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How To: First Gen Rear Window with Cables Fix

This might be a stupid question but since the new motor goes behind the speaker.. will the speaker still fit?
 



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..I have aftermarket speakers there and there is no difference before or after..:hammer:
 






Ditto.. it only looks like the speaker goes there but the speaker and motor are in different spots.

~Mark
 






Speaker Interface

No problems with speaker interface.
 












Got both my rears done this weekend. Thanks Tbars for posting this!

If I may I would like to suggest punching out the center pin on the rivets BEFORE drilling. Holds the bit at center and takes less time to get the head off.:D

Takes one or more solid hits with a hammer to push the pin out..
IMG_20120303_144646.jpg

Much easier to drill out with the pin removed.
IMG_20120303_144705.jpg
 






..You guys are welcome and feel free to add more useful information..:biggthump
 






I just picked up my rear regulators and motors last Saturday for $50. (Gotta love the pick-a-part). It was a 98 EB 5.0 with 137k.

I hope to install this Saturday. All I need to obtain is the bolts to put it back together.
Drilling the rivets on the JY truck was a giant PITA! Ford certainly loves their rivets.

I will post pics of my mess. My rear cables have never worked in the almost 2yrs of ownership, you can hear the motor humming, but that's all.
 






Well maybe I'm just special:scratch: because I'm trying to figure out the mounting point of the new motor.

Another thing, I noticed the junkyard motor had a ground on the individual doors itself, mine does not. (I think it is located in drivers kick panel).

I have tried out the new motor (so far I'm working on drivers rear) and it went up just a little and not down. I'm thinking my switch is shorted out because from the master switch it is the same, I have forgotten to roll the windows up a few times when raining :(.

Any additional advice is greatly appreciated. You all that knock this job out all quick like impress me.... I started on mine at 9 till 2, then again from 630 to 9 till I finally gave up.
 






..Sorry just saw this last post..:(

..This should help on the location..;)
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2702653&postcount=36

...and on some electric motors it is not uncommon for them to run an external ground wire...It generally just connects to the mounting screws..

..Depending on when your control pad got wet it may either still be retaining moisture which is common in humid States or it may have "Burned in a short" (Path of least resistance when it got wet)..:(
 






..Sorry just saw this last post..:(


..Depending on when your control pad got wet it may either still be retaining moisture which is common in humid States or it may have "Burned in a short" (Path of least resistance when it got wet)..:(

No biggie, I work two jobs so finding time to work on the X is limited.

Well the doors are from a 91 (truck is a 92) and best of my knowledge the switches are original. Looks like it's time for a trip to the junkyard :D.
 






Power issue was a loose power wire.


I finally got the rear motors swapped. The first one on drivers rear took a while due to frustration. I did the passenger side last night in about 2 hours.

I recommend this to anyone to eliminate the cable setup. My gears in my motors were toast. Cables perfectly in tact.
 






..I'm glad to hear this worked out for ya...:biggthump
 






looks nice to do it that way mutch quickier to do thx for nice info..

great job..
 






..Bumpin for those who have pm, d me..:D
 






I just got the parts to redo my back passenger door . kbabiac shipped fast & the price is unbeatable at 45.00 I will post some pics when I get around to putting it in . I fish a lot .!!! LOL anyone who has problems needs to do this switch . :D
 






..Looking forward to your repair and the pictures..:D
 






got rid of cables

These are the parts I got from kbabiac .
140608_072.jpg

This is a close up of the window rivet & it is knocked out . I used a piece of wood wedged behind the rivet to help in its removal .
140608_077.jpg

This is all the rivets after I knocked the pins out & drilled them . Notice the vise grips I used to hold the window at the right height
140608_080.jpg

This is the bad reg. I am updating .
140608_081.jpg

This is the new set up installed
140608_084.jpg

This is the finished product . I am going to recommend that you get the rivet kit from rock auto as one bolt is just nearly impossible to put in . If you look closely at the fifth pic you can see one rivet in it . . I had about 1 1/2 hours in the change over . saved the old motor to replace one of the fronts if it goes bad . It works great & thanks so much to every one involved in this . Happy motoring tbars4 , thanks to you kbabiac & others .
 

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Whew......

Just wanted to thank everyone for keeping this thread going.

My daughter started college, and actually WANTED to drive my '91 Explorer, so besides regular repairs, anything I can upgrade for her helps keep my '91 "alive" that much longer. I've already rebuilt the window drive gears once, but the passenger rear regulator cables broke this weekend.

Thanks again!

Dredwolf
 



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Well....

I have sent a PM to kbabiac, is that still the best way to reach him?

I have a u-pull yard near me, but it got "assimilated" by LKQ recently, and I have not been since they added more fees for yard access, so I was hoping to pick up the tracks at least.

Thanks,

Dredwolf
 






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