koda2000
Explorer Addict
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My review of the Dorman 604-201 Electronic Automatic Temperature Control (EATC) blend door actuator as installed in my '01 Eddie Bauer a few days ago.
Let me begin by saying I'm not a big fan of Dorman products, but for the price of $17.07 (less using some points on my Amazon credit card and free Amazon Prime shipping my delivered cost was $3.60) I figured I'd give it a shot.
The Dorman unit comes with a snap on plastic base attached. I assume this is because it fits other vehicles. This base must be removed for use in the Gen II Explorers/Mountaineers. This is easily accomplished by squeezing the snaps with a pair of pliers while gently prying the base off. Once the base is removed a visual comparison to the OE Ford unit indicates that the Dorman unit should fit.
With the actuator not yet installed, I plugged my blend door actuator electrical connector into Dorman unit and tried running my temp setting UP and DOWN to see if I could see/hear the actuator move. It did not. It turned out that I had to reset the EATC control module by running the EATC self-test (ignition key ON, EATC control panel set to OFF, press and release OFF and FLOOR buttons on the EATC control panel at the same time and w/in 2 seconds press the AUTOMATIC button). You should see the display start a spinning circle and w/in 30 seconds you should either see "888" indicating all good, or one or more error codes. I initially received 3 error codes "024" "025" and "052". I did not bother to look these up, but I know the "024" and "025" codes are blend door actuator related. I then reconnected the Dorman actuator and ran the test again. This time I saw and heard the actuator move and got the "888" code. This may have happened to me because I removed my stripped OE actuator and had wired by blend door open for heat (and closed for A/C) about a year ago.
Once I had the Dorman actuator working I had to reinstall the actuator on top of the heater box connected to the blend door's shaft. Doing this proved difficult as the Dorman actuator-to-blend door shaft tolerance seems to be slightly tighter than the OE Ford actuator, plus just getting the actuator shaft and blend door's shaft to line up was challenging. Eventually I was able to get things lined up and was able to push the two together with some wiggling.
Next came installing the 2 outside screws (of the 3) that hold the actuator in place. This should have been easy to do, but apparently the holes in the Dorman actuator housing were slightly off. This made starting the 2 front screws difficult, but I was eventually able to get them started and snugged down using an open end wrench (5/16" IIRC). There was not enough room to use my 1/4" ratchet because I could not twist the screws in with my figures at all.
FYI - There was no way I was going to waste my time with the remaining 3rd screw that goes on the rear of the actuator. I deem it unnecessary and it's a major PITA to put in. More than likely you end up dropping the screw and it will then be lost forever.
I drove my EB yesterday and the Dorman actuator is working well. Hopefully it will continue to do so. Do I recommend it? Yes, but only because it is much less expensive than the Ford unit (assuming you can find one) which is typically around $60. Just be prepared for dealing with the fitment issues. Other's here report using the Dorman actuator for an extended period of time w/out any problems.
I hope this helps someone.
Edit:
I had previously said the EATC self diagnostic test required pressing OFF, FLOOR and then DEFROST. I just found out this was incorrect. It's OFF & FLOOR and then the AUTOMATIC button. Sorry if this confused anyone. It just confused me while trying to install a rebuilt OE blend door actuator in our '00 Mountaineer.
Let me begin by saying I'm not a big fan of Dorman products, but for the price of $17.07 (less using some points on my Amazon credit card and free Amazon Prime shipping my delivered cost was $3.60) I figured I'd give it a shot.
The Dorman unit comes with a snap on plastic base attached. I assume this is because it fits other vehicles. This base must be removed for use in the Gen II Explorers/Mountaineers. This is easily accomplished by squeezing the snaps with a pair of pliers while gently prying the base off. Once the base is removed a visual comparison to the OE Ford unit indicates that the Dorman unit should fit.
With the actuator not yet installed, I plugged my blend door actuator electrical connector into Dorman unit and tried running my temp setting UP and DOWN to see if I could see/hear the actuator move. It did not. It turned out that I had to reset the EATC control module by running the EATC self-test (ignition key ON, EATC control panel set to OFF, press and release OFF and FLOOR buttons on the EATC control panel at the same time and w/in 2 seconds press the AUTOMATIC button). You should see the display start a spinning circle and w/in 30 seconds you should either see "888" indicating all good, or one or more error codes. I initially received 3 error codes "024" "025" and "052". I did not bother to look these up, but I know the "024" and "025" codes are blend door actuator related. I then reconnected the Dorman actuator and ran the test again. This time I saw and heard the actuator move and got the "888" code. This may have happened to me because I removed my stripped OE actuator and had wired by blend door open for heat (and closed for A/C) about a year ago.
Once I had the Dorman actuator working I had to reinstall the actuator on top of the heater box connected to the blend door's shaft. Doing this proved difficult as the Dorman actuator-to-blend door shaft tolerance seems to be slightly tighter than the OE Ford actuator, plus just getting the actuator shaft and blend door's shaft to line up was challenging. Eventually I was able to get things lined up and was able to push the two together with some wiggling.
Next came installing the 2 outside screws (of the 3) that hold the actuator in place. This should have been easy to do, but apparently the holes in the Dorman actuator housing were slightly off. This made starting the 2 front screws difficult, but I was eventually able to get them started and snugged down using an open end wrench (5/16" IIRC). There was not enough room to use my 1/4" ratchet because I could not twist the screws in with my figures at all.
FYI - There was no way I was going to waste my time with the remaining 3rd screw that goes on the rear of the actuator. I deem it unnecessary and it's a major PITA to put in. More than likely you end up dropping the screw and it will then be lost forever.
I drove my EB yesterday and the Dorman actuator is working well. Hopefully it will continue to do so. Do I recommend it? Yes, but only because it is much less expensive than the Ford unit (assuming you can find one) which is typically around $60. Just be prepared for dealing with the fitment issues. Other's here report using the Dorman actuator for an extended period of time w/out any problems.
I hope this helps someone.
Edit:
I had previously said the EATC self diagnostic test required pressing OFF, FLOOR and then DEFROST. I just found out this was incorrect. It's OFF & FLOOR and then the AUTOMATIC button. Sorry if this confused anyone. It just confused me while trying to install a rebuilt OE blend door actuator in our '00 Mountaineer.
