Done trying to change the Stock HU

[JCIS]

I definitively was not able to install an aftermarket stereo, so I'm done with that.

However I still want to have a CD player on my X.
What can I do?
What are the choices available?

Any help will be highly appreciated.

JCIS

 

[410Fortune]

well you pull the stock head unit out, install a wiring clip and dash adapter, then press in your ned CD head unit.

What happened that discouraged you?

 

[JCIS]

the X has the JBL/Premium system, and I was not able to get a connector that will bypass the AMP.
I checked every site (SCOSCHE, METRA, PAC-AUDIO) and they all agreed, every speaker has to be rewire, and I will loose the AMP and Subwoofer plus the extra charge for doing so.

That seems to me like too much, I just wanted to listen CD's instead of cassettes.

What do you think?

 

[ExplorerSportNu]

OH MY LORD did that suck, I have that jbl crap on mine as well and it was a FREAKING nightmare to put an a/f headunit and replace the stocker, it took me and two other speaker installers to get it too work and it still has problems, they ended up re-wiring everything in the amp area in the rear and now occasionally it will totally shut off for no reason and sometimes the music will completely stop and all I have is the subs in the back alright im done - Gd Lck

 

[410Fortune]

ahhhh all new system then
the stock system is not THAT complicated, you jsut have to provide power and high level signal to the factory amp for the sub to remain.

You can wire the other 4 door speakers right from behind the head unit.

But I hear ya, it can be a nightmare.
I say get an all new system

 

[96limitedX]

if you have the JBL system you should have the 6 disk player in the console.

 

[Creager]

the X has the JBL/Premium system, and I was not able to get a connector that will bypass the AMP.
I checked every site (SCOSCHE, METRA, PAC-AUDIO) and they all agreed, every speaker has to be rewire, and I will loose the AMP and Subwoofer plus the extra charge for doing so.

That seems to me like too much, I just wanted to listen CD's instead of cassettes.

What do you think?

i think you should do it. It's not going to take longer then a couple hours. Besides the amp in your aftermarket head unit is going to be stronger then the stand-alone stock amps. You shouldnt suffer in sound. I dont know JBL in particular but make sure of the Ohm load.

Most aftermarket headunits run at 8ohm. You want to make sure your JBL speakers match that. For example. Most factory Bose systems are run at 2ohm. People unknowningly put an aftermarket headunit on and think its done. Within weeks there speakers are degraded to ****. Thats probably why your are going to have to bypass your stock amp.

 

[suave6565]

this is the type of crap that i was talking about!!!
im thinking of doing the same...but i hear so much problems with the jbls. i've heard of bypass adapters rear controlers...im really afraid of changing the radio. lets see who has luck in changing their stock radio.

 

[Saleen_SR71]

this is the type of crap that i was talking about!!!
im thinking of doing the same...but i hear so much problems with the jbls. i've heard of bypass adapters rear controlers...im really afraid of changing the radio. lets see who has luck in changing their stock radio.

i would of had luck (not sure if the sub would of still worked) but the shop i went to told me i "had" to run new wires for the door speakers.

autozone should sell a ford premium stereo kit

creager, my stock JBL doors run perfectly wired in 4 ohms, i havent changed them out because they (the fronts for sure not so sure as for the rears) sound pretty good. ive been running it like this for over a year at very high volumes at approx 75 watts (not sure if its rms or max) to them

not sure if any of that info will help you, but its there

 

[ntrpriz]

I believe that you can get a plug in adapter from crutchfield that will bypass the factory amp in a premium system. Its just plug and go.

 

[Saleen_SR71]

I believe that you can get a plug in adapter from crutchfield that will bypass the factory amp in a premium system. Its just plug and go.

most stereo shops or even some automotive shops sell the ford premium kit that has the amp bypass wire in it, you just unplug the plugs that go in to the amp (i think one is on the top the other is on the bottom) and it will bypass it.

*edit*
heres the one i found on sound domain
http://www.sounddomain.com/item/SCOFD13B
not sure if its a plug end and a wired end, or both plug ends, but by the looks of it, its a wired end and a plug end....
one problem with online retailers, they rarely show an actual photo of what you get and how it looks

 

[CDW6212R]

I am not familier with those early 2nd gen. stereos, but I have owned several Mark VII's.

It sounds like those Explorers have similar systems. In the Mark VII's, there are no speaker wires going from the HU to the speakers. There are a couple dozen wires going to an amp under the parcel shelf. To bypass that kind of system, new wires have to be run to the speakers. To bypass that kind of system amplifier, new wires have to be run from the HU speaker outputs.

It can be simple, by running speaker wires directly from the HU to the speakers. Or you might choose to add amps, and/or more wiring(at the HU) for the subwoofer.

For this thread author JCIS, it sounds like he ought to buy four new aftermarket speakers(they come with wires), adapters for the aftermarket HU that he has, and wire it in. This will be labor in wiring the HU at the dash(required for any HU), and routing the speaker wires. He will have his CD player, and no subwoofer. Disconnect the subwoofer amplifier, or remove it, if you like. Good luck,
Don

 

[pj8847]

I'm not sure why people have such a hard time changing out the factory premium H/U for an aftermarket one. My '95 had the premium system ( JBL ) and I had no problems installing any of it, AND i'm still using the factory amp, along with my subs and their amp as well. I didn't have to, but I decided to leave it in and it sounds fine. Bypassing the factory amp is as simple as buying the "adapter" ( which is only 2 plugs that jump the F/amps input plug to it's output plug ) online or at a local best buy/circuit city. ( cost is negligable at $15-$25 )

The wiring behind the factory H/U can be a pain to figure out, but with a small amount of time invested in finding the "color codes", it is a simple process. Or of course, you could buy the appropriate "adapters", again, online or locally, so as to not cut into the plugs.( which I don't see what the problem is, if done right, the plugs could be saved and and put back in place at a later time if needed. just cut them with at least 1 1/2" of wire on the plug side, and keep them plugged into the factory radio when you store it away.)

I know the argument of not cutting the wires...voiding warranty etc...on a new vehicle, its a relevant argument, and I would go the adapter route first, if available, but on a vehicle that has a few years on it already? When is the last time anyone has traded in or sold a car and they pulled the radio to see if anyone had an aftermarket system installed?

To bad those that are having problems don't live near me, or I'd be willing to lend a hand at getting their system installed, without headaches...

 

[410Fortune]

Right, I first ran into this junk about 7 years ago when I went to install a deck and a sub/amp combo in a then newer BMW 3 series convertible.

The BMW had the entire systems power amp behind the back seat, also had a box that basically was a crossover network. Well 3 days later it was done. I ended up using capacitors and bass coils to build new low/mid/high simple crossovers for the front and rear low/mid/high stock speakers, then wiring everything from the new deck to where the stock amp used to be so I ccould access the stock speaker wiring, then added on the new sub and amp. It was a PITA, but by no means impossible or really all that difficult.
The key is the wiring diagram/color chart for the stock system, once you have that you are golden and you can bypass whatever you want, run wires to where they are in the stock system instead of trying to fish through the doors.

 

[davidmmm69]

i have the same thing and when i chaned everything last year this is what i used..
http://www.cardomain.com/shoplist~t~Car+Stereo+Wiring+Harnesses

this is part of what i bought cause i had the same problem i might have one extra one,
Greetings from CarDomain!

Your order shipped today via FedEx 2 Day Express. This shipment includes the following items:

Order ID: JLP040712G, placed on 07/12/2004
-----------------------------*-----*------------*--------*------------
Item | Qty | Price Each | Amount | Status
-----------------------------*-----*------------*--------*------------
Audiovox FMM100A | 1 | $29.95 | $29.95 | not shipped
Power Acoustik ANT-1 Antenna | 1 | $18.95 | $18.95 | not shipped
Scosche FD02 | 1 | $6.95 | $6.95 | not shipped
Scosche FD1330 | 1 | $6.95 | $6.95 | not shipped
Scosche FD13 | 1 | $6.95 | $6.95 | not shipped
Scosche FDAR | 1 | $4.95 | $4.95 | not shipped
Scosche FDK10 | 1 | $11.95 | $11.95 | not shipped
-----------------------------*-----*------------*--------*------------

Subtotal: $86.65
Shipping: $21.95
Sales Tax: $0.00
Total: $108.60

also from Parts Express
- 725 Pleasant Valley
- Springboro, Oh, 45066
- Phone: 800-338-0531, Fax: 937-743-1677
http://www.partsexpress.com/index.cfm?raid=20&rak=DOTD

i bought all this at the same time. as i like having alot of extra stuff around..

Qty PartNumber Product Price ExtPrice
2 070-660 WATERPROOF AGU FUSE HOLDER $4.69 $9.38
5 070-675 ATC IN-LINE FUSEHOLDER 10 GA $1.10 $5.50
1 070-922 GOLD AGU FUSE 40A 5 PCS $1.88 $1.88
4 071-580 LITTELFUSE ADD-A-CIRCUIT FUSEHOLD $6.95 $27.80
2 079-042 PIONEER DUAL 10 GA. AMPLIFIER WIR $4.99 $9.98
25 100-174 8 GA BLACK POWER WIRE 1' $0.49 $12.25
25 100-178 8 GA RED POWER WIRE 1' $0.49 $12.25
1 500-001 FREE RELAY WIRING DIAGRAM $0.00 $0.00
1 CATALOG FREE CATALOG $0.00 $0.00
4 330-077 12VDC AUTOMOTIVE RELAY SPDT 40A $1.79 $7.16
1 265-035 AMPLIFIER INSTALLATION KIT 8 GA. $17.50 $17.50
4 339-075 12VDC 5-PIN RELAY SOCKET $1.50 $6.00
1 UPS-Second Day Air $34.20 $34.20


TOTAL: $143.90



might want to check out those web sites...

 

[XLoudFN97X]

JCS I dont even know if youre still reading this but I figured I'd add this for the benefit of the forum. Adapters are available for even your situation, and suave's, and SportNu's. Check out www.davidnavone.com in the "adapters" section for the N-684 and N-684V (variable output). These products are genuinely crafted to provide full quality without sacrificing the amp and having to rewire the speakers. It's designed to adapt the speaker out on you aftermarket HU down to a signal that the factory amp can amplify. I remembered I was going to get one but decided on upgrading the speakers and amp too. Its an affordable quality part and the small company is very knowledgeable and VERY easy to get a hold of (just call the number on their site, someone alive usually picks up). You also need to check if your tuner is in the rear of the truck as it was in some models with the EQ presets (jazz, rock, etc.). Is there an antenna cord (thick black one, silver tip) plugged into the back of your stock HU? If not, you'll need to re-run the antenna cable to the dash and kiss the antenna's auto up/down feature goodbye.

 

[CDW6212R]

Good info, thanks.
Don

 

[V8BoatBuilder]

The JBL speakers are surprisingly nice. I ran new wires from the stock speakers to my Pioneer head unit, and it sounds great!