Helpful thread, for squeak, squeal, chirp noise from V8 and OHV v6 engine compartment

[Ford Fan]

Any thoughts

Hello, I just replaced this part and now my truck is running like crap. It's lacking power, seems to have a miss and is giving code P0304(cyl 4 misfire). I followed the directions to replace the synchronizer, so I'm not sure what's wrong. The only thing I did different was when I found TDC I noticed the allignment tool did not line up, so I turned the engine over a little further until it did. Then I removed and replaced the synchronizer. Now I'm not sure if I should take it apart and reinstall it at TDC. The truck seemed to run fine before, it was just making noise. I'm not sure if it matters, but the engine has 145,000 miles on it. Does anyone have any advice? I would appreciate the help.

 

[rickb928]

Gonna have to re-time the engine

Sounds like you're gonna have to re-time it. The instructions don't specifically say to not move the crank, but if the tool didn't line up, turning the engine over won't be the fix by itself. It will be a pain to get it right.

On the bright side, most people I've talked to that had that happen couldn't even start the engine. So it isn't too far off.

 

[Ford Fan]

Well, I also replaced the lower intake gasket and after reading some post on this site I have found that a bad gasket causes that code. Now I'm not sure what to try. I can't believe there is no way to verify the timing.

 

[Eric P]

Thanks Guys for this great resource !! My 1998 Mazda B-4000 had this issue. The part from NAPA fit right in and fixed it. They didn't show one for the Mazda, so I had them order the one for a Ranger the same year.
NAPA part number BK600-2906. It came with an installation tool and sensor. I think it came up to about $53.00 out the door. :rangerred:

 

[David Suesz]

Well, I also replaced the lower intake gasket and after reading some post on this site I have found that a bad gasket causes that code. Now I'm not sure what to try. I can't believe there is no way to verify the timing.

There is. Statically. Move the crank to TDC, and rotate the synchronizer using the tool to set the synchronizer position. Piece of cake. The computer "tunes" the spark depending on circumstances, but it does this based on an assumption that the cam sensor is at zeroed out at TDC. If you don't set this, the cam sensor will be lying to the computer.

Tool:

Bottom view:

 

[Rooster-Alpha]

'99 4.0 OHV = 3 pin correct?

 

[David Suesz]

'99 4.0 OHV = 3 pin correct?

Never worked on a 4.0. The pic that's upside down is the proper 5.0 tool.

 

[Rooster-Alpha]

Could i do it this way.

1. Remove inlet plenim

2. Remove wire connector to CMP cap

3. Remove CMP cap

3. Place removal tool onto CMP

4. Rotate crankshaft (to find TDC) until removal tool locks onto position on top of CMP

5. Remove hold down bolt then remove CMP

6. Replace new CMP with Tool fitted

7. Refit hold down bolt and remove Tool

8. Refit CMP cap

9. Refit wire connector

10. Refit Plenim

The point i am trying to make here is at number 4. Obviously the Tool is not going to fit onto the CMP if the crank shaft is not at TDC. By turning the Crankshaft until the tool fits snug would do it right.

Any takers on this one.

Correct me if I'm wrong but, when using this method you still have to make sure your on the compression stroke correct? Since you'll be at TDC twice in a cycle just holding the tool there and turning the crankshaft yields a 50/50 shot at being on the compression stroke when the tool pops in there.

Like the flip of a coin.

 

[Turdle]

Could i do it this way.

1. Remove inlet plenim

2. Remove wire connector to CMP cap

3. Remove CMP cap

3. Place removal tool onto CMP

4. Rotate crankshaft (to find TDC) until removal tool locks onto position on top of CMP

5. Remove hold down bolt then remove CMP

6. Replace new CMP with Tool fitted

7. Refit hold down bolt and remove Tool

8. Refit CMP cap

9. Refit wire connector

10. Refit Plenim

The point i am trying to make here is at number 4. Obviously the Tool is not going to fit onto the CMP if the crank shaft is not at TDC. By turning the Crankshaft until the tool fits snug would do it right.

Any takers on this one.

Provided the sensor is in good order-this will work great. If the sensor is being replaced because it is noisy there should be no problem

If the sensor flag is bent up badly, then you might have a bit of alignment error.



The CMP makes one revolution for every 2 revolutions of the crankshaft, so yes this will work. You will be at TDC compression on #1 with the tool aligned to the old, still secured sensor.

 

[David Suesz]

Correct me if I'm wrong but, when using this method you still have to make sure your on the compression stroke correct? Since you'll be at TDC twice in a cycle just holding the tool there and turning the crankshaft yields a 50/50 shot at being on the compression stroke when the tool pops in there.

Like the flip of a coin.

No, because you can see the crescent-shaped sensor flag on the top of the synchronizer shaft. Look at it, and the tool, and it will be immediately obvious if you are right or 180° off.

 

[Rooster-Alpha]

Okay, cool. I was under the impression that the CMP and camshaft turned at an equal ratio. That will make this super easy.

 

[Turdle]

Okay, cool. I was under the impression that the CMP and camshaft turned at an equal ratio. That will make this super easy.

The CMP and Camshaft do turn at the same rate.

The crankshaft turns 2 times for every 1 of the Camshaft.

This is why it is important to have #1 at the top of the compression stroke.

 

[Rooster-Alpha]

The CMP and Camshaft do turn at the same rate.

The crankshaft turns 2 times for every 1 of the Camshaft.

This is why it is important to have #1 at the top of the compression stroke.

oh, ok then. I just had it backwards : embarrassing

 

[96turbo_nut]

What did i do wrong? I set #1, pulled old syncro, new part went in with a little effort, fired right up no squeel, BUT no oil pressure.
so i pulled it down again when i went to line up the tool the rotor was not turning and now i can't get the syncro back out.
please be gentle as this is my first post and thanks in advance.

 

[David Suesz]

Uh Oh. You will need to tap, wiggle, etc., the sych to get it out. You may have dropped the oil shaft when you pulled the old one out. Get the new one out, and take a look. If you're lucky, it's still there, only not inserted in the drive socket on the pump.

 

[96turbo_nut]

I have pecked, pulled, pryed , twisted and cussed (alot). it will move up about 1/8 inch. the shaft was in the hole when i looked, was i supposed to pull it out and reinsert them together?

 

[David Suesz]

I have pecked, pulled, pryed , twisted and cussed (alot). it will move up about 1/8 inch. the shaft was in the hole when i looked, was i supposed to pull it out and reinsert them together?

No, the oil drive shaft is supposed to have a collar on it to prevent it coming out, and the collar is supposed to be far enough up to prevent the shaft from coming out of the pump, but…

It sounds like the sychro is coming up until that collar hits the block. Yikes. If you cannot persuade the syncho to come out, the only other choice is to remove the oil pan to allow access to the oil pump. Not an attractive choice.

 

[Mikeri]

18k miles later, my Dorman Cam Snyc gear is fine. Forgot I replaced it.

 

[96turbo_nut]

update

Just to update, i ended up using a slide hammer to persuade it a little and it came out.this time the shaft came out with it, and it had sheered the pin for the drive gear.
i bought another unit and compared the 2 and found the hex hole on the bottom was full of junk like a cheap reman. new part slid right in and back on the road like it was supposed to the first time thank to all.

 

[X6StringerX]

For those of you that are interested, I recently made a thread about replacing my CMP. In it, I compare a Dorman remanufactured unit to a new Motorcraft part. Also, the sound I was experiencing wasn't the usual bird chirping sound. In the beginning of the thread, I have a video of my Explorer running. On page 2, I have a video of the bad camshaft synchronizer after it was removed. Here's the link:

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums//showthread.php?t=260979