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How to: Explorer LED Interior swap + Puddle Lamps DIY

I have never used a load resistor when working with LED lights and never had an issue. Recently bought a 2011 Explorer and put in some LED lights yesterday and am having issues with the 3rd row dome light. This may be a stupid question but how do you exactly put a load resistor on a light without soldering? A couple people talked about putting a load resistor on the lights but I haven't read how exactly you attach the load resistor. Thanks!
 



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Welcome to the Forum Lux16.:wavey:

Did you check out post 114?

Peter
 






Welcome to the Forum Lux16.:wavey:

Did you check out post 114?

Peter


Yep, I have read this whole thread. I replaced the 3rd Row light with an LED using post #114 which worked great. (Thanks Chieftomahawk) What I was struggling with was adding load resistors to the other bulbs in order to get the 3rd row light to work correectly (go on when doors open/turn off with the other lights). I wasn't quite sure how people were adding load resistors to the other bulbs. Turns out, I bought 1k ohm 1/2 watt resistors which are a lot bigger than a tiny 1k ohm 1/8 watt resistor. The 1/8 watt resistor wires are alot easier to work with and the actual load resistor is also tiny and easier to hide. So, I added "the correct" load resistors to the 2nd row lights and all the lights are now working properly. I just bent the load resistor wires around the bottom of the wedge bulb and then replaced the bulb in the socket. This was not possible with the 1/2 watt resistor as the wires were too big and the bulb would not go back into the socket. So, my fault for buying the wrong load resistor.

So, in case anyone else is wondering, buy a 1k ohm 1/8 watt resistor. I added one to both 2nd row lights (I have the moonroof). I just bent the load resistor wires around the bottom of the wedge light along the LED wires. Then slid the bulb into the socket.

Thanks for the quick reply Peterk9.

Glad to be on this forum. Well I am glad, my wallet may not be. :eek:
 






LED swap front dome and license plate

I swapped out the interior front dome lights with
iJDMTOY 2W High Power 360-Degree Shine 168 194 2825 T10 LED Bulb
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008GG6FDQ/

Tried 20-SMD T10 12V Light LED for the license plate bulbs but they are just slightly too large in diameter to fit. These will work for the front dome lights but I liked the iJDMTOY better.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006R34PB4/

Followed the directions in post #1 . For the front dome light cover first open the flip down sunglasses holder to easily release rear tabs.
 






So I completed the full LED swap (exluding puddles for now). Easy work with one problem. On the third row light, I dremeled off the SMD (just as I did for the second row) and upon testing a LED on the contacts it does not light up. The blueish indicator LED for the switch works when plugged in. I reversed the polarity and tried another blub. I tried it in the second row harness; nothing.

Any ideas? Anyone want to sell a charcoal black dome light? Part number is BB5Z13776AJ. Has anyone tried a using two 2nd row (2 LED) housings in both the 2nd and 3rd row?
 






What leds did you all use on the license plate? Both of the ones I've tried so far have the wrong beam pattern and shoot assymetrically to the right.
 






What leds did you all use on the license plate? Both of the ones I've tried so far have the wrong beam pattern and shoot assymetrically to the right.

I'm using this LED:
http://www.diodedynamics.com/store/led-bulbs/listed-by-size/194/194-5-5050-smd

Didn't notice that the bulb housing was missing reflectors before I bought a LED with two SMD pointing straight out and got the same problem with light just shooting to the right.
Swapped them for the brighter LED with 5 SMD (4 on the sides). Looks much better now.
 












where and what kind of dvd player do u have in ur x looks great

Sorry if this is a new thread but I couldn't find the previous one anymore where someone had started it and mentioned that they didn't know how to replace the second row bulbs. I just swapped mine tonight!

Here is the DIY
(This is how I did it, which doesn't mean there is no other way. All I needed was 2 screw drivers)

The front dome lights:

With a flat head screw driver pop out the clear plastic gently. It will be a bit reluctant to come out but it will come off all the way without forcing it.

IMG_0957.jpg


I then proceeded with removing the aluminum "foil." It is very thin so be careful not to bend it out of shape too much.
Once it's off you'll have easy access to pull the bulb out.

IMPORTANT! Before putting the LED bulb in, put the foil back in place, otherwise it won't fit over the bulb.

Once the foil is in, inset the bulb and test it. If it doesn't, flip the bulb.

Once they are both in, you can clip the plastic back in and voila!

The rear ones are EASIER!


Under the flip out coat hanger you'll find a screw, see below:
IMG_0958.jpg


Once the screw is out, the assembly will come out:

IMG_0959.jpg


The bulb is located in the side of the housing. To remove it, simply twist the bulb assembly 45 degrees and it pops out:

IMG_0964.jpg


IMG_0961.jpg


put it all back in, and this is the result:

IMG_0962.jpg


IMG_0965.jpg


I also replaced the license plate lights, which is so simple, it's pretty much self explanatory, but if anyone is in doubt, don't hesitate to ask.

IMG_0967-1.jpg
 






I tried to replace the cargo light on my 2015 with an LED, and now, the auto lights do not come on when you open the doors. All of the lights work when pressed on and off, but the button up front no longer controls the cabin lights, and like I said, when I unlock the car, or open a door, the auto feature no longer works. What's up with that?
 






I tried to replace the cargo light on my 2015 with an LED, and now, the auto lights do not come on when you open the doors. All of the lights work when pressed on and off, but the button up front no longer controls the cabin lights, and like I said, when I unlock the car, or open a door, the auto feature no longer works. What's up with that?

I found the answer to my question. It was the LCM that needed reset. Just took about 15 minutes of waiting.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=406336
 






For ME in my explorer sport 2013 , i got a problem of hyper flashing when I installed my signal LEDs , I solved it by replacing the flasher (some kind of Relay) you have to buy LED compatible one instead of the regular .
 






Hey Everyone,

I did a search for this but came up empty. Has anyone successfully replaced the stock puddle light bulbs with LEDS? The stock ones aren't very bright and I thought some LEDS would look great. If anyone could let me know what parts I need to do this and some general instructions I'd appreciate it!!

Thanks in advance!
 






There are literately hundreds of posts about how to do the changing of the bulbs, or where to buy the assembly already converted to LED lights on various Ford forums. I know there are posts on the Explorer, Edge, and F150 forums. Here is a quick search result with just one link to each of the forums I mentioned. there are several other forums and many other posts I did not link to.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=387462&highlight=led+puddle+lights

http://www.f150forum.com/f38/leds-puddles-map-fog-plate-dome-280801/

http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/13899-diy-led-puddle-lights-install/?hl=+puddle++light
 






What I did was use a metal cutting saw thing (The one that looks like a hollow square) and opened up mine by cutting out the edges. I also 3D-printed my own housing when I lost my other one.

The bulb would be a 31 MM festoon dome map light bulb.
 






Kinda looks like Ford wants you to replace the whole assembly if you were to blow a bulb? :scratch:

Anyways i'll order those bulbs and get cracking this weekend. Thanks!
 






I used www.drivebright.com to replace my puddle lamps and my 3rd row map light yellow color LED light with a LED white light. You send your OEM assembly back to them for a credit against your order. Bought the brightest puddle lamp (5 Watt) Cree and it is a BIG improvement over factory. 3rd row map light was a big improvement in brightness. Replaced all interior lights with white LED's and its a major improvement in brightness.
 






I used www.drivebright.com to replace my puddle lamps and my 3rd row map light yellow color LED light with a LED white light. You send your OEM assembly back to them for a credit against your order. Bought the brightest puddle lamp (5 Watt) Cree and it is a BIG improvement over factory. 3rd row map light was a big improvement in brightness. Replaced all interior lights with white LED's and its a major improvement in brightness.

$111 for the brightest puddle lights?! Hot damn.
 






$111 for the brightest puddle lights?! Hot damn.

You did not read the fine print below that states you return your OEM lights and get a $56 credit. Not a bad price for a light that will probably not go out for several years! Plus I cost out the Ford parts If I tried it myself and broke something and the cost for the parts if I broke one of the two lights would of been more than going this route and returning my OEM for credit. SO I went the safe route.
 



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So with the LED replacements, how does the "dim to black" feature work? Is it a nice smoothe fade out like the regular incandescent festoon bulb?
 






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