How should I fix fuel line leak?

[Stick_man]

I have been smelling gas from the car a few days now.

I see a leaky metal line on the drivers side--almost exactly where the front door and front side fender meet.

The line is held by a littl black clip which appears to be causing the leak.

It is wet in this area; when I touch it and smell the fluid it smells like gas, and the little puddle it leaves also smells like gas.

A shop actually replaced the entire fuel line about 9 years or so ago when they broke it trying to replace a fuel filter.

Anyway how should i fix this?

 

[dubbio]

cut the bad spot out, put a little hose and a couple clamps on it

 

[MillerAPF97XLT]

Just my opinion, but with the pressures involved with fuel injection, I might try to cut the break out, flare both ends and join them with a union. That said, my VW Fox has fuel injection and every hose connection uses hose clamps. But they're clamped past barbs in the lines, filters, pumps, etc. Maybe you could flare barbs in the ends of your line and use hose rated for fuel injection. Again, just my $0.02; your mileage may vary. - Chris

 

[Stick_man]

cut the bad spot out, put a little hose and a couple clamps on it

The shop tried did this 9 years ago. ie just use a hose and clamps.

I was going to do my own tune up shortly after and was at the stealers buying motorcraft wires and mentioned it to them. They didn't like the idea because of the pressure involved, and thought it was a half ass repair. I agreed with them and took it back to get a real fuel line.

Although at this point I might as well -- another fuel line sounds ridics at his point.

 

[Stick_man]

What can i cut it with? (besides a tube cutter--I don't Have one)

 

[Mr. Alligator]

Cut metal fuel line?

You could also cut it with a hack saw, but I really would be concerned about the presence of fuel when I did that! I would replace the entire section of line. Then you know it will be safe, and withstand fuel injection pressures.

Good luck with your project.

 

[MillerAPF97XLT]

I'm in agreement with Alligator, Stick-man. Hacksaw is a possible choice, if you're going the hose route with no flaring. Perhaps you have a parts store that "rents" tools - my local stores do that. If so, you could use a flaring kit with a MINI tubing cutter, that would only need 1 to 1-1/2 inches between the line and the frame to pass between. I would avoid the temptation to use a Dremel tool, so we don't end up reading about you in the news (you know, the whole "sparks and gasoline" thing)! In the end, even if you're going to fix it with hose (and I probably would, too, to tell the truth), I think you'll be happier with the injection-rated hose and with flaring bulbs (not barbs, like I stated in an earlier reply) to help keep the hose on. Think about replacing the factory clamp with something that will keep the line secure but not try to pinch it off or cut through it. I use Adel clamps for that kind of stuff. Let us know what you do and how it works out. And stay safe! - Chris

 

[MillerAPF97XLT]

Hey, Stick - Just having noted your location, you may wind up chasing more and more "rust-through" leaks. I'm betting the shop that replaced the line cheaped out and used a steel line rather than a stainless one (if a stainless one was available). Now, any moisture that gets trapped between a metal clamp and the line is causing rust to eat through the line, not the (probably) black plastic-coated clamp holding it in place. Might want to save up to eventually replace with something more durable if you're planning to keep the truck for a while.
BTW, my wife and I visited your fine city on our honeymoon. Just stayed a day, so didn't get to see much, but enjoyed what we DID see. We've promised ourselves a return trip soon. Nice place; keep up the good work! - Chris

 

[Stick_man]

Thanks all for the replies. But I just spent yesterday and today with a hacksaw on an old broken sway bar link. I'm not about to start again on a fuel line! I just took it to a shop. Between the cutter tool which would about 40 bucks plus and other supplies, it just doesn't seem worth it with gas involved

 

[bluestream1]

You can buy a mini tube cutter for $2 and Walmart or any hardware store. This is the only thing to use and never use a hack saw on fuel line.

 

[dubbio]

i keep hearing the pressure thing, but its typically 50psi tops. the replacement fpr my brother got for his b2 came with clamps. for brakes or something with real hydraulic pressure id agree, go with flare fittings, but on fuel lines ive seen plenty of fixes with hose clamps hold on just fine. maybe flare the end just slightly, if youre **** double up on the clamps.

 

[bluestream1]

I've done many if these repairs and never an issue. I use the fuel injection hose and put two clamps on each end. never bother to flare the ends.

 

[Robman]

Waterloo eh Bluestream? ..

I was just in Cambridge for some Harveys

 

[bluestream1]

No Harvey's where you live?

 

[Robman]

Not really..

Cambridge/Ancaster and Waterdown are all pretty much the same distance from me.

Fun Fact though... I bought my Explorer from a guy in Waterloo, never did end up receiving the second set of keys

 

[C420sailor]

...and never use a hack saw on fuel line.

Unless you like to live dangerously. Used a sawzall to cut a full (but de-pressurized) fuel line as it exited the pump. I went nice and slow, and it smoked a touch...but didn't ignite.

One of these days I'm going to win a Darwin Award.

 

[koda2000]

Safety third...

I would never cut a fuel line with any type of blade or cutting wheel. In addition to the fire risk you'll probably get some small metal filings in the line and it doesn't take much to screw up a fuel injector. If you're before the filter I guess that isn't an issue. I would use a mini tubing cutter (which will be harder to do on stainless line), maybe flare the ends slightly and use FI rubber fuel line with FI hose clamps to me safe.

To minimize the risk of fire/explosion I use a fan to blow away any fumes when needing to use electric tools around fuel or batteries. It's the fumes you have to worry about. I did this when cutting the rusted-solid hose clamps off my fill and vent tubes with my Dremel.

 

[bluestream1]

Be careful using electric fans near gas fumes....they have electric arc where the brushes meet the commutator.

 

[Turdle]

The fuel lines are in sections. There is about a 3 foot section from filter to wheel well, I believe this is where your leak is, or possibly at the connector? You might be able to take the connector apart and replace the o rings if it is the connection which is leaking. If it is the line leaking, you can get another at a junk yard. ford price for this chunk of fuel line, if you can find it is over 250.00

Hopefully, the connector end on the line going to the fuel rail is not damaged. If it is, the fuel filter line will not seal into it.


edit. Your 1998 should have a return fuel line also, you might check if it is the return line which is leaking. A picture sure would help. Make an account on photobucket, store your picture there and then post a link to that picture please.

 

[acrx7]

I have been smelling gas from the car a few days now.

I see a leaky metal line on the drivers side--almost exactly where the front door and front side fender meet.

The line is held by a littl black clip which appears to be causing the leak.

It is wet in this area; when I touch it and smell the fluid it smells like gas, and the little puddle it leaves also smells like gas.

A shop actually replaced the entire fuel line about 9 years or so ago when they broke it trying to replace a fuel filter.

Anyway how should i fix this?

Hi there Stick_Man , if it was my car/truck I would replace it , you'll be surprise that the lines may not be that expensive , besides if they don't have clamps is for a reason , not worth the headaches fixing I would replace even from a junk yard , my 2 cents