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How to: 4x4 high in a 95-96 4x4 Explorer

www.waytekwire.com has a nice assortment.... I know I had another one bookmarked, but I think it was on the other computer. I'm a huge fan of the Contura V series rockers made by Carling Technologies.

-Joe
 



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cculter said:
Does this mod work on AWD veichles? I think mine is not fully engaging.

No.
 






Hi Guys, one question, the cable to the ttc is the one that make the 4x4hi or is the other one? want to know because I wanto to make a nice install whith led and 4X4Hi/Lo
2WD/Lo
4X4auto/Lo
on a custom dash
and need to know what cable do what...

Thx
 






yeah as you could see in the first couple posts the TCC is thewire that goes to the drivers side that is the wire that you cut and put the two wires on either side and led's would look really cool. I am going with the eaiser toggle switch that does nothing light wise and whiter is very boring get red or blue or hell green.
 






I want to use a reley to activate the switching. To convert to 4 high you just apply 12v to the TCC coil( wire going to the drivers side.) Then you also need to activate the factory switch, to engage the front axle.
Is there anyway to bypass the axle engage. and have one switch to do everything. Like a real 4x4 system should.


Thanks
Tim
 






Say if I wanted the same options as a 97 - 01 Explorer,, Auto, 4WD High 4WD low, Without doing any brown wire mods. How much stuff would I have to switch out? Could it be costly?
 






Why dont you just do the brown wire mod? It was easy as hell. Its the same mechanical parts anyways.
 






I dont want 2 switches. Just want one.


rfuree11 said:
Why dont you just do the brown wire mod? It was easy as hell. Its the same mechanical parts anyways.
 






You can't. (not easily anyways) You'd have to swap out GEM modules which would require EXTENSIVE re-wiring and re-pinning to get it to work, IF you could get it to work at all.

The logic behind doing so doesn't make any sense to me. Let's see.... I can run four wires and splice in a brown wire switch that will give me full-time 4wd with a 2low option, or I can spend tons of time re-wiring the GEM (to the tune of 100 wires or so) that may or may not work with the older system components (switches, relays, door locks, wipers, turn signals, etc). It's not just a matter of swapping out the switch. In fact, internally, the switches are identical. The labels are different on the outside. The difference is in how the GEM is programmed to interpret the signal from the switch, and how it controls the TOD relay.

The anti-brown-wire-mod is honestly the way to go to get what you want. I'm sure that, with enough time, money, and perseverence, anything is possible. I also know that I wouldn't try it myself. No way, jose!!

-Joe
 






I didnt figure it would be that involved. Well looks like my next project will be the brown wire mod. I just gotta wait until my good old friend Izackary to pay a visit to VT.


gijoecam said:
You can't. (not easily anyways) You'd have to swap out GEM modules which would require EXTENSIVE re-wiring and re-pinning to get it to work, IF you could get it to work at all.

The logic behind doing so doesn't make any sense to me. Let's see.... I can run four wires and splice in a brown wire switch that will give me full-time 4wd with a 2low option, or I can spend tons of time re-wiring the GEM (to the tune of 100 wires or so) that may or may not work with the older system components (switches, relays, door locks, wipers, turn signals, etc). It's not just a matter of swapping out the switch. In fact, internally, the switches are identical. The labels are different on the outside. The difference is in how the GEM is programmed to interpret the signal from the switch, and how it controls the TOD relay.

The anti-brown-wire-mod is honestly the way to go to get what you want. I'm sure that, with enough time, money, and perseverence, anything is possible. I also know that I wouldn't try it myself. No way, jose!!

-Joe
 






I am going to do the brown wire mod when the weather gets a bit better. I am just wondeerring were evreybody put the switch for it. Also was there any down side to the way that limited did it??
 






I've seen people put it in the ashtray, Mount it somplace.


SkanlaxJMO said:
I am going to do the brown wire mod when the weather gets a bit better. I am just wondeerring were evreybody put the switch for it. Also was there any down side to the way that limited did it??
 






SkanlaxJMO said:
I am going to do the brown wire mod when the weather gets a bit better. I am just wondeerring were evreybody put the switch for it. Also was there any down side to the way that limited did it??


only downside to my way is..that i dont have 2wdlow...but i dont need/care about that. all i wanted was true 4x4.. :D
 






Alright I got a question, I did the brown wire mod last night, but I cut the wire below the split of the two wires. Is this right? It lokks wrong from what I have read above. yet it seems like it worked. I can feel a differance.

Here is where I put my switch though ;)

Switch.jpg
 






I take it you have no rear washer anymore?

If you clipped the lower wire coming up from the Transfer Case Shift Relay, the BWM switch should work with the OEM switch set to 4 high, but only if the ControlTrac disables the Torque On Demand relay in 4x4high (I've heard that some years may, some years may not). 4auto should still work as normal though. The wire you clipped feeds power from the transfer case shift relay to the splice in the dash, which then feeds down to the t-case.

-Joe
 






gijoecam said:
I take it you have no rear washer anymore?

If you clipped the lower wire coming up from the Transfer Case Shift Relay, the BWM switch should work with the OEM switch set to 4 high, but only if the ControlTrac disables the Torque On Demand relay in 4x4high (I've heard that some years may, some years may not). 4auto should still work as normal though. The wire you clipped feeds power from the transfer case shift relay to the splice in the dash, which then feeds down to the t-case.

-Joe


I want to disable the Auto feature, I am doind a SAS, so I don't want the front D-shaft moving unless I say so. I put in a lighted swich and you can watch it light up when there is torque. My truck has the Auto/4H/4L switch. It doe s feel like the front axle in not live though when I switch the switch.


as for the rear wiper, I had to take the arm off when I put on my rear bumper, because it fits that close to the body(rounded cars these days :rolleyes: ) I still need to romove everting from the door though.
 






There's a simple way to find out: Switch it into 4 low, switch the BWM switch to off, and try and do a brake stand. If the BWM mod actually worked, you should be able to roast the rear tires. Low Range 2wd is great for that! (Of course, I don't recommend it :wink: :wink: )

-Joe
 






so..

Ok, so this is probably one of the coolest mod's Ive seen in a while. But I have a few question's, some things aren't really clear here...I understand that you cut the TCC wire (which is brown) and run both ends to the switch, but then the "existing brown" wire goes to the switch too...what wire is this? Isn't that the one we just cut?

Question 2: I want the ability to have 2 low as well as 4hi, so does this mean i have to have a 6 prong switch with On-off-On capabilities, or can i have a 3 pronged switch?

Question 3: I saw here that Stic-O put in a lighted switch, and it lights up when there is torque...how does that work and what does that mean, when there is torque where? Can I do that if I want 2Low, is there such a switch with a light in it?

thanks a lot, i appreciate you clarifying all this for me and the others in the future that may have these questions...
 



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baff2004 said:
Ok, so this is probably one of the coolest mod's Ive seen in a while. But I have a few question's, some things aren't really clear here...I understand that you cut the TCC wire (which is brown) and run both ends to the switch, but then the "existing brown" wire goes to the switch too...what wire is this? Isn't that the one we just cut?

For yours, both brown wires will go to the switch, and you'll need a third wire from another power source. I used the cigarette lighter since it was handy. The circuit simply needs to be able to support 4-6 additional amps of current draw without blowing the fuse. The cigarette lighter is usually rated for 15 or 20A.

Question 2: I want the ability to have 2 low as well as 4hi, so does this mean i have to have a 6 prong switch with On-off-On capabilities, or can i have a 3 pronged switch?

A 3-prong switch will work fine, as long as it's an on-off-on switch. single pole versus double pole makes no difference. Both types will work, again, as long as it's an on-off-on.


Question 3: I saw here that Stic-O put in a lighted switch, and it lights up when there is torque...how does that work and what does that mean, when there is torque where? Can I do that if I want 2Low, is there such a switch with a light in it?

Stic-o has a 99... it works differently and, therefore, needs to be wired differently than your 95.

To use a lighted switch on yours, you would need a DPDT switch where the LED is only controlled by one set of poles, and those are rare and expensive. Carling Technologies could probably make one, but you'd need to buy a dozen or so, and they'll run about $14-$18 each. If it's that important, I'd be happy to help you get what you need, but it's not going to be easy... On the 99s it's simple.... not so simple for the 95 and 96, but not impossible.

FWIW, it could also be done with a non-lighted switch and a separate dual-color LED. Again, not as simple, bet definately do-able. Just depends on how much time you want to spend wiring it.

thanks a lot, i appreciate you clarifying all this for me and the others in the future that may have these questions...

No prob-lem-o!! Happy to help!

-Joe
 






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