Getting the most out of what I have

[Fix4Dirt]

Curious, how tall is that bad boy? I'm restricted by a parking garage, debating whether or not I want a similar roof setup. I plan on having a similar height (same tires and lift)

sorry j saw this- 6' 2" without the rack on it just makes it (and i mean just makes it)


with the rack i believe in a 7' 4" or 7' 5" cant quite remember it just made it(when i ran xmas string lights on the rack it would hit)

 

[Fix4Dirt]

I've officially started entering "the point of no return" here... The rear end has been sagging and has gotten worse over the past year or two, so I bought new leaf springs. Also got Warrior 153 shackles. Of course, found some jackstands on sale to make this possible! Plan to throw this all in this weekend and also replace the rear shocks with Rancho RS5000s (I also got fronts, just depends how fast I go). I'm hoping to restore stock ride hide + 2 inches of lift (at most)! I'll make some measurements before/after the install. All of this to eventually put a nice brand new BFG KO3 when they come out in the size I want later this year (pending good tire reviews and appropriate load ratings, of course).

Of course I'll have to adjust the torsion bar to level it and then do an alignment

Any tips for the leaf spring, shackle, or shocks install? Doesn't seem like it'll be that bad. Was also thinking about going to pick up a ramp for the front tires to sit on so the frame doesn't sit at an angle on the stands. Is that going to be a necessity?

View attachment 450452

none were that bad whatsoever tip for shackle was let the suspension droop and support the body seperatly (like on trailer hitch) and then use jack to move diff/suspension up and line up

I think I may have fixed it! Drove it for about a half hour and light didn't come on, which was longer than the last time the light came on. (update: still hasn't come on after a few more days of driving and gas mileage seems improved so definitely seems fixed) It was just bothering me that I couldn't find a leak last time so I tried the same method before, spraying every connection with starter fluid and this time it worked. However, the difference this time was I just drove home. Last time it was on a cold start. I think that was actually the part that mattered! I'll explain why I think that in a second...

I recall when installing the intake kit that the hose that sits on the right was a pretty tight fit.View attachment 449787

So when I sprayed the connections of the hose, I pulled it off with the intent to check for a tear or something, but it was so loose! It was a little hot, maybe shouldn't have done that - but it makes sense since stuff expands when heated. It was loose enough that I'm 90% sure that this was the issue, I don't think I've driven enough to determine that yet though. However, I cannot overstate how loose it was when the engine was warmed up. What doesn't make sense to me was why it was fine for a bit (50 miles), and then suddenly became more loose. Maybe the material stretched? I noticed when the hose was warm it was significantly more flexible.

The (potential) fix? Just a little hose clamp. You can tell I sprayed where the hose connects quite a bit because I just couldn't believe I thought i found the issue lol. View attachment 449788

So I have some questions now, what does this hose connect to? Does my thinking make sense? I guess I just want an explanation for peace of mind. Does anyone know how long/how lean it has to run before the check engine comes on? I feel like this may be a super heavy math question.
And lastly, I noticed the other intake hose is connected SIDEWAYS and is somehow NOT leaking. The way it sits in there just really bothers me. Looks like it's fine considering all the dirt/wear looks very even but I figured I'd share.
View attachment 449789

PCV? dont quite remember

 

[410Fortune]

Start soaking the leaf spring and shackle hardware now with some pb blaster or similar penetrant

 

[DintDobbs]

@toobladink What Fix4Dirt and 410Fortune said. They're right.

When I did the rear shackles and shock absorbers on both of my Explorers, I didn't even bother to put the front end off the ground. Pick up the rear frame way farther than you think you need space for, because as 410Fortune said, you want some space to play with the droop when you're taking every thing apart and putting it back together. Using a jack against the weight of the truck, you can force the springs where you want them for easier removal of the shackle bolts (which WILL be a pain, use common sense or a hammer). And it's no lie, PB B'laster/WD40/whatever's handy is better than nothing, but whatever you have, make sure you get it on the U-bolt and shackle nuts a day before you start to work on it. It won't be impossible to remove them without it (ask me how I know!) but it will make the job much easier.

Shock absorbers are super easy, but again, much easier if you use some grease.

 

[toobladink]

Good news and bad news fellas! I'd like to report that the PB blaster leading up to the install was pretty effective. I wasn't able to get every bolt, those top mounting points for the shocks are pretty hard to reach. Almost everything else came out pretty freely, except the part where the shackle meets the frame. We really struggled to get that bolt out. My dad has had an air hammer for years as an old gift and we finally got to use it, and that wasn't enough. We (and I mean me) slipped and damaged the threads, so we grinded that bit so we could get the nut back on and deal with this another day.

So no shackles for me today! Didn't know there were bushings in the frame and I think that those might be busted and part of the reason why we couldn't get that bolt out. But I really want to replace them eventually, them fellas are rusty.

Here's what it looks like after, need to do something about my wheels rusting and ruining my new rotors

If you're curious on leaf spring comparison, it isn't big or even noticeable in the pic. But you can see how the gaps on the ends between the springs are definitely bigger on the old one. Replacing these made a bigger difference in how much the car sags when I stand on the bumper. I'm actually pretty glad I did this because this will make a huge difference when I go camping with buddies. Typically I've got three coolers: one full of food, one full of water, and one full with beer and ice.

So next, obviously gotta sort out that shackle situation and then get the front shocks installed at some point as well. But now it's time to park it til next weekend and finish it then

 

[toobladink]

Looking to get those shackles installed soon and I think I've found the replacement bushings that I need for where the shackles bolt to the frame. Can anyone help me confirm? I've done some searching and it looks like it will, I just want peace of mind more than anything. I'm getting Prothane parts 61068 and 61067 (the kit itself is 6810). However, these are just the rubber bushings. Where can I get the metal sleeves for the inside for the bolts? I see it's part number 60536 based off the similar kits, but I don't want to spend $50 for the whole kit, especially when I don't really need them. Almost thinking about just buying the tubing from a hardware store and cutting it to size. I've spent longer looking for inner sleeves than I did for the correct bushings so I've kinda given up on the idea that they would sell those on their own

6810 | Rear Leaf Spring Shackle Bushings - Ford Explorer

Ford Explorer Navajo replacement Rear Leaf Spring Shackle Bushings made by Prothane. Lifetime Warranty. Ships Immediately. Part Number 6810

www.prothanesuspensionparts.com

 

[DintDobbs]

I don't suppose you could cut/burn/tear/otherwise mangle the material off and re-use the same sleeves?

May be I'm un-thrifty, but if I was actually so concerned as to go to the extent of replacing those bushings, I don't think an extra $50 would bother me too much.

 

[toobladink]

I don't suppose you could cut/burn/tear/otherwise mangle the material off and re-use the same sleeves?

May be I'm un-thrifty, but if I was actually so concerned as to go to the extent of replacing those bushings, I don't think an extra $50 would bother me too much.

It's not that I'm concerned about going to the extent of replacing them, I will have to because I'm unable to install the lift shackles I bought and I will likely need to destroy (melt) them in order to get the existing ones off the frame. I might just re-use the sleeves, and I would be fine buying all the other new bushings if I didn't already just replace them all with my new leaf springs lol. I just don't know what they look like yet, and if I somehow damage them, or if they're already damaged, I would be wishing I got new sleeves. They're at least kind enough to provide the dimensions for the sleeves so making my own could be the best option if I can't source them. (Also I should mention, I have reached out to Prothane who makes the bushings I want to see if I can buy just the sleeves. Waiting for their response, praying it happens)

 

[DintDobbs]

I see, I see. Well, I hope things turn out in your favor - it might end up being cheaper/easier to make your own, once shipping is factored in, but you might just get lucky!

 

[410Fortune]

I ran into this on a 96 explorer many many years ago
The outer bushing sleeve is part of the frame assembly
You can press in new bushings and a new sleeve. I like your plan to cut new tube for the inner sleeve because finding the exact right part could be near impossible online without precise measurements

I spent 7 days replacing one of those bushings pressing the old one out and new one in. Just to install warrior shackles, it was a. Nightmare.
Many years later I would have just used a torch and melted the old bushing out would be much faster

Back then there was zero information about replacing that bushing ford wanted to sell me a new frame ….

 

[Fix4Dirt]

Many years later I would have just used a torch and melted the old bushing out would be much faster

that's definitely fastest. although just dont do it when other people are around, smelled and many peoples wondered what was burning!

 

[toobladink]

Finally found a "solution" to my sleeve problem: Bushing Inner Sleeve-Only

Basically was at work and thought, "wait... maybe i don't have to have the sleeves from prothane.." and after some basic googling i found what i needed immediately. This probably only saved me $20 compared to buying the big kit that included the leaf spring bushings. But that's $20 I can use to buy propane for a torch, i guess. Just wanted to share this for future reference as I did a lot of searching on this site and didn't find a lot of super useful stuff. It seems like the sleeves needed to be 2.5 inches from what I read but i went ahead and bought the 3 inch ones (based on the prothane specs) and figured I can cut them down if they're long.

Been super busy with some other stuff so I haven't been motivated, after march madness (go zags btw) I will set some time aside and do a rust treatment on this area of the car after I melt out those worn bushings!

 

[toobladink]

Shipping/processing the order for the sleeves has been taking a while... so I bought some of that engine cleaner spray I always see on the shelf and figured it's worth the try for $10. Can confirm, it was worth it. There are some pictures earlier in the thread that might give you an idea of how dirty it was. Don't think it's looked this clean under here for at least 20 years.

Anyways, anyone have a recommendation for a dash cam? I know that when you leave stuff plugged in it can drain the battery in these older cars. Is there a way to remedy that? I'm willing to pay up to like $250, but if there are extra features that are worth the extra cost then I'm okay with it - especially since I can use the camera on other vehicles or this could save me a lot of money if I get in an accident.

 

[DintDobbs]

She do be looking pretty, my guy! Nice K&N intake, I have the same one on my Sport.

How much coolant you need in that reservoir, is that just up to the cold fill line? The line on both of my SOHC coolant reservoirs is below the ridge. Not sure they're all the same, my two look different somehow, despite being shaped the same. Could be an aftermarket installation on one of mine.

 

[toobladink]

She do be looking pretty, my guy! Nice K&N intake, I have the same one on my Sport.

How much coolant you need in that reservoir, is that just up to the cold fill line? The line on both of my SOHC coolant reservoirs is below the ridge. Not sure they're all the same, my two look different somehow, despite being shaped the same. Could be an aftermarket installation on one of mine.

Honestly i dont really know - last time i topped it off, wasnt paying close attention and i overfilled it. I noticed most of it would spill out when i went “offroading” (driving on the nicest roads in my city) and it splashed out the top. So it could very well be low or high, i need to check!

 

[toobladink]

FINALLY installed the front shocks. Just had time to rust treat the parts behind them. I'll have to come back and redo some of the areas I painted over since I got a little overspray action and didn't brush them as clean. So far, best thing I've done for my ride quality. The old shocks were so bad. The top nuts were so rusted I gave up trying to screw it off and went to town with a saw. I know over time, these small things will really add up and I hope this car is unrecognizable by the end of the year.

If you zoom in, you might see some split rubber bushings. Looks like I know what I'm doing next weekend!

 

[TribeZ]

Shipping/processing the order for the sleeves has been taking a while... so I bought some of that engine cleaner spray I always see on the shelf and figured it's worth the try for $10. Can confirm, it was worth it. There are some pictures earlier in the thread that might give you an idea of how dirty it was. Don't think it's looked this clean under here for at least 20 years.

Anyways, anyone have a recommendation for a dash cam? I know that when you leave stuff plugged in it can drain the battery in these older cars. Is there a way to remedy that? I'm willing to pay up to like $250, but if there are extra features that are worth the extra cost then I'm okay with it - especially since I can use the camera on other vehicles or this could save me a lot of money if I get in an accident.

View attachment 451055

My dash caM will definitely kill the battery after 3-4 days of sitting. I just unplug it. But when it’s plugged in it will record movement and such, so on road-trips it’s nice to keep on at hotels and such.

 

[toobladink]

does anyone know off the top of their head if i need to jack the car up to install front and rear sway bar links? looks like i don't need to take the tires off and seems like as long as i'm on level ground it'll be fine? been having to drive about an hour every time i go work on my car so if i can just do this in my parking garage, that'd be good to know lol

also, does the bushing on the very top of the shock look too tight to anyone else? that bushing is almost oooozing out of that washer. thinking i might need to go back and loosen it, but is it really a big deal? just thinking it'd lead to it potentially splitting like the sway bar bushings did

 

[410Fortune]

Top shocks bushing it a little tight yes

Having a jack handy makes it much easier to replace sway bar links
Do both sides at the same time

 

[FletcherHubbards]

Mine had 200k on a switched instrument cluster only thing you got watch out for with the ohv is there garbage transmissions. If you have a manual other story.

Speed Test​