Fuel Pump R/R Questions

[ricco750]

I am in the process of replacing the fuel pump, using the cut through the floor method. I have finished the cut, and now have a clear view of the pump fittings. Does anyone have any tips for undoing and reconnecting the fuel lines, and the electrical pigtail ? I would greatly appreciate any information.

 

[gmanpaint]

If those lines are in poor shape, cut them off and replace with new. As far as the pigtail goes, just going to have to take your time with it, and get it to release w/o breaking it. If the tabs do break off, use a Velcro strap or a zip tie to hold it together after re-installing it.

Try the alum red & gold fuel line connector removal tools after spraying the connections with a little carb cleaner to remove any debris to allow the tool to fit inside the connections properly.

 

[Roadrunner777]

Did this on Thursday... If your new pump is a complete assembly, then I recommend cutting the metal tubes on the old assembly so you can get better access and angle to the fittings.

I used the Lisle white plastic tools, and they did not work very well on the larger return line. If I tried another tool, it would probably be the metal scissor type. Reconnecting the lines was a breeze. The pigtail ends up being behind the driver rear tire. I was able to disconnect the old one and reconnect the new one by reaching around the front of the tire.

I am sporting 7 minor cuts and one pretty nasty one from this job because my trap door edges were so sharp. If I had any brains at all, I would have put some duct tape around the sharp edges.

If you have compressed air handy, blow off the rust and crap so it doesn't end up in the tank.

After the fact, I read in the instructions to make sure the tank is not contaminated, meaning you are not putting the strainer back down in a pile of rust and sand at the bottom of the tank. I might have dropped a magnet into the tank to see if I could pick up anything.

Really, once you have those 2 hoses disconnected, it goes pretty fast. I think it took me 30 minutes from that point to a test start.

 

[Roadrunner777]

By the way, if anyone knows what that black plastic part is under the seats, I'm just curious...

 

[ricco750]

Thanks to both of you for your replies. I have been able to disconnect the lines and the pigtail. I now have two more issues:

1. I closely inspected the inside of the fuel lines...there is a red outer o-ring and two blue inner o-rings in each line. On the high pressure line, the red o-ring sheared...I am assuming I need to buy a new line, that I cannot simply replace the o-ring ? The low pressure line looks fine.

2. Any tips on how to unscrew the retaining ring that holds the pump to the gas tank ? I have PB Blastered it for three days now and have tried using two screwdrivers to unscrew it, and lightly tapping it as well in the loosening direction.
Any suggestions ?

Thanks again

 

[Turdle]

For the o ring you may find it here

http://www.discountfuelsystems.com/...el+line+o+ring&N=0&events=search&desid=gooppc

Hit a bit harder with your hammer for the lock ring. It will move before you hurt anything. A flat bar will work better on the ear, moving it instead of cutting into it like a screwdriver will.

 

[Roadrunner777]

Try hitting at a couple of different angles around the ring. Pick a solid looking part and give it a good solid hit. I was using a big claw hammer with a 6" swing. You can buy a new ring if it comes to it, but at $15+ it's a bit pricey for a punched metal part.

 

[ricco750]

I just wanted to let you guys know I finally finished the job, and really appreciate all of the feedback I got. It turns out the o-ring was on the return line and not the high pressure line. I simply pulled it out with a pick tool, reversed the direction ( like you would for a garden hose ), and coaxed it back in the seating groove...not easy, but finally got it back in after about 10 minutes of poking with a very small screwdriver and the pick tool. I have already started the truck up, and no leaks.

BTW, I got that retaining ring off with an air chisel, using one of the bits that has a non-cutting groove in the middle. I applied it to one of the four tabs that stick up on the retaining ring, and it easily unscrewed the ring with only moderate pressure on the trigger. I got this tool only two weeks ago, thinking it would be handy for the floor cut, but actually ended up using my dremel with a grinding wheel to do this. I bought the air chisel at Harbor Freight for $15, and it came with 7 or 8 different bits. It's the first time I have ever used one of these tools, and I highly recommend having one in your inventory if you don't have one.