Eddie Bauer EGR/EVR Issue

[Edward K]

Okay, I posted a thread a while back on a rough idling problem. Thought I had it fixed, but apparently the car thinks otherwise. I keep pulling codes every few times I do something to it and the codes have gone from a consistent 332 to a consistent 335. These codes will not quit, they keep coming back no matter what I do.
As far as the EGR system goes, I've replaced the PFE and the EGR both of which made the engine run waaay better. I've cleaned my MAF, and IAC both. All the vacuum lines seem fine, (went around them with a hose to my ear didn't hear anything abnormal.) Tested the EVR which gave me 33 Ohms of resistance, and I've checked the fuses.
I am truly and completely confused at this point. I got it so the EGR would respond (fixed the 332) but now it says my voltage is out of range.(335) Since the emission system effects idling so much I figure it still has to be a problem there somewhere. Any advice or ideas you guys could share would be appreciated.


Quick easy list:

Replaced:
EGR
PFE
Fuses
Cleaned:
MAF
IAC
Checked:
EVR (33 Ohms)

 

[Edward K]

I've been messing around with it, keep cleaning off the connectors I find, no luck so far, I've still got a CEL with the 335 code. If it's any help the CEL only comes on about two or three miles down the road and it's usually after a hard brake.

 

[Turdle]

Hmm, could be the brake booster is leaking vacuum?

 

[Edward K]

Hmm, could be the brake booster is leaking vacuum?

Just checked it. It seems fine. :/

Alright! I think I am actually getting somewhere now. I did check the EVR itself before, but I didn't check the connectors. So I checked them and I get voltage off of them like I'm supposed to, but when I ground the return line with the engine running it doesn't give me any response. (It should make the idle low and unsteady. I assume it should do about the same thing as testing the EGR valve.) Could it be something electrical? (Aside from the fuses I mean, those are all good.)

 

[jremington59]

Does your vehicle have a DPFE?

 

[budwich]

PFE sensor needs replacement... maybe

 

[Edward K]

PFE sensor needs replacement... maybe

Does your vehicle have a DPFE?

I've already replaced the dpfe sensor. The one in there is less than a month old.
Like I said, when I test them manually through the vacuum lines, they work, but if I try to test via the electricals it doesn't do anything.

I'm thinking it may be a busted vacuum line somewhere or a bad electrical connection. Imma take the intake manifold off tomorrow and inspect the lines. We'll see what that brings up.

I'm still convinced its something electrical as the 335 code says the EGR voltage is out of tolerance.

 

[Edward K]

A little clarification. I didn't test the DPFE manually with vacuum, I used a voltmeter of course . I'm testing the EGR via a manual vacuum, and I tested the EVR electrically.

 

[budwich]

I've already replaced the dpfe sensor. The one in there is less than a month old.
Like I said, when I test them manually through the vacuum lines, they work, but if I try to test via the electricals it doesn't do anything.

I'm thinking it may be a busted vacuum line somewhere or a bad electrical connection. Imma take the intake manifold off tomorrow and inspect the lines. We'll see what that brings up.

I'm still convinced its something electrical as the 335 code says the EGR voltage is out of tolerance.

maybe put the old one back and see if there is a difference since you also changed "sister parts".


check the vref coming into the sensor.

 

[Edward K]

maybe put the old one back and see if there is a difference since you also changed "sister parts".


check the vref coming into the sensor.

Vref checked out okay, put the old DPFE back in and it ran like crap and started giving me the old 332 code again. Swapped to the new DPFE code went away and drives okay again. Still got that darned 335 code though.

 

[budwich]

:-(

I saw forum items around that question the voltage range that the sensor was putting out.... do you know what yours is??

 

[Edward K]

:-(

I saw forum items around that question the voltage range that the sensor was putting out.... do you know what yours is??

Yeah, it came out right at 5V's like it was supposed to.

 

[budwich]

I don't think you understand or perhaps I misunderstand... I am not asking / referring to the vref... I am referring to the actual response of the sensor to vacuum.

 

[Edward K]

I don't think you understand or perhaps I misunderstand... I am not asking / referring to the vref... I am referring to the actual response of the sensor to vacuum.

Oh, my bad. I misunderstood you. I was checking for voltage reference, not for the vacuum.

Somehow I missed this when I tested everything else with a vacuum; (thanks for clarifying, I'dve kept looking elsewhere.) the EVR solenoid does not hold any amount of vacuum is has a small crack in the body where it's all leaking out. Gonna go pick up the part sometime before Saturday hopefully.

If this don't fix it... Well it don't. I just hope it does.

 

[budwich]

I suspect you have found your problem...

 

[Edward K]

I suspect you have found your problem...

Replaced it. Had more power until I hit a bump, then the power was gone and the CEL came back on... Something ain't right here...

 

[budwich]

??? :-( I assume you checked the code.... hopefully. Some thing is loose or perhaps under stress / tension such that a "hit" may be breaking / cracking things perhaps.

 

[Edward K]

It's still the 335 code so it's electrical at this point. I think there is a connector loose somewhere either in the dashboard (I think it might be in the dashboard because the rear windshield switch only works sometimes) or under the intake. As soon as I've got our other vehicle running Imma start tearing down the dash and intake to see if I can find it. Until then, I suppose I'll have to live with my loss of power and CEL...

 

[Turdle]

My bet is the power distribution box--tighten the lugs to the fuses for those circuits. Also tighten the lugs for any relays--

You might "jiggle" the wire bundle coming out of it to see if you can set off the code. Just a hunch.

 

[Edward K]

My bet is the power distribution box--tighten the lugs to the fuses for those circuits. Also tighten the lugs for any relays--

You might "jiggle" the wire bundle coming out of it to see if you can set off the code. Just a hunch.

I'll definitely give that a shot before I go tearing her down. Thanks!