have a hub (manual or automatic) installed otherwise the wheel bearings would be exposed to the elements.
 






Not necessarily...if you fabricated a "dummy hub" dust cover that would slip over the wheel studs and cover everything, that would be an option. If it were me, I'd just leave them on and not run 4WD if it isn't causing any trouble in 2WD.
 






Not necessarily...if you fabricated a "dummy hub" dust cover that would slip over the wheel studs and cover everything, that would be an option. If it were me, I'd just leave them on and not run 4WD if it isn't causing any trouble in 2WD.

If a hub is broken to the point it is making noise you can take it off, remove its inner core, and reinstall the empty hub..
 






Yeah, that's true...although with that setup, it more or less turns into a dust cover.
 






Not necessarily...if you fabricated a "dummy hub" dust cover that would slip over the wheel studs and cover everything, that would be an option. If it were me, I'd just leave them on and not run 4WD if it isn't causing any trouble in 2WD.

If a hub is broken to the point it is making noise you can take it off, remove its inner core, and reinstall the empty hub..

Yeah, that's true...although with that setup, it more or less turns into a dust cover.

Exactly.. IMO it wouldn't be worth the time or effort to fabricate a custom dust cover when your HUB is already doing that job (just pull the snap ring at the bottom of the hub, yank out the inner splines and your done).
 






another question about locking hubs.....

mine do not work either..the hubs them self look fine all gears are intact.. i have a feeling it has to do with the electrical all fuses are good when i press the button for locking hubs and low range nothing at all happens any ideas?
 






another question about locking hubs.....

mine do not work either..the hubs them self look fine all gears are intact.. i have a feeling it has to do with the electrical all fuses are good when i press the button for locking hubs and low range nothing at all happens any ideas?
your shift motor is probably shot.
 












another question about locking hubs.....

mine do not work either..the hubs them self look fine all gears are intact.. i have a feeling it has to do with the electrical all fuses are good when i press the button for locking hubs and low range nothing at all happens any ideas?

There is No button for locking hubs.. The 4x4 button on the dash is connected to a computer in the rear hatch area. Its job is to energize the electronic shift motor and shift the T-case from 4x2 to 4x4. All this is doing is making the front and rear drive shafts rotate at the same speed. As mentioned by e39dream your shift motor is the most likely culprit.. See the thread in his link and follow it to the shift motor repair (in most cases its a quick 1hr fix costing a few $). HUB are components at the wheels that physically connect the stub axle shafts to the wheels.
 






So, I hate to thread-jack, but speaking of transfer case shift motors, I’ve got a little situation. I thought originally that I had a bad shift motor, but when I finally got around to poking around under my ‘91 Explorer, I realized that I’m not actually getting power to the motor at all. The fuse is good, so it’s something in the wiring. It’s a broad question, but where could the problem be in the wiring?

Also speaking of hubs, what type/size of tool is required to disassemble the hubs? I’m replacing the front rotors and bearings and realized I don’t know exactly what’s required.
 






Check out the sticky FAQ thread
Brake job diary Lots of good info and pics.

The shift motor will only get power via the 4x4 computer when it receives dash button input. The easiest thing to do would be to turn on the truck and have someone listen in the rear hatch area for any relays clicking.. If you hear em then you shift motor is the likely culprit..
 






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