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Fuel Gauge Frustration


March 23, 2008
Reaction score
City, State
Omaha, NE
Year, Model & Trim Level
'92 Eddie Bauer
Hey guys, I'm looking for help. I recently tackled trying to replace the "float" on my 92 Ex due to my fuel gauge not working. After my cousin and I were fighting the fuel line disconnects, I noticed we created a small pin hole in the solid line on the sending unit...so, I ended up replacing the whole thing and the new unit came with the foam float. The old float did have fuel inside it, so I really expected the new sending unit/pump/float to be a fix for the gauge and just added security with a new unit. Guess what... you guessed it, the gauge still doesn't work. I checked the fuse #17, it is good. I am very electronically challenged, but need to try to fix the problem. Any help would be great. :rolleyes:

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Have you checked the electrical connections for power back there? Maybe power is getting to the pump but not the sending unit. Just a thought.

I know this thread is two years old. But I've been searching for over an hour so I could find someone with this problem. I would have preferred to have found a thread where they were able to fix it,
So, everything in the OPs post is me.
I didn't drop the tank to replace the sending unit. I cut a hole. So I didn't get a chance to look and see if the sending unit ground it beside the gas tank. I followed the loom up until it disappeared and never found a ground for the unit. Haynes is no help.
Is it the gauge? Can some one post info about how to test the wires for the sending unit. (ground continuity/voltage readings/wire colors)

Thank you,

Ford Specs.

Fuel Gauge Resistance

With the sending unit float arm in the empty stop position, resistance should be 15 ohms (below E). With the sending unit float arm in the full stop position, resistance should be 160 ohms (above F). The fuel gauge should read empty at 22.5 ohms and full at 145 ohms.

At the connector in the back, the pink/black and black wires are for the pump and the yellow/white and orange wires are for the gauge sender. If you see 15 ohms your float is junk or the float arm is stuck (seen it a few times with the hole trick, that the float arm gets bent going in and causes it to stick)

Its not the float. I replaced it twice. both new ones act the same. It must be up stream in the wiring or in the gauge.

When I start the truck it will whip over past full. It then slowly starts to drift back to 1/4 tank plus or minus some. This is regardless of how much fuel I have in the tank. it does it when my truck sputters about to run out of gas, or after a fill up.