Engine Swap has begun... Now for the fun part.

[n0xdw]

Both engines are out, the one from the B2 came out last night and now to start figuring out little problems, like the pressure hose for the clutch slave, why couldn't they have continued to use the same clip on the slave as they used in 85??? or what to do about PATS (Passive Anti Theft System), or how about the higher pressure injectors that a 99 used... Oh and what to do about the clutch disc and pressure plate that the 99 uses, about twice as expensive as 97 and older... GRRRRR why couldn't i have found a 97 and avoided at least a few of those pitfalls. We shall see how many weeks, months ??? it may take to meld two very different wiring harnesses. So any suggestions from some of the folks that have been there and done all that are quite welcome.

 

[boominXplorer]

If you are going to use the fuel system off the 99 then good luck. You will need the whole in tank pump setup from the same year since its returnless. Another option is to change out the fuel rail to with with the FPR on the rail and go from there.

For the pats I am sure thats not hard to bypass. I know with remote starts you have to bypass it with a relay. I am not sure about wirering and all but that should give you something to start with.

 

[410Fortune]

Ah yes fun fun this is a nice conversion but a big project!

 

[n0xdw]

Fuel rail pressure

If you are going to use the fuel system off the 99 then good luck. You will need the whole in tank pump setup from the same year since its returnless. Another option is to change out the fuel rail to with with the FPR on the rail and go from there.

That is the option i am working on for now. The rub comes in that the system needs a higher pressure, I.E. 65 PSI. I will also have to install the fuel tank pressure sensor like Jamie did on his OBD2 conversion. I am going to look into the possibility of modifying the stock pressure regulator used up till 98 to accept a GM one. I a technician at a GMC dealership so i am more familiar with their fuel systems etc, but i have been studying the 99 manual.

 

[n0xdw]

It now runs.
I did modify a stock fuel pressure regulator and made it adjustable. It is a return system now but the vacuum hose simply goes to the air hose to keep the fuel system pressure essentially constant and if the diaphragm fails it will not leak on the ground.

PATS works fine. Now it is just the little stuff like the exhaust and speedometer fuel gauge etc. Speedometer cable was too short after the longer transmission was installed. Oh and of course front and rear axle upgrade will be in the works. Clutch feels like there is just a bit of air trapped in the system even after bleeding a couple of times but it works.

Oh and of course the wiring to the computer still needs extended so i can get it out from under the hood and into the cab. Not looking forward to that hassle!

 

[cybergasm]

Bravo!! probably was alot work but now you're in the home stretch keep up the good work

 

[FROADER]

Moved this to "Under the Hood".

 

[n0xdw]

Installed Dana 35 tonight/this morning. Somehow i missed that it is a full 2 inches wider then the 1985 Bronco II Dana 28 was. Still have to finish aligning, it was toed in about 8 inches when we first let her down. I will have to examine threads on the adjusters closely to make sure the linkage is long enough. I can see there is plenty of camber. So it should be better once some of that is removed. Looking at our chassis catalog i did notice that around 87 there was a change and about 90. Does anyone know if they made them wider when they changed body style? We did not have either of the two tie rod/center links that were different. The outer ones are the same for all model years. I could not find a spec for the track on the B2s. Looks like plenty of work yet left to do.

 

[410Fortune]

sweet!

Have you considered just mounting the PCM under the hood?

When I went to a dana 35 I also used the Explorer donor steering linkage and tossed my old D28 stuff in the metal bin.

You can get the speedo cable from a Ranger, autozone carries them they are much longer (take yours with you to compare)

 

[n0xdw]

sweet!

When I went to a dana 35 I also used the Explorer donor steering linkage and tossed my old D28 stuff in the metal bin.

The two inner tie rods are ordered. Our chassis book shows the outer tie rod ends as the same for all years. So hope to install those soon. I think the shorter ones are ok for now till i go off road, but i am hoping to have it ready for an easy trail near Leadville August 5th. So the assurance of additional threads seems like a good idea.

 

[410Fortune]

a 95 explorer no frills master cylinder will make arear 8.8 disc brake setup work 100%
You should remove your BII's RABS valve

the explorer brake booster might be a good idea as well
Dana 35 front calipers will also work perfect with this master cyl

 

[n0xdw]

a 95 explorer no frills master cylinder will make arear 8.8 disc brake setup work 100%
You should remove your BII's RABS valve

the explorer brake booster might be a good idea as well
Dana 35 front calipers will also work perfect with this master cyl

Does the no frills M/C have the cruise control switch? My BII does not have the RABS, just the old style combo valve, i think they did not put RABS in till 86 or 87? I will have to look into that. Thanks for the suggestion.

Interestingly i noticed the calipers looked identical and checked and it seems to be, so i never unhooked the calipers, just hung them out of the way. Braking does not seem to have changed. So that is a good sign.

 

[n0xdw]

VSS DTC What kind of signal does it need?

Took the little B2 out for an extended test drive (about 230 miles) and it sets VSS code the first time i slowed down after about 15-20 miles of cruising speed. I guess i better find out what type of signal the computer is expecting. Since it is a 1999 PCM that would have gotten the signal from the ABS i assume it is some sort of square wave that it would get. Does any one know if it is a 5 Volt or what? I can probably make a buffer from the speed sensor for the cruise control. If i can find documentation for the levels.

All in all it drove quite well for it's first trip out of town. Fuel mileage was not too whippy at a bit over 16 for the first tank but probably not bad for as much around town driving it had first. I think i need to adjust the fuel pressure down just slightly. I set the regulator for about 65, I think i will try about 62-63. Temp is running low so i better install a new thermostat. AC works very well .

 

[410Fortune]

Oooh your PCM is looking for a VSS signal from the 8.8 stator assembly.

You could use a 8.8 with this sensor and be golden.

If you go the buffer route I am curious to see what you come up with

 

[n0xdw]

VSS yes, still no cruise?

I think i have tested everything, no cruise. I built the buffer circuit and lo and behold the PCM now knows how fast she be going. In fact if you open her up (on Jack stands of course) soon as you hit around 105-108 it cuts the power back. There was a campaign ostensibly about the cruise but it was actually to program a max speed on this vintage. They must have done it! Still no Cruise



I should mention that the Cruise control is all 99. I have verified the same VSS signal at the PCM is also on the Cruise servo. Repaired the Brake Pedal Position circuit. (Found a corroded terminal on the Clutch switch and soldered it. Hooked up the pressure switch and it provides the appropriate voltage. So i am confused, Brake switch is hooked up through the clutch switch. Put the scope on i believe it is pin 4 of the servo connection and i am getting the 5 volt square wave that the PCM likes.

And before anyone asks, no i did not perform the flash diagnostics. I did not realize the little light could be used for more than an engaged indicator. I think i pulled that wire from the harness since i did not think i would need it. I will try the flash diagnostic tomorrow if i have time.

 

[n0xdw]

Performed flash diagnostics on Cruise

The On and Off work fine, but it does not recognize the other 3 buttons. The buttons all change the voltage on the lb/bk circuit 151 when connected to servo. I will have to check again but thought the buttons checked within range on the various resistance tests. I will do more checks later.

 

[410Fortune]

YOU went 108 MPH on jack stands?
Holy moley

I still have my 1988 cruise control hooked up just like 1988, using a 4.0L vacuum canister with a 5.0L throttle/cruise cable.
It works like factory, only required inputs from the BOO and VSS circuits I believe, the rest is direct to the PCM? or Gem module (88 had a simple GEM module that controls the e shift 4x4 and a couple other items), also I think there is a cruise control box behind the dash but I have never had to service it. I also have the 88 steering wheel and buttons

Wiring the OBD sensor under your dash is not too hard, it gets 3-5 or so wires from the PCM, a ground, + and ACC + I believe. Towards the end of my 5.0L conversion thread in the BII I tackled this sucker and there is some info posted

 

[n0xdw]

I used the stepper motor Servo from the 99, but i am starting to think the unit is bad. It is a single compact unit so fits in a smaller space. I removed the original Cruise servo stuff as the Power Distribution box goes right where it was mounted, and the PATS module mounted where Cruise amplifier was. The 85 buttons which i think are the same as 88 are the same resistances as the 99 wanted, so that should have worked. I will have to read toward the end of your thread. I wired up the BOO and clutch switch, had to get one from an 86, (the 85 only had the start switch) and the switches on the steering wheel. It uses the same VSS signal the PCM uses. But the flash diagnostics would only flash for the on and off buttons so i am going to compare voltages from a friends pick up today if i can and see if they are about the same as what i have. If so i will be looking for a new servo.

I did not use the GEM since i am using the manually shifted T-Case.

I did get the high grade marine wire in so will have to see about tackling extending the PCM harness to get it out from under the hood. As far as i can tell everything works as it should except the cruise now.

 

[n0xdw]

YOU went 108 MPH on jack stands?
Holy moley


Wiring the OBD sensor under your dash is not too hard, it gets 3-5 or so wires from the PCM, a ground, + and ACC + I believe. Towards the end of my 5.0L conversion thread in the BII I tackled this sucker and there is some info posted

Are you talking about the OBDII connector sometimes also called the Data Link Connector? If so yes that is mounted inside, but the new style cruise module has limited flash diagnostic capability where it will flash the cruise control light if you turn the key on with the off button pushed, then push the on button, then resume and so forth. I get the flash when turning on, then when i hit the on, but that is where it all ended...

Oh and on jack stands you just let the clutch out in 5th gear and give it a small amount of gas and in no time it is up there. Thought might as well see if it had the top speed fuel shut off programmed in while i was testing speedo and computer correlation. The speedo only goes to 85 but the scan tool reading goes on up.

 

[CDW6212R]

Nice project, well done, almost done like mine.

Do you have to run the PCM inside? Is there room under the steering column for the PCM to be mounted on the firewall, like the Crown Vics?

Do you know how much extra length you need? Spare wiring harnesses are very handy for splicing in new/extra wires with matching colors. Good luck,