Driver sd. wheel bearing loose again! Help

[Dannyboy]

OK so I've learned how to and not to pack and put bearings on. In July just before heading to Colorado I roached a wheelbearing on my drivers side and ruined a spindle(race welded to it) I just swapped in cause earlier one came loose and stripped the threads away in May. So today I'm pulling off yet another blown hub(like the sixth one) and I realize that again on my drivers side the wheel bearing is loose to the point that it has cupped the retaining washer and I can't get that off and it appears that I've worn the threads off this spindle too. I believe this install kit is Milemarkers, is this been discussed before, I know it wasn't with search featureLOL,
I have only driven about 2800 miles tops since I torqued the suckers down before heading to Colorado and this was the first time since I have wheeled . Is there something in common with this coming loose and hubs blowing, because that happens at low speeds when applying torque, this time reversing up a hill, but never from spinning the tires or wheel hopping. I've already had Warn tell me they don't make a stronger lockout so they'll be happy to replace them if it's alright with me to exchange them out. Thats cool and all but how can often should I check that dang drivers side outer bearing spindle nut? I got spindle for $45 at yard, too bad it's 45 min away and I was there yesterday buying rear quarter glass that I also broke out as a result of limping off trail and slipping off a rock into a tree
Oh yeah anyone else blown 5 manual hubs in 6 months?

 

[Dannyboy]

35's are big tires, however lots of guys run them on the Dana 35, is it just a high maintenece thing?
And yes I am really considering the Dana 44 now more than ever before, just too bad I spent my money of lift, locker, gears, install kits, and wheels for something that isn't holding up for now.
Hmmm, Dana 44 outers, I've heard of that, is it easy?

 

[Carl D.]

I replaced my hubs with Milemarker when the Auto hubs went out. Had nothing but trouble with milemarker, then switched to Warn and have not had any troulbe since. Don't know if this is common or not, but it worked for me.

 

[94EBexplorer]

danny no joke.... i re tourque my spindel nuts 2 times a month... i check em. 35's will work em loose.... what does it is the bearings are to close together on the 35 opposed to the 44.... so the 35 would look like this ( each line being a bearing) | | and the 44 like this | | ...
wider offset wheel and bigger tires put this stuff on a bind... thus causing your spindels to roast.... but the hubs are blowing probley due to the locked front with the power to both wheels.... maybe cause the wheel with the loose nuts is moving while tourque is being applied to it...

 

[94EBexplorer]

Originally posted by 94EBexplorer
danny no joke.... i re tourque my spindel nuts 2 times a month... i check em. 35's will work em loose.... what does it is the bearings are to close together on the 35 opposed to the 44.... so the 35 would look like this ( each line being a bearing) | | and the 44 like this | | ...
wider offset wheel and bigger tires put this stuff on a bind... thus causing your spindels to roast.... but the hubs are blowing probley due to the locked front with the power to both wheels.... maybe cause the wheel with the loose nuts is moving while tourque is being applied to it...

 

[94EBexplorer]

wtf ? 2 posts? oh well..... but i ment the wheel bearing differance between 35 and 44 are ( || D35 ) and ( | | D44) the 35 put alot of stress on the innner bearing being on a bind... that whys its essential to get the nuts tight.

 

[jimbo74]

time for the d44 swap

 

[410Fortune]

You can go with the D44 outers, you can read about it here:

www.therangerstation.com Only drawback is you now have a different bolt patter for you front and rear wheels. Maybe able to get some D44 hubs made with the 5 on 4-1/2 bolt circle though, maybe not.

There is a way to make sure your spindle nuts never come loose again, but it;s gonna take some machine work on your part. Again you can read about it at the Rangerstation. Warn used to make a kit for this, they dont anymore so it;s a DIY thing. You have a couple of options. Keep this in mind, the D44, D35 TTB, and the Jeep Dana 35 all use the same spindle nuts.......

It;s this simple. Your 35" tires are too big for the D35 TBB wheel bearings, the bearings are too close together inside the rotor, your 35 will looosen those suckers up UNLESS you perform the fix it, then they arent going N E where... This involves a little set screw you will tighten that will lock the outer spindle nut to the inner lock washer, the little pins jusr arent enough.

I have considered the D44 TTB outer conversion for my TTB D35 too, it;s pretty simple to do, youget bigger brakes, better bearing spacing, and stronger hubs, but the bolt circle will be different, so you need new rims. Also you can get some custom axles for your rear end to match the bolt circle back there.

It;s just a matter of $$$$$.

If I were you I would try the spindle nut fix since you already have a bunch of $$$ in your rims, tires, and TTB...

There are two different fixes if I remember right the copy the Warn kit style and another Jeeper fix. Research.........

 

[Michael]

Just to echo what 94EBex... said, I have to tighten my spindle nuts about once a month, and I don't drive the truck every day. Two or three times a week at the most. With 35's it is just something that you have to get in the habit of doing.

On the blown hubs issue, something is wrong somewhere. I have the exact same front setup, EZ Locker - 4.56 - 35's - Warn Hubs, and can't break one. After 5 hubs I would begin to look for installation issues, mechanical problems (other than the hubs), etc. I wouldn't expect 5 to be production related, but could be.

 

[410Fortune]

I would guess the loose bearings have something to do with breaking the hubs............. they are both drivers side, correct?

2 or 3 times a week? Holy crap! Micheal you guys need a fix for your spindle nuts, thats ridiculous. Either that or you need to convert your lugs over to formula one style so you can yank the wheel off in two seconds....Thats just way too much work! If I was you I would be looking into the D44 outers, or at least a lock mechanism for your spindle nuts. I thought I was bad with 31's having to do it every couple of months.........

 

[Maniak]

I guess anything over 32" tires really needs to be done often.

I drive 50+ miles each day.. (5 or so on dirt/washboard) and I do mine every 2 to 3 months and they normally aren't loose (I repack the bearings since I drive on dirt so much)..

2 months is about 3000 miles (minimum)..

When I do the bearings I put the inner one a tad loose (passenger side) and then crank the outer one way past 100ft lbs..

The drivers side one I don't have to leave loose like I do the driver side..

If I don't leave the passenger side one slightly loose before I crank it down it always ends up too tight.

~Mark

 

[Dannyboy]

Great replies. As for the hubs, I once sheared the pins on the EZ locker and what I think happened is I blew a hub and kept wheeling with my one good hub and that sheered my pins in the locker. After that it was up to god to decide when the locker was working and unlocking so that had something to do with it. I then went to Colorado and wheeled a couple places around here no problem. I think maybe the loose spindle nuts but extra force on the lockout. Like I said Warn is still swapping them out for me and I sure do appreciate it but also feel it is their duty. I honestly am never really rodding on it when they have let loose.
I have my own idea. It is to drill some threaded holes in the outside of the outer spindle nut and then use a second retaining clip like the center one of the setup that will be slid on then using some allen bolts or another really small bolt fastened to the outside of the outer bolt. This way I can crank them down, then add my retaining ring on the outer and they will not be allowed to rotate off unless the little bolts break. Also FYI I only have this problem on the drivers side where the wheel spins in the direction to work the nut loose.

 

[Byrd91]

I'm sure you guys have heard this, but there has been talk about the 16 in-lbs of torque on the inner nut not being nearly enough, even for just 31s. Someone said 10 ft-lbs has worked good for them, I think they were running 35s. I did that last time I repacked, and there was slightly more drag on the rotor, if any, and I feel as though its much more secure than 16 in-lbs (slightly more than finger tight). Just something to consider.

 

[Maniak]

I'm definatly NOT running 16 inch pounds..

I turn it with my fingers.. then use a screwdriver and hammer to turn it a little farther (its in foot pounds now).. If I do inch pounds it comes loose in a few days..

~Mark

 

[410Fortune]

Thats right! If you do the spindle nuts by the book and you have larger tires you are gonna have them come loose ALOT.

There are a few tricks to getting the bearing preload and spindle nuts to hold. First crank down the inner nut to 80ft lbs or so (cant say I do mine by feel usually), then turn the rotor around a few times, then back it off to just finger tight,turn the rotor a fw times, then torque it back down to about 25-35 ft lbs. Turning the rotor after each step is critical. The lock washer then goes on and then the outer nut gets torqued down basically as hard as you possibly can.

Danny, that sounds like a good idea, just be sure whatever fastener you use doesnt interfere with the fitment of the hub. Anything that will sandwich the outer, washer, and inner spindle nut together should hold. Spindles are too damn expensive to be replacing all the time. I finally wised up and whenever I am at the junk yard I grab as many D35 or D44 spindle nuts as I can, I have a stack of those suckers now so I dont have to buy those $11 ea suckers. Here's another tip:

Ford used the D35 TTB on Rangers up until 97. This means that 97 Rangers in teh junk yards have the same spindles and since they are a 97 they usually have less miles and less wear on the spindles........I am looking for a late model Ranger with low miles for my replacement spindles right now.....my whole front endit gonna be brand new soon!!!

I got new Warn hubs, new rotors, new calipers, Timken bearings, etc on there now. I have the front pig with new Spicer 4.10's and an ARB installed, I got 3 new Spicer u joints in the box waiting to be installed and I;m gonna get some MOOG ball joints to all go in at the same time. This with some new.used spindles = me happy finally! My front D35 came out of a 92 Explorer that caught fire and I have never been able to get rid of the slight wheel bearing wobble.........I figure the spindles are worn........

 

[Dannyboy]

Just put 2 and 2 together today wheelin with a buddy who works on big military trucks. All of their big stuff has left handed threading meaning it's reverse.(even their lugnuts) so if I would pay the $100-200 bucks to have it threaded that way I'd no longer have to worry about it working itself loose, ruining spindles, and most importantly there is an unestimated value on my safety. I know it sounds cheesy but it is the way to fix the problem right and not be in a dangerous situation.

 

[410Fortune]

That may work, just dont drive in reverse too much

The real fix of course would be D44 outers with the wheel bearings spread apart further to support 35's. But your idea may work.

I need new spindles as well, had my front end down this weekend and installed an ARB with Brett's help.
My spindles are worn...now to locate a 96-97 ish Ranger in the yard......

The lockout fix it also works rather well. Anything that will lock the inner and outer to the lock washer will help a great deal. I will do this with my 33's just need to use a drill press and set screws......