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How to disable factory alarm?


larrydd999

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City, State
Port Angeles, WA
Year, Model & Trim Level
92 XLT, 94 Limited
For what it's worth, on my '94 Limited the alarm module inside the back left panel looks to be an OEM installation. There are no cut/spliced wires in the area and the plugs come directly off a wiring harness that continues farther back - I assume to the tail lights, rear washer/wiper, etc. I also disconnected the alarm by removing the forward plug and everything - except the alarm - still works, including the keyfob remote lock. The harness on my '92 XLT is quite different and has neither an alarm nor any unused plugs in the area.
 


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TexasTurkey

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Year, Model & Trim Level
1994 explorer
Ford put the wiring in with the plugs for the units which have their logo on them and they changed the plugs and exterior of the units from year to year --mainly just re-arranged the wires on the plugs--if yours is a 94 you likely have a unit in the wiring above your left foot which is where the splicing took place--they cut into the wires going to the ignition and starter--I found mine by looking at a wiring diagram to find the wires that worked the starter and ignition after I read about how it was put in on a different thread on this forum--I just figured out which color wire should have been cut been cut --then looked for that color going into a taped splice with a different color wire --then I looked for the same wire in another taped splice and unhooked the splices and joined the wires back together removing the spliced wires that I could trace back to the alarm unit--there were just so many I quit when I got the truck to start and run--my windows still work but my electric locks don't--I looks in the rear panels but found nothing on my truck--
 




trozei123

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Year, Model & Trim Level
1992 Explorer XLT 4x4
I am having a problem with my 92 explorer alarm. my keyless entry is wired into the alarm box. so i would have to hit the unlock button to disarm the system to start the engine, even when the doors were unlocked (the alarm would arm itself after a few seconds). I removed the starter wire connector and put in a small wire to bridge them together. Engine starts up everytime now. Problem is, the alarm will go off. I found two blue fuses leading to the alarm box. One fuse kills power to the door locks, and the other kills power to the whole system. How can I get my keyless entry working again? Can I remove the door connector from the alarm and bridge those four wires?
 




TexasTurkey

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1994 explorer
If you are willing to completely do away with the alarm sound mine had a fuse going to the alarm horn under the hood and I simply took out the fuse disabling only the noise maker
 




larrydd999

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City, State
Port Angeles, WA
Year, Model & Trim Level
92 XLT, 94 Limited
The last time I looked key fobs were available for around $10-15 on EBay. I purchased one for our '94 Limited a couple of years ago and the programming is fairly simple. You can have two key fobs programmed for one vehicle.
 




TexasTurkey

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I am having a problem with my 92 explorer alarm. my keyless entry is wired into the alarm box. so i would have to hit the unlock button to disarm the system to start the engine, even when the doors were unlocked (the alarm would arm itself after a few seconds). I removed the starter wire connector and put in a small wire to bridge them together. Engine starts up everytime now. Problem is, the alarm will go off. I found two blue fuses leading to the alarm box. One fuse kills power to the door locks, and the other kills power to the whole system. How can I get my keyless entry working again? Can I remove the door connector from the alarm and bridge those four wires?
I think you are also reading the other thread with the diagram showing the connector and listing which wires went where--the are about 4 or 5 different pins going to something in the door lock system--you likely have to find each connection taking the alarm completely out of the circuit by patching the wires back together--It just wasn't worth the trouble to me--once I got the car to start and run I just unplugged the alarm box and removed it but my door locks are manual now
 




trozei123

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Year, Model & Trim Level
1992 Explorer XLT 4x4
I think you are also reading the other thread with the diagram showing the connector and listing which wires went where--the are about 4 or 5 different pins going to something in the door lock system--you likely have to find each connection taking the alarm completely out of the circuit by patching the wires back together--It just wasn't worth the trouble to me--once I got the car to start and run I just unplugged the alarm box and removed it but my door locks are manual now
I have been reading another post about the alarm. Here's the link to it. http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=364007 Right away, I followed that guys tip of removing the starter wire from the alarm and bridging it. I found a simple paper clip did the job perfectly. Now the main issue is that when I go to start the engine, it will fire up easily, but the alarm goes off. I would have to hit the unlock button on the fob to deactivate it. I tried removing each of the two fuses leading from the alarm box. one fuse kills power to the keyless entry. the other kills power to the keyless entry and the alarm. I am wondering if I could get the keyless entry to work. I have thought of cutting the two wires labeled "siren" and seeing if that will work. But I also thought maybe I could unplug the connector that is for the keyless entry and bridge the wires together. Any ideas?
 




TexasTurkey

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On my vehicle the alarm horn was on the firewall by the master cylinder --could you simply unscrew the horn from it's mounting and break it's ground--that might stop it from sounding and leave your other connections alone--the other horns on most cars work because the horns are grounded
 




trozei123

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Year, Model & Trim Level
1992 Explorer XLT 4x4
On my vehicle the alarm horn was on the firewall by the master cylinder --could you simply unscrew the horn from it's mounting and break it's ground--that might stop it from sounding and leave your other connections alone--the other horns on most cars work because the horns are grounded
It worked! my horn must be like yours. same place you described. no more sound. thanks a million!
 




evil_1

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2002
Ok, if the OEM alarm is malfunctioning now,
(car horn blarring and head lights flashing)
odds are, it will again.

Get out some basic install tools or get
a friend or a good technician
in there to do this.

Normally, you would insert the key in
the drivers door, turn left, then right
to disarm and reset it. If yours is malfunctioning,
you can disable it for good by doing the following:

The FACTORY ALARM DISARM WIRE IS
dk. green/purple |- | in the drivers door harness.
|- negative polarity|.

Once Located, splice into this wire with
a simular guage wire, and put it to
a solid chassis ground. This terminates
the OEM alarm functions entirely.
 




evil_1

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2002
Ok, if the OEM alarm is malfunctioning now,
(car horn blarring and head lights flashing)
odds are, it will again.

Get out some basic install tools or get
a friend or a good technician
in there to do this.

Normally, you would insert the key in
the drivers door, turn left, then right
to disarm and reset it. If yours is malfunctioning,
you can disable it for good by doing the following:

The FACTORY ALARM DISARM WIRE IS
dk. green/purple |- | in the drivers door harness.
|- negative polarity|.

Once Located, splice into this wire with
a simular guage wire, and put it to
a solid chassis ground. This terminates
the OEM alarm functions entirely.
 




twirlyboggs

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ghosttrain2, YOU ARE THE HERO !!! IJUST FOUND THIS 4-30-15!!!
everyone kept sayin how it wasn't possible! I didn't want to experiment and fry something,,,,,YOU are the reason my baby isn;t in the yard just sitting there lonely!!!
THANK YOU !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 




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