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Help identifying part and where I can get it

BobGunns

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Joined
October 14, 2024
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City, State
Texas
Year, Model & Trim Level
1997 Ford Explorer 2WD
Hey guys I'm new here and have zero experience as a car mechanic. My mechanic says I need to replace this part which attaches to brake hose or line in passenger rear. Can someone identify the part for me please and give me an idea where to find it? It's for a 1997 Ford Truck Explorer 2WD 4.0L FI SOHC 6cyl
I'll attach a Picture where the part is circled in yellow. Much appreciated guys.
1000010242.jpg
 



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Welcome to the forum!

Do you mean the metal brake tubing with nut, or a bracket that holds it?

If it's a rusted through bracket, I'd just make something out of metal sheeting or strapping material, a loop around the metal end of the soft hose, but the bracket is built onto the end of the soft hose so you could just replace the soft hose to have a new bracket, and if it is the original hose then it is probably due for replacement anyway. Here's an example with a picture of the bracket on the hose:


If buying only one hose at a time, it is probably cheaper to get it on Amazon, by searching the part #'s listed on Rock Auto for the right rear hose position.

If the the problem is the metal brake line itself, can either make a new run out of bulk brake line, or buy something ready made in the closest size available as long as it's not too short. Too long you can work with. Ready made means a straight piece that you bend by hand, literally can be bent without tools, to a similar shape to the old line. It attaches at the other end to the soft hoses at the left rear wheel area, above it.

When I did that run across the axle on my '98, I used AGS Poly Armour Brake Line, part # PAX-351, which is 3/16" x 51". It was a few inches too long so I put extra bends in it to take up the slack.


If that brake line is rusted out, the rest of the lines may be soon to follow if they are still the originals.

Lastly your picture seems to have some sort of minor corruption. You might have some data/memory problem somewhere in the process of taking the pic and getting it posted here.
 






Welcome to the forum!

Do you mean the metal brake tubing with nut, or a bracket that holds it?

If it's a rusted through bracket, I'd just make something out of metal sheeting or strapping material, a loop around the metal end of the soft hose, but the bracket is built onto the end of the soft hose so you could just replace the soft hose to have a new bracket, and if it is the original hose then it is probably due for replacement anyway. Here's an example with a picture of the bracket on the hose:


If the brake line itself, can either make a new run out of bulk brake line, or buy something ready made in the closest size available as long as not too short. Too long you can work with. Ready made means a straight piece that you bend by hand, literally can be bent without tools, to a similar shape to the old line. It attaches at the other end to the soft hoses at the left rear wheel area, above it.

When I did that run across the axle on my '98, I used AGS Poly Armour Brake Line, part # PAX-351, which is 3/16" x 51". It was a few inches too long so I put extra bends in it to take up the slack.

 






Lol, I sent him Pic of that exact part you posted earlier before you posted on here, and he said that's not it. He's pointing right at the part, but I dont know what it's called or if that metal part is attached to an even larger part? Thank you for replying I really appreciate it, any other thoughts or ideas what that part is my friend?
 






The bracket is part of that hose I linked, here is one of the pictures on that linked page:

hose-end.png


The only things in the area of your picture are the hard line that goes across the axle, this hose, and a bolt that holds it on through the hole in the bracket pictured.
 






1000010243.jpg

This is the part I bought for the mechanic first and he said it wasn't it. So then I sent him a Pic of the AGS poly armor and he said that's not it either. So I'm stumped as to what the part it is he's referring to in the Pic that is circled yellow which he took by the way.
 






Why is he recommending replacement? Because it rusty?
 






When he flushed the brake lines that burst open I believe.
1000010244.jpg
1000010245.jpg
 






This is the part I'm referring to from a better angle circled in yellow. What is it called
1000010247.jpg
and where do I get it?
 






It is part of the 51" brake line shown above. Your mechanic is really a mechanic?

It's such a common item your part store probably has it in stock.hard brake line from side to side rear axle. Need the whole line to get fittings on ends. The metal tabs on the axle housing bend away so the line can be removed and replaaced
 






I would have the "mechanic" put the soft hose on since you already have it, but as both I and Turdle stated, you need the hard line that runs across the axle. It is a single piece and approx 48" long but the closest size I found available locally when I did mine was that 51" piece I linked previously.

 






It is part of the 51" brake line shown above. Your mechanic is really a mechanic?

It's such a common item your part store probably has it in stock.hard brake line from side to side rear axle. Need the whole line to get fittings on ends. The metal tabs on the axle housing bend away so the line can be removed and replaaced
Well he's done an amazing job so far and this was the last thing needed to be done. I hadn't run that truck in 4 years and he got it purring like a kitten. I'm not sure why he says it's not the 51" He says the part is supposed to be bent, so I dunno what he's talking about 🤷‍♂️ I sent him an exact picture of it and that is posted above and he says it's not.
 






Ford does not sell that pre-bent piece, maybe they did 15+ years ago but not now, so you take straight line and bend it to near the shape of the original. It doesn't have to be a perfectly bent match, just up out of the way of the sway bar pictured next to it, and fastened down the same as the old line, so it doesn't rattle around.

It is probably easier to start on the right side that you pictured, bend that as close as you can to the original, then at the other end, or anywhere in between, put a couple extra bends in it to take up a few inches slack. Since the bends do not need to be precise, the piece I linked can be bent by hand without a bending tool, just don't try to do a very sharp bend by hand so that it doesn't collapse the line.

If the mechanic does not have a tubing bending tool but wants to use one, it seems like a reasonable investment considering the low expense, something basic like the following $8 tool should work with the 51" line I linked:

 






Ford does not sell that pre-bent piece, maybe they did 15+ years ago but not now, so you take straight line and bend it to near the shape of the original. It doesn't have to be a perfectly bent match, just up out of the way of the sway bar pictured next to it, and fastened down the same as the old line, so it doesn't rattle around.

It is probably easier to start on the right side that you pictured, bend that as close as you can to the original, then at the other end, or anywhere in between, put a couple extra bends in it to take up a few inches slack. Since the bends to not need to be precise, the piece I linked can be bent by hand, just don't try to do a very sharp bend by hand so that it doesn't collapse the line.

If the mechanic does not have a tubing bending tool, it seems like a reasonable investment considering the low expense, something basic like the following $8 tool will work with the line I linked:

Ok buddy I'll let him know and thanks for all the info 👍
 






This is the part I'm referring to from a better angle circled in yellow. What is it calledView attachment 457622 and where do I get it?
Every auto part store stock brake lines( straight in length) and ( rubber hoses vehicle specific), in different lengths and sizes.
Use copper nickel tubing. Very easy to bend.
A mechanic should be able to bend that line up to match. Its easier to replace the brake hose at the same time.
The brake line on the rear end should be replace completely. Because of the rust. Faster and easier to do. The hoses are $10 each 3, same for the lines 3, plus the mechanic time.
After the dust settles, all your brake lines will need to be replaced some time in the future.
If you need the car, then you just fix what is broke.
If you have the time and money you can, buy pre made line from a online brake line supply company.
 












Every auto part store stock brake lines( straight in length) and ( rubber hoses vehicle specific), in different lengths and sizes.
Use copper nickel tubing. Very easy to bend.
A mechanic should be able to bend that line up to match. Its easier to replace the brake hose at the same time.
The brake line on the rear end should be replace completely. Because of the rust. Faster and easier to do. The hoses are $10 each 3, same for the lines 3, plus the mechanic time.
After the dust settles, all your brake lines will need to be replaced some time in the future.
If you need the car, then you just fix what is broke.
If you have the time and money you can, buy pre made line from a online brake line supply company.
Thank you 👍
 






I agree with this, if that section of line is bad, it's all bad.
I agree but I dont have Kardashian money and I'm still driving around in a 1997 Ford Explorer 😅 I'll take it one at a time buddy but thanks 👍
 






I agree but I dont have Kardashian money and I'm still driving around in a 1997 Ford Explorer 😅 I'll take it one at a time buddy but thanks 👍
We're all struggling right now.
 



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I would have the "mechanic" put the soft hose on since you already have it, but as both I and Turdle stated, you need the hard line that runs across the axle. It is a single piece and approx 48" long but the closest size I found available locally when I did mine was that 51" piece I linked previously.


I forgot to mention that some stores may also stock the 3/16" x 51" pre-made piece in Nickel Copper tubing, which if available at your local store, is what I'd get today instead of the plastic coated steel that I linked above. Either will work but the nickel copper is a little easier to bend and in the long term, more corrosion resistant, though the plastic coated steel linked above will probably outlast the rest of the vehicle anyway.

 






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