Ex Won't Start!

[B94Sport]

Yesterday my truck started and drove fine, voltage gauge read 14.4, everything else was normal. Today I go outside to start it and go to work, turn the key and all I get is this sound from the passenger side (at least it seems like it) of the engine that sounds like a machine gun firing or a woodpecker or something... The constant clack-clack-clack noise. And it will not start. What could be causing this and how do I fix it? All of my lights and electrical work just fine, and the battery is only about 8 months old.

 

[JDraper]

Usually that sound is the sign of a battery that is low on voltage. The starter solenoid is mounted on the left side of the engine compartment near the battery, and that's probably where the noise is coming from. Is it possible you left something on overnight, like an interior light?? I'd first try to jump start it. If that doesn't work, I'd check the battery condition, all the charging/starting system fuses (not likely since you get the clicking sound), check to make sure your connections are tight from the battery to the starter, then check the resistance in the battery cable itself. There have been problems in the past in the older explorers where there is corrosion inside the positive terminal cable end that causes a no-start condition. Lights and accessories will work, but you can't start. It's also possible that you have a starter or your starter solenoid going south.

 

[B94Sport]

No, everything was off overnight... The only thing running was the alarm status indicator LED. I checked the battery connections and they seem fine, but I'm going to clean the terminals and see what happens. Right now my roommate is gone, so I have nobody to jump me, but I will try that when he comes back. So... I was getting ready to replace the battery cables anyway, possibly using 1/0 gauge cable. Where can I buy these? Auto Zone? I think the problem may lie in the solenoid, but I guess I won't know for sure until testing some stuff.

 

[B94Sport]

An update:

I got it started after a jump. Now though, things seem very wrong. I have left it running outside for 15 minutes so far, and the battery still does not have enough of a charge to run the headlights, much less any of the interior lights. Second, my air/fuel ratio is as rich as the gauge will show, and the idle is very rough... What do you guys think? I have no idea what's going on now. If I shut the truck off, I seriously doubt that it would start again. And I have tried two different batteries: The first one, which was dead and did not hold any charge at all, and now the one I have in there now that does not seem to be charging more. I just got a 200 amp alternator about 2 months ago, so this thing should be charging pretty quick.

 

[Alec]

I'd get the second battery checked to see if it holds charge, get the alt checked too. It's always good to check things out methodically, one at a time.

 

[B94Sport]

After letting the truck idle for almost half an hour, I turned it off, and sure enough, it wouldn't start again. Either the battery or the alternator is the problem, and I'm hoping battery... I figured this would be a good opportunity to replace the 8 year old battery cables, so tomorrow I'm going to get the battery and alt checked and buy new cables. I'm guessing the rough idle and rich a/f ratio are due to the lack of spark caused by the pretty-close-to-dead battery.

 

[exploderdriva]

Originally posted by B94Sport
No, everything was off overnight... The only thing running was the alarm status indicator LED. I checked the battery connections and they seem fine, but I'm going to clean the terminals and see what happens. Right now my roommate is gone, so I have nobody to jump me, but I will try that when he comes back. So... I was getting ready to replace the battery cables anyway, possibly using 1/0 gauge cable. Where can I buy these? Auto Zone? I think the problem may lie in the solenoid, but I guess I won't know for sure until testing some stuff.

autozone won't have 0 gauge wire. a car audio store will probably have to order it for you. unless its a good shop.

 

[B94Sport]

I called Autozone and Pepboys, neither of them carry cables specifically for the Explorer, so I imagine that replacing my current cables is going to be a lot of fun... Anyway, I'm getting the alternator and both batteries checked this afternoon... We'll see how it goes.

 

[Alec]

take off your old cables, take another car to autozone, and they'll copy your old ones and make them for you. heard of it being done like that many times.

 

[B94Sport]

Oh really? Thanks, I didn't know that. The guy on the phone who was not very helpful, of course did not mention that either. Well... This could turn out to be a fairly involved process, right? The chances of me having this truck running by tomorrow morning are pretty much slim to none?

 

[aldive]

Originally posted by B94Sport
So... I was getting ready to replace the battery cables anyway, possibly using 1/0 gauge cable. Where can I buy these? Auto Zone? I think the problem may lie in the solenoid, but I guess I won't know for sure until testing some stuff.

You can get the cable from a marine supply store,

Buy it in bulk and buy the connectors and make your own, the exact copy of the existing ones,

We custom make all of our marine battery cables,

Good luck.....

 

[B94Sport]

I was considering that, but right now I am pressed for time and too short on cash to make my own... Had this whole fiasco happened a week from now, I'd definitely be making my own cables, and they'd be 1/0 gauge. For now I will have to settle for whatever I can get fast and cheap.

 

[B94Sport]

Fantastic! I got the battery and alt tested (after I pulled out all of the cables). The battery was of course dead, but could hold a charge and they charged it for me. The alternator, my 200 amp, $235 alternator from mralternator.com, is dead. The thing was a month and a half old! Better yet, now I have to try to reroute these cables. They really were not that bad after I inspected them, and I think they can last until I have the free time/lack of responsibilities to replace them with a larger gauge. Anybody have any pointers on this? Where does the ground wire bolt down? I have all the positive wire connections done.

 

[410Fortune]

the ground connects to the frame below the battery tray and then continues on back and mounts to the frame again.

There is no real point in going to larger cables, larger doesnt mean better. New wires of the same gage will work fine.

You can but a standard negative battery terminal with the proper number and lengths of wire attached from any auto parts store, just have to solder in 2-3 spots.

Aftermarket stereo/high amp alternators are overkill and usually junk. Of course teh stock 90a internal voltage regualtor alternators are not too great either, but you can have your stock alternator built into a sturdy 110+ amp unit by any good starter/alternator shop for under $100..

Just my 02 from past experience.

Oh and get yourself an Optima. If you are running a 1000W stereo (guessing), 47 off road lights, and a winch, then you might need a 200 amp alternator. You better be sure that all your charging system wires and connectors are in perfect shape and hooked up right.

If you are running a high powered stereo a stiffening capacitor will help withthe voltage spikes....

 

[B94Sport]

There is no real point in going to larger cables, larger doesnt mean better. New wires of the same gage will work fine.

Really? I will be running in excess of 170 amperes through the cables, and according to numerous sites, I should have at least 2 gauge cable to carry that current the small distance that it has to go from the alternator to the battery... The same goes for the ground cable. I would think that trying to force that much current through the stock 6 or 4 gauge cable would not be a good thing. Correct me if there's a problem with my logic on that... Right now I have 1/0 gauge running to a distribution block for my amps, and also a 1/0 gauge ground wire from the amps. That portion of the wiring, at least to me, seems like it will be adequate. But the stock underhood wiring for power and ground concerns me.

 

[410Fortune]

hey dont get me wrong! I have a 2 guage cable running from my Optima to my 500W Alpine V-12 all the way in the back, monster cable fuse and distibution boxes throughout. I am a big fan of overkill when it comes to wiring, but you said $$$ was tight right now, not that wires are too much but it can cost a pretty penny, hell my 3 sets of RCA's were almost $500.

What I'm saying is maybe a smaller alternator and wire would save some $$$$.
do you really need a 200 amp alternator? what are you running? a welder?

 

[B94Sport]

Yeah, money was tight up until yesterday when I got paid... Just getting done with school for the semester and then only getting paid once a month will do that to you. Now I have money to burn. When I pulled the stock cables out, I noticed that they really do not look that bad. They are at least capable of carrying a current to start and keep the truck running. So, in the meantime, while I am waiting for my replacement alternator to get sent to me, I am going to order new battery terminals and some larger gauge wire and ring terminals to replace the stock battery cables.

my 3 sets of RCA's were almost $500.

Wow! My two sets were only $50, and I thought they were high quality stuff. What did you buy?

What I'm saying is maybe a smaller alternator and wire would save some $$$$.
do you really need a 200 amp alternator? what are you running? a welder?

I'm running an Audiobahn A2200HCX amp (1600 watts, could be up to 1850 depending on voltage received), and an Audiobahn A2601 amp (420 watts, could be up to 485 depending on voltage), and then my Hella driving lights...