How do we know if we need new ball joints?

[arseatea]

Took my 04 Sport Trac to the alignment shop and the mechanic took a long bar, put it between the wheel and a hard place and lifted the wheels about a half inch or so. There was definite moved up and down in the lower joints. Left side a little more than the right. He said they were shot and he could not do an alignment until they were replaced to the tune of about $400. I have done ball joints before, but I am just too old and tired to mess with it. I would pay the $400 if I truly need new joints. And he said that the upper control arms may be bad too. I think that reading between the lines, he is saying they will be bad too. Should I take his word that the ball joints need replacement or should I search for another alignment shop?

 

[shucker1]

I would get a second opinion but that is one way to check them.

I usually put a jack under the control arm to unload the spring tension on the assembly and pull the wheel top to bottom while watching for movement.

Any later shift in the ball end tells me they are bad.

How many miles on your truck?

 

[arseatea]

Lot of miles. 175,000. I think I do need to take it to another shop and let them look at it, but I am convinced that it needs lowers. Not so sure about uppers. I may just watch YouTube over and over and do it myself, against my wife's better judgement. She wants me to just have it done and be done with it. Women...

 

[shucker1]

It's a pretty labor intensive job if you have never done it before.

 

[arseatea]

It's a pretty labor intensive job if you have never done it before.

I did a top and bottom ball joint replacement a couple of months ago on a Ranger that I owned with a tool borrowed from Advance Auto parts. The only thing really difficult was getting rusty bolts out and cold garage, which I will not have this time. But, I may have a money pit here. Now I find that my radiator has a hairline crack on the rt side plastic. I looked at RockAuto and for as little as $83, they have several of different size cores, one is: !" top and bottom, one is 2" top and bottom, another is 1" core, and another is 2 1/4" core. I'd like to have the radiator here to install immediately, but not sure which one I need. Anyone know which one? If necessary, I will just pull the old one out and wait for delivery.

 

[koda2000]

If the rubber boots are gone you need ball joints. If there's play/movement (as you described) you need ball joints. If they squeak or clunk you need ball joints. I've replaced 6 sets of ball joints recently. I'm old and tired too, but i'm not ready to pay someone $250 labor to do the job. At 175k miles you're certainly due for ball joints.

 

[429CJ-3X2]

As for the radiator, go with the one that's 2" top and bottom. That one has a 2" core vs 1" core with the 1" top and bottom, but the side tanks are the same on both, so they fit the truck exactly the same. I ran into the same confusion when my '01 needed a radiator two years ago until I read the options very carefully for the 4th or 5th time. Once I had that figured out, the very minimal price difference made it a no-brainer.

 

[ptf18]

arseatea: Gee... "I'm your huckleberry". About 1 1/2 months ago I replaced the radiator in the wife's "02 due to a hairline crack just under the upper hose "spout". I asked the same questions here as you are asking and received the same GREAT replies you are getting. In the end I purchased a new MOTORCRAFT unit from Rock Auto as the wife is insistent on keeping the vehicle (she bought it NEW in '02). $400- $500.

Good decision????? Pricey but the Ford OEM unit lasted 16 years. Will this one last that long??? Don't know but I have a "happy wife" and that's worth something. Really depends on how long you plan on keeping the vehicle.

I'ld also recommend changing out the upper and lower hoses if they are as old as the vehicle... Motorcraft of course.

Oh... I changed out ALL the B.J.'s this past fall due to the boots being GONE. Used greaseable MOOG units. 1st time I have ever done something like that....Rent the correct tools and its not a big deal.

Currently I have a thermostat housing leak. I suspect its from the fact that when I changed out the upper hose I "wiggled" the hose alot to both remove it and install the new one which in turn "wiggled" the plastic T-stat housing where its secure to the block..... thus a leak. I'm in the process of changing the OEM plastic assembly to the after-market metal unit.

You might want to do a coolant system clean and flush if you haven't during the Ford recommended cycle before you change things out.

$$$$, you bet.... have you gone "shopping" lately for a vehicle similar to the S/T???? $$$$$$

 

[arseatea]

I can get all 4 from Rock Auto for about $100 and still get the tool from Advanced to install them.

 

[arseatea]

arseatea: Gee... "I'm your huckleberry". About 1 1/2 months ago I replaced the radiator in the wife's "02 due to a hairline crack just under the upper hose "spout". I asked the same questions here as you are asking and received the same GREAT replies you are getting. In the end I purchased a new MOTORCRAFT unit from Rock Auto as the wife is insistent on keeping the vehicle (she bought it NEW in '02). $400- $500.

Good decision????? Pricey but the Ford OEM unit lasted 16 years. Will this one last that long??? Don't know but I have a "happy wife" and that's worth something. Really depends on how long you plan on keeping the vehicle.

I'ld also recommend changing out the upper and lower hoses if they are as old as the vehicle... Motorcraft of course.

Oh... I changed out ALL the B.J.'s this past fall due to the boots being GONE. Used greaseable MOOG units. 1st time I have ever done something like that....Rent the correct tools and its not a big deal.

Currently I have a thermostat housing leak. I suspect its from the fact that when I changed out the upper hose I "wiggled" the hose alot to both remove it and install the new one which in turn "wiggled" the plastic T-stat housing where its secure to the block..... thus a leak. I'm in the process of changing the OEM plastic assembly to the after-market metal unit.

You might want to do a coolant system clean and flush if you haven't during the Ford recommended cycle before you change things out.

$$$$, you bet.... have you gone "shopping" lately for a vehicle similar to the S/T???? $$$$$$

That area around the hose bib must be a weak spot as I read where someone else had the same problem. I bought a radiator from Advance for $160 because it had a lifetime warranty. It should not be such a problem to install. I stopped at another local repair shop to get a barnyard estimate on BJ installations and he said $200 each, or $800 for all 4. How does a mechanic justify over $100/hour. When I retired 15 years ago, I was making $18/hour and happy to get it. So, I am buying the same BJ's as you and will take the truck to my brother's place (He has a lift and all the tools) to install as he has a lot of experience with these things on several Rangers that he and his grandson have owned. He cautioned me against buying the cheapie joints and directed me to Moog too. Thanks for the good advice. As far as getting another vehicle, I just bought this one 3 weeks ago and it appeared to be in great shape. No rust anywhere, but a little cosmetic damage here and there. I think once I put a thou or so into it, I will be happy with it.