Help me!!! Ignition problems!!! 911 911 911 911 911 911

[5150ncali]

1991 4x4 ok i turn the key and the fuel pump runs then twist to start and nothin!!! sometimes it will start but most of the time it doesn't.... i replaced the nuetral safety switch and the fender mount starter solenoid and the ignition switch. i can jump start the truck from the fender mount starter solenoid but from some reason the damn thing doesn't start with the key..

so this is waht i do to start it now...

turn the key on open he hood and jump the starter solenoid close the hood and go...


whats the problem guys help me out here!!!!

 

[boggs1227]

how old are the battery cables .....they tend to corrode inside out ,so it will look ok outside but is shot on the inside.i would check them before ripping off anymore parts and replaceing them .

also it can be many things ...like the starter/solinoid/cables/starter switch etc...

when i bought my x the person who had it before me installed a push button switch below the steering wheel .my key switch is loose and needs to be replaced but still operates like it should ......i guess the people who had it before me figured that it was easier to install a push button on the terminals of the starter solinod plus routing new wire inside the engine compartment than use the key switch that still functioned like it should .

sure was good IQ at work that day

 

[JDraper]

Yep...sounds like internal battery cable corrosion. Common issue in the early Explorers. Cables will look fine on the outside, but have massive corrosion internally. Everything will work on the truck, but it won't start most of the time.

 

[Michiganbear]

ignition switch, not the keylock, but the switch itself.

 

[Blacksheep Josh]

Sounds exactly as others have said, battery cables are corroded. I use to have to do the same thing before I finally replaced them. It's not hard, just make sure you get the right type of gauge wire, and wire that can handle the electrical load.

 

[5150ncali]

i replaced the ignition switch.. twice lol i'll try the cables tomorrow

 

[wood1]

Hook a test light to the small gauge blue/red at the solenoid, the one with the black boot that just pushes on. It should show 12 volts while your helper turns the key to start the engine. If not, look at the ignition switch. If you have a standard transmission, this wire also goes to the clutch switch and you need to push down on the clutch pedal to allow the solenoid to operate.

If you do get 12 volts, check the ground to the solenoid, it must be securely fastened to the body by the mounting screws for the solenoid to operate.

If that seems to work properly and you are getting 12v at that wire and the ground is strong, the solenoid itself may have failed. If you don't hear it click when you turn the key, look at the solenoid itself. Simply shorting across the terminals is still using the same battery and starter cables that you would be using if the solenoid was switching properly when you turn the key.

Do not forget that these vehicles are very well known for internal corrosion in the cables as everyone has said, but some times, just removing everything and cleaning up the contact areas for the terminals will fix starting problems, including the battery posts and ground points.

Good luck.

 

[5150ncali]

ok so i'm jumping it with the screwdriver across the solenoid and it fires fine.. but turning the key does nada.. the solenoid is new just replaced it but i'll try the wire tests oh also i just replaced the ignition switch and still no help...

any more info??? keep it coming please just incase this isn't it

 

[Michiganbear]

assuming the neutral switch (or clutch switch with a manual) and ignition switch are good, then all you can have is a bad wire/connection somewhere in the circuit between the battery and the starter relay.

the circuit is basically this:

battery (unswitched) to the ign switch to the neutral switch to the starter relay.

if you need more precise info, I can get it from my 92 manual. should be the same.

 

[wood1]

Are you getting 12 volts at the blue/red?

 

[5150ncali]

All i have is a test light and no second set of hands available right now... But its pissin me off lol... All my tools are locked up in storage really far away right now..

 

[5150ncali]

ok got a neighbor and his voltage reader and yes i have power at the turn of the key but no click in the solenoid so now what??? an yes i replaced the solenoid ??

so ???????

 

[boggs1227]

hey ...sorry your still haveing problems with this but just some food for thought ...... it's just a idea mind you but did you read the lower part of my reply here ? they installed a starter push button switch on mine ( rubber cap little more than 1/2 inch tall off the mounting surface ..not bad looking) .

what i'm trying to say that if you can't solve this ...that may be a option for you .mine before i ripped it all out i could just turn the key to on then hit the button ( simple operation) .


good luck

also ...... is'nt there a rod that comes off the key lock and goes to the actual switch ? that rod may be bent and or is worn to such to make it not work the starter switch operate correctlly ?

 

[5150ncali]

That is my last resort.. And the rod is straight and moves the switch fine i tested the ignition switch wire at the solenoid and it sends signal for my test light ...

 

[5150ncali]

But just in case i get so tired of figuring this out how do i change it over to push button

 

[boggs1227]

the button has 2 connections just run it to both the big posts on the solinoid ( the ones with big hex nuts) ...just like putting the screwdriver across them to start except it now runs to a switch.just remember to use big enough wire to make your run from the switch to the the solinoid .

 

[5150ncali]

i think i might just do this .. but i still would like to know why its not working you know...

 

[Michiganbear]

ok, you have 12v at the wire to activate the starter solenoid. is that with the wire attached (pull the connector a little bit out so that you can check at the post itself), or with the connector all the way off?

if its with the connector all the way off, you have a bad connection (resistive) or bad cables on the batt. either of these will allow the low current (way less than 1 amp)test light to be normal, but put the higher current (probably at least 1 amp) the solenoid draws will cause the voltage to drop too low to pull in the solenoid. Also, a voltmeter will be extremly low current draw (even compared to the test light).

This is EXACTLY the problem my 92 is doing, but I KNOW I have a bad battery to change out first, before I start chasing down the problem further.

 

[Michiganbear]

as far as bypassing the ign and neutral switch, all you need to do is run a wire from unswitched 12v thru a pushbutton (momentary contact) switch, to the small post on the solenoid your using to start it at this time.

 

[boggs1227]

this is the type of push button they used on mine