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E3 Plugs??

Hyper26414

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Joined
July 22, 2007
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City, State
St. Louis, MO
Year, Model & Trim Level
5.0L 98 XLT
Are E3 spark plugs worth it or what would you recommend for the old 5.0?
 



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If you do a search, I believe there are already numerous threads discussing spark plug preferences, as well as so-called "gimmick" plugs.
 






I did search hence the post. I seen a dyno test on horsepower tv and the horsepower and mpg increased using the e3 plugs but they are expensive. I just wanted to know if anyone has tried them.
 






Motorcraft are tried and true and recommended wholeheartedly by Ford and Ford enthusiasts alike. Why bother with anything else? (Except maybe Autolite, whose plugs are manufactured in the same facilities as Motorcraft). I don't buy those HP and MPG claims. I'd love to see who paid for those tests (cough, cough, E3).
 






Motorcraft are tried and true and recommended wholeheartedly by Ford and Ford enthusiasts alike. Why bother with anything else? (Except maybe Autolite, whose plugs are manufactured in the same facilities as Motorcraft). I don't buy those HP and MPG claims. I'd love to see who paid for those tests (cough, cough, E3).

whole-heartedly agree.

Snakeoil. Just like the Bosch +4, Z-Max, bilge-pump "superchargers," etc.
 






if you're willing to take the plunge, I'd love to see any results from the same drivetrain setup from someone who wasnt stuck on the old ways
 






I was also planning on picking up some Ford Racing plug wires.
 






Also if I go motorcraft should I get copper or platinum??
 






double platinum is my preference because they cant rust in place ( I had a bad experience)
 






double platinum is my preference because they cant rust in place ( I had a bad experience)

Anti-seize will cure that.

I prefer copper plugs myslef.
 






I was also planning on picking up some Ford Racing plug wires.

Are you certain they have them for the 5.0 Explorer? I seem to recall the answer is no.

Stock Motorcrafts are very good wires for the 5.0 and they have the heatshields to keep your wires from burning up if you use standard routing. I have Torque Monster Headers so went with non-standard routing and am using heat socks to handle the heat using aftermarket wires from Aurora (very pleased). I used Magnecor before the header install and ended trashing a few because I didn't use socks. They're very good wires too and withstood the heat for a long time before a few of the boots starteds to go "soft". They never actually burned up.

The thing I like about both Magnecor and Aurora is they'll make custom wires for you and will also replace one wire at a time. Can't do that with most "sets". Aurora actually made me two wires with different boots on them to handle the tighter spaces which result from using headers. Magnecor would have done the same as well (I asked).

If you want to use no-nonsense wires that are made specifically for a standard installation, you won't go wrong with OEM. There are no real performance benefits you'll see from going aftermarket for the most part. Make sure to use dilelectric grease on both ends of the wires to make future removal that much simpler.
 






Yes I found them on Summit's site for like $43. They are 9mm wires vs the 8mm stockers. The last time I bought wires they I think they were significantly more expensive than that and yes they were stock motorcraft wires.
 






Yes I found them on Summit's site for like $43. They are 9mm wires vs the 8mm stockers. The last time I bought wires they I think they were significantly more expensive than that and yes they were stock motorcraft wires.

Those are not for DIS. They are for vehicles with distributors. Summit is incorrect in their listing that they fit Explorers.
 






Dan is correct... And most people that replace their p/w with the snake oil units will swear by the dyno- the butt dyno. The truth is, most times the stock units that are being replaced have a TON of miles on them, and any replacement would show a gain just from being new. But, rarely (if ever) does someone who puts Motorcraft plugs or wires on their truck sign on about something going wrong, no gain, or not being pleased with the install. The same cannot be said for the Bosch stuff, and the other supposed 'performance' products.

Stick with the Motorcraft stuff and you won't second guess yourself later...

Just my .02. :)
 






Motorcraft are tried and true and recommended wholeheartedly by Ford and Ford enthusiasts alike. Why bother with anything else? (Except maybe Autolite, whose plugs are manufactured in the same facilities as Motorcraft). I don't buy those HP and MPG claims. I'd love to see who paid for those tests (cough, cough, E3).

I always wondered about the autolites, after talking to a retired mechanic who has now passed, the motorcraft plugs would always outlast the autolites by leap and bounds. He was the one who said motorcraft goes in Ford just like GM gets acdelco brand stuff, its what came from the factory and what should go back in. From what I was told the autolites were not made to the same tolerances as the motorcrafts. This is just my $.02 about it.
 






Just so everyone has a reference list as far as conductivity, these are a list of metals associated with spark plugs and other electrical connections from most conductive to least:

Silver: best

Copper: 9% less conductive than silver

Aluminium is 10% less conductive than copper

Gold: 24% less conductive than copper (but doesn't tarnish or corrode)

Brass is somewhere here.

Rhodium: 74% less conductive than copper

Iridium: 77% less conductive than copper

Platinum: 84% less conductive than copper

Titanium: Over 99% less conductive than copper

Soooooo..... Bosch Platinums can suck it... just my .02:)
 






i bought the E3's for my 99 XLT 4.0 alone with a set of JBA 9mm wires and i can deff feel a difference! no joke im not blowing smoke up anyones ass i really can feel a defference with the E3's. not sure about mpg... im driving a FORD EXPLORER i dont even bother with the mpg lol. anyhow i say the E3's are deff worth the money... what 5 something a piece... thats really not that expensive in my eyes:thumbsup:
 






I dont get it though you are trying to induce a spark... conductivity shouldnt matter. I would think you'd want more of a metal that wouldnt have carbon stick to it or corrode
 






I dont get it though you are trying to induce a spark... conductivity shouldnt matter. I would think you'd want more of a metal that wouldnt have carbon stick to it or corrode

Better conductor means better spark & less resistance.
 



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so whats the gap supposed to be on a new set of plugs?
 






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