4.0blue98
Member
- Joined
- December 15, 2013
- Messages
- 35
- Reaction score
- 0
- City, State
- Maryland
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 1998 Ford Ranger XLT
Fuel filter is stuck. Apparently the previous owner made one fit. 98 4.0 OHV.
I had the lean codes (p0171/p0174) when the weather got cold in the fall and after checking all the vacuum lines, it actually turned out to be the intake gaskets which I just changed and codes stopped except when well below zero. I tried to change the fuel filter months ago at the beginning but couldn't get the tank end off. Looked like the filter was on backwards based on the shape of it compared to my replacement. Old one had no visible markings (flow arrow). I just got the PCV hose and grommet to complete the fix but still thought I'd change the fuel filter since I never had. Way overdue. Tried today and made the sad sad discovery. I have a variety of quick disconnect tools that I've accumulated over the years and had no trouble with the engine side. Came off just like they always do or should but the tank side wouldn't budge. The filter would spin and the O-ring felt like it was making good contact but couldn't get the three "spring" tabs to release. Then I realized the problem. The tool would not go in far enough as it would contact what appears to be a second ring that is not locked in. I finally cut the filter off leaving a stub of tubing so I could see better and there is a second ring just inside the opening blocking the action of the tool on the spring clips that are apparently hanging on to another ring. I tried all kinds of Macguyver-esque manipulations but to no avail. I tried to pull it straight out but had no luck there either. I did notice some marks on this fitting like someone had put a wrench to it before but the fitting is working and not leaking.
So now I'm stuck! Fortunately I have a few vehicles to drive so not a big deal right now but just thought I'd vent a bit and maybe someone out there has a trick they could share. My other options are cutting the flex part back to the flared metal tube (only about 5-6 inches back) and clamping the crap out of some new flexible line (I know it has to take up to 70-80psi). Or dropping the tank and replacing the line for like 250 bucks.
Any feedback will be greatly appreciated.
I had the lean codes (p0171/p0174) when the weather got cold in the fall and after checking all the vacuum lines, it actually turned out to be the intake gaskets which I just changed and codes stopped except when well below zero. I tried to change the fuel filter months ago at the beginning but couldn't get the tank end off. Looked like the filter was on backwards based on the shape of it compared to my replacement. Old one had no visible markings (flow arrow). I just got the PCV hose and grommet to complete the fix but still thought I'd change the fuel filter since I never had. Way overdue. Tried today and made the sad sad discovery. I have a variety of quick disconnect tools that I've accumulated over the years and had no trouble with the engine side. Came off just like they always do or should but the tank side wouldn't budge. The filter would spin and the O-ring felt like it was making good contact but couldn't get the three "spring" tabs to release. Then I realized the problem. The tool would not go in far enough as it would contact what appears to be a second ring that is not locked in. I finally cut the filter off leaving a stub of tubing so I could see better and there is a second ring just inside the opening blocking the action of the tool on the spring clips that are apparently hanging on to another ring. I tried all kinds of Macguyver-esque manipulations but to no avail. I tried to pull it straight out but had no luck there either. I did notice some marks on this fitting like someone had put a wrench to it before but the fitting is working and not leaking.
So now I'm stuck! Fortunately I have a few vehicles to drive so not a big deal right now but just thought I'd vent a bit and maybe someone out there has a trick they could share. My other options are cutting the flex part back to the flared metal tube (only about 5-6 inches back) and clamping the crap out of some new flexible line (I know it has to take up to 70-80psi). Or dropping the tank and replacing the line for like 250 bucks.
Any feedback will be greatly appreciated.