List of Useful Threads Everything I know about the M5OD-R1 & BW1354M

[BonesDT]

Do you have the 8.8? Does it have a sensor in the pumpkin?

I like the idea of using the older 1354m's gear driven VSS to send the signal for the ext housing OSS sensor. You would probably have to design a little circuit to translate the output. Another idea would be to use the crankshaft speed sensor and your comp would just think you were in 4th gear all the time (1:1 ratio). I tried to use this idea to fool my comp when I swapped out the auto trans, but I confirmed the 5R55E's input shaft speed sensor's cog had a different amount of teeth than the output shaft speed sensor's cog.

 

[BonesDT]

do you have any pictures of the OSS cog on the ranger

Posted pics in Post #10.

 

[briwayjones]

Holy information overload Batman!! Wow great post.

I always heard that the R1HDs behind the 4.0SOHC had a lower first gear than the regular R1s behind the 4.0OHV. I have explorers with both and it sure seems that way.

On a side note I have a Manual SOHC and OHV Explorer, and my parents have a Chrome dual stick FX4 Ranger.

 

[BonesDT]

I always heard that the R1HDs behind the 4.0SOHC had a lower first gear than the regular R1s behind the 4.0OHV. I have explorers with both and it sure seems that way.

That's exactly what I heard. I know I saw gear ratios somewhere where all the gears are the same besides the lower 1st gear. Now when I did a search today, the gear ratios I posted is all I can find. I didn't even know there was another M5R1 for the smaller engines.

 

[briwayjones]

That's exactly what I heard. I know I saw gear ratios somewhere where all the gears are the same besides the lower 1st gear. Now when I did a search today, the gear ratios I posted is all I can find. I didn't even know there was another M5R1 for the smaller engines.

I've seen that listed somewhere too. I'll see what I have at home as far as that listing.

 

[EDGErazor]

Followed your link from RF. Great post!

 

[dkchrist]

Sorry, I have been busy. I do have a manual transmission and 4 wheel ABS.
"OSS"=Output Shaft Speed
"VSS"=Vehicle Speed Sensor? (Hopefully someone will chime in)

I do have a sensor on the rear axle exactly how much it does ABS and VSS I don't know. With using the crank sensor how is your fuel economy?

Also, if I were to use the gear in the transfer case to fool the computer I would need a gear driven sensor (similar to a jeep) rather than the current cable drive.

 

[Freshmeat]

I smashed the sensor on the passenger side of my M5OD from the donor '91 Mazda Navajo during the extraction process. I can't find it identified anywhere- do you know which sensor I'm referencing? Can you please tell me WTF it is so I can replace it? Doing the swap in two days and don't want to be hung up on a stupid sensor.

 

[BonesDT]

The only electrical component on the M5R1 is the reverse gear sensor for the back-up lights (and auto door lock) and it's on the driver's side, so I don't know what you could be referring to. Take a pic and post it.

 

[Freshmeat]

It's the neutral safety switch. Went to Ford to see their diagram then ordered it from O'Reilly for 1/4 of what Ford wanted.

Thanks anyway, man. Great info here for plenty of folks.

 

[Jack Flash]

I went to an "absolute" auto auction today w/my list of running/not running vehicles to buy for parts. I have been looking for a 5 spd tranny and manual transfer case for my old Ranger 4 X 4.

The sale had 3 Explorers w/4WD and 1 Ranger 4WD. The Ranger ('85 model) had the five speed w/manual Transfer case. So I lucked out; got an '85 complete Ranger with all the parts that I hope I need.

In all, there were 6 Explorers & 4 Rangers in varying year models. I would have bought them all if I had the space. These were a little banged up, but were rust free. I know most of them were destined for the scrap heap since a lot of junkyards frequent this sale.

If anyone knows of an open-to-the-public auction in their area, they might be able to find a donor vehicle and save the scrounging the local wrecking yards.
,
,

J...just sounding off, it's a slow day...lol.

 

[willy2]

10" or 10.25"

Question for you, I was told that the clutch kit comes in 10" and 10.25" versions. Do you know which is the right one for a 98 Ford Explorer Sport 2WD 4.0 OHV?

 

[BonesDT]

Question for you, I was told that the clutch kit comes in 10" and 10.25" versions. Do you know which is the right one for a 98 Ford Explorer Sport 2WD 4.0 OHV?

I never understood the clutch diameters. I've seen all different numbers, including 9-somethings. Luk even posts a measurement on their site, but then I called them and they gave me a different number. All of these are within 1/10ths inches. To complicate things even more, some websites listed the SOHC disc as smaller than the OHV disc, but as you see in my pictures, the friction surface is obviously thicker on the SOHC than the OHV, whether the outside diameters are different or not. Which clutch company are you looking at? Whichever clutch manufacturer you are looking at, they should only list one kit for your truck, just ignore their take on the clutch diameter. If these clutches really do vary in diameter, then they should all fit. The important thing is to get the right pressure plate with the correct bolt pattern.

Apparently, Luk makes all these clutches, even the OEM ones. I first had the OEM clutch, then the Centerforce Dual-Friction, then the Luk RepSet. As you can see from my pics, Luk indeed manufactures the Centerforce pressure plate and clutch internals. I'm guessing Centerforce's role is to manufacture the special Dual-Friction surface.

I am not happy with my current RepSet. The clutch pedal feel is way too soft and I am mostly concerned about getting max clamping force (especially considering I'm using 160hp OHV clutch kits with a 210hp SOHC engine, have oversized tires, and I tow). Granted, I just came from the Centerforce, but my '89 Dakota has a much stiffer pedal, and I'm sure the previous owner didn't put a Centerforce in that. In my mind, clutch pedal feel is directly coorelated with clamping force. I've even felt it slip a few times a week after I installed it, which is very concerning.

The Centerforce was a monster, but I don't remember the clutch pedal being very noticeably stiffer than the OEM I first had. So I'm thinking the RepSet is not the exact same as the OEM.

If you want a Mercedes like clutch pedal, then go with the Luk. If you want clamping force, I was really happy with the Centerforce. If you're in the mood for fabricating, get a Centerforce for a 2003 Ranger (SOHC engine) and drill & tap your single-mass OHV flywheel to accept the SOHC pressure plate bolt pattern. This is what I'm planning on doing when this RepSet gets fried, which I feel like will be very soon.

 

[Lefty04LevelII]

Below is a great picture of some super rare FX4 parts that were on sale...very briefly. That is the uber-rare FX4 version of the BW1354M; note the CV cup front driveshaft flange, and the wider shift arm (not sure the reason for that). You can also see how this uber-rare t-case shift linkage is 2-piece, with a chopped off rusted lower linkage but a beautiful round chrome handle upper piece. Also are, not 1, but 2 silver plastic FX4 twin stick bezels. That black plastic box with a strip of tape on it is another uber-rare piece that covers some comp on the Rangers right under the center dash.

I'm particularly interested in the black rubber coated shift plate. Unlike the steel shift plates and separate inner rubber boots like the older twin sticks, this FX4 plate and rubber boot seals are one piece. If anyone knows this part number, please let me know! Getting a rubber inner shift boot for your shifters is clutch (no pun) because it blocks out a lot of road noise as opposed to a direct hole in your floorpan. Right now I'm using a beach towel wrapped around my shifter.

Here's another photo for ya. I wish I hadn't sold the stuff. It took me quite a bit of leg work to find it all.

And here's the infamous extension housing with linkage bosses AND OSS sensor. Photo credit goes to Bob Wenzing, aka rwenzing on here. And just because he sucks, living in the SE portion of our state, EDGErazor has this very extension housing from Bob IIRC.

This extension housing was found in 2002 to mid-year 2003 ford rangers. After mid-year 03 ford did away with the bolt bosses. I've pulled VINs off of 02 and 03 model FX4 (for 02) and FX4 Level II (03) to get the extension housing part number, but unfortunately when I ordered them they were exactly like my 04 housing - bossless. Interesting fact, my girlfriend has a high school friend that picked up a plain 2002 super cab 4x4 ranger, non-FX4, and his tranny has the extension housing with bosses and OSS sensor. So, the extension housing can be found on non-FX4 models.

Now for the unfortunate, in my search of JYs with dead rangers (02-03) or already pulled tranny they wanted to sell the entire tranny just so I could get the extension housing. The fortunate part for me is I never found the right extension housing, and even if I had I wouldn't have had $1000+ that I was quoted for said tranny.

I told Bones in an e-mail that I also have the VINs and part #s written down, but I've recently moved from Las Cruces, NM up to Albuquerque. I did not toss that info, but I also haven't found it yet in the unpacking. As soon as I find them I'll throw it up here.

 

[Scott B.]

Does anyone have a close-up picture of the transfer case shift lever? I'm asking about the 2-piece one, with the chrome inside-the-cab piece.

I have a manual shift case I am going to swap into my '06, and I would like to use the chrome shift lever assembly. I hope/think it is still available from Ford.

 

[cory1010]

that is a lot to take in all at once

let me ask you this

if i was to get a my hands on one of the M5OD-R1HD trans would it it bolt up to my 4.0l ohv? could i use the same clutch kit and flywheel?

 

[BonesDT]

Both the M5OD-R1 and the M5OD-R1HD will bolt up to both the 4.0 OHV and the 4.0 SOHC.

I'm guessing you currently have a manual trans OHV Ex and you are looking to upgrade your stock R1 trans to a R1HD. In that case, yes, all you have to do is swap the trannys. Keep your flywheel & your clutch kit. I'm not sure if the slave cylinder is the same, they probably are, but replace that thing anyway. EVERYTHING about the HD is identical as your eyes can tell, except for the addition of the speed sensor in the extension housing. Even though you don't need to wire that sensor up, make sure it's bolted in there or the trans fluid will leak out.

 

[91EX4x4]

I'm looking into converting my 4cyl. 06 Ranger to four wheel drive and I had a few questions for you about the transmission. It came factory with the 5 spd, and would like to keep it that way. Since Ford didn't make any of the duratec 2.3s four wheel drive, so I will need to get an extension housing and output shaft to put on my transmission to make it work. I wasn't sure which one I will need for this purpose. I'm going to guess I will need one out of an 01+ 3.0L ranger 4x4. Can you confirm this?

I'm guessing I should get the transfer case out of the same truck. I don't really need or want the headaches of trying to track down a manual T-case for it, so I suppose I will have to find an electric shift unit. Which model is this that I will need to track down? Which model did they use in 06?

I would like to keep as many parts true to the 2006 as possible with few exceptions (ie. important stuff, and wear items). That will help a lot with ordering parts straight from the counter. That way I won't have a 2 page list of which pieces came from which year and model like I do for my 94 T-bird, lol. One of the things I know they changed in the newer years is the brakes.

I have found a 99 Ranger 4x4 4.0 auto that got cash for clunkered in a local pull and pay (a total shame, it was a really nice truck). I figured I would grab the frame, front axle assy and driveshafts from it. Does anyone know if my 2.3 duratec will bolt into that frame? I know the mounts that bolt to the engine will be different, but I didn't know if there were frame side differences between the engine models, and between this year frame and newer ones. Does anyone know if there will be any major frame differences between this year and mine?

So I don't end up hijacking this thread, post answers to the tranny/T-case questions here and PM me if you know any of the others.

Thanks,
Rob

 

[BonesDT]

I'm not sure which 5-speed manual trans came with the 2006 4-cylinder Rangers. First thing you should do is crawl under your truck, take a pic of your trans tail housing (pref driver's side of it) and post it. The important question is whether you have a speed sensor in your tailhousing. Nevertheless, swapping the trans output shaft for a 4x4 one requires disassembling the entire trans, plus, probably the only way to get the output shaft is to rip it out of a 4x4 transmission, so if you can get a 4x4 trans, why not just use it. If you don't have the Mazda M5OD-R1, then you probably should upgrade, I don't know if it bolts up to the 2.3.

I'm also not sure which transfer cases came with 2006 V6 Rangers, its prob the auto-shift BW4405 Torq-Trac, but it might have been the BW1354 electric. Nevertheless, your options for the swap could be the 4405, 1354e or 1354 manual. I would stay away from the 4405 because you won't benefit from the auto shift unless you get the comp for it and I'm not sure if it communicates with the engine's comp, so it could be a complicated endeavor; however it is simple enough to wire up the electrics without the auto feature, but then you should just go with the BW1354 electric which is a smaller package. The BW1354e would be the easiest to work with, because routing some wires would be easier than rigging up the shifter and linkages, and I believe the 1354e is readily & cheapily available.

Don't know anything about the frames. You might have to worry about the 2.3's oil pan clearance with the front axle.

What you're talking about is going to be a huge project. You're replacing almost the entire truck besides the body. You prob will need the 4x4 frame, since the front IFS is different.

 

[91EX4x4]

I'm not sure which 5-speed manual trans came with the 2006 4-cylinder Rangers. First thing you should do is crawl under your truck, take a pic of your trans tail housing (pref driver's side of it) and post it. The important question is whether you have a speed sensor in your tailhousing. Nevertheless, swapping the trans output shaft for a 4x4 one requires disassembling the entire trans, plus, probably the only way to get the output shaft is to rip it out of a 4x4 transmission, so if you can get a 4x4 trans, why not just use it. If you don't have the Mazda M5OD-R1, then you probably should upgrade, I don't know if it bolts up to the 2.3.

I'm also not sure which transfer cases came with 2006 V6 Rangers, its prob the auto-shift BW4405 Torq-Trac, but it might have been the BW1354 electric. Nevertheless, your options for the swap could be the 4405, 1354e or 1354 manual. I would stay away from the 4405 because you won't benefit from the auto shift unless you get the comp for it and I'm not sure if it communicates with the engine's comp, so it could be a complicated endeavor; however it is simple enough to wire up the electrics without the auto feature, but then you should just go with the BW1354 electric which is a smaller package. The BW1354e would be the easiest to work with, because routing some wires would be easier than rigging up the shifter and linkages, and I believe the 1354e is readily & cheapily available.

Don't know anything about the frames. You might have to worry about the 2.3's oil pan clearance with the front axle.

What you're talking about is going to be a huge project. You're replacing almost the entire truck besides the body. You prob will need the 4x4 frame, since the front IFS is different.

The transmission is an M5OD-R1 from what I understand. The only reason I wouldn't just "get a 4x4 trans" is because it won't bolt up to the duratec 2.3 I have in my truck. It has a different bellhousing pattern than the old Lima 2.3. I will have to check and see where the speed sensor is located. I know I will likely have to find a newer tailhousing to accommodate the newer style speedo sensors that use the tone ring instead of a driven gear. It looks like I'll have to do more research on this one. I'm not scared of getting inside the transmission to swap the output shaft though.

Is the BW 1354E the same from 91 to present? That's basically what I was wondering when I was asking about this. I'd imagine this will be the best solution as far as the T-case goes. Have to check out some newer diagrams of the shift wiring and module. I have some spares of this stuff laying around; might need a shift motor though. I'd rather not have "auto" 4wd anyways.

I will have to do some more research on potential frame differences. I may be better off looking for a newer frame. I will have to see about the oil pan clearance too. I know for sure I will need a 4x4 frame since the front end of my truck is completely different. My 2wd isn't even like an edge, it has coils instead of torsion bars.

I know if I decide to do this it will be a huge project. That doesn't really bother me; I've had vehicles down to almost nothing before and put them back together. It wouldn't happen for quite a while anyways since I'm leaving for school soon and don't have the time right now. That, and my 94 Tbird is already down to a roller shell for paint...

Thanks,
Rob