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How To: Upper Control Arm / Ball Joint Replacement (Lots of Pictures)

Well did this today on my old Explorer my son drives now ,, did it on my Mounty Last year so it was easier this time, and did the 2 piece on the right side, left the bushing section in place,, 2.3 hours ,nice :)
 



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What is the difference between the left side upper and the right or is there a difference?(on the one piece replacement part) besides the factory two part on right side
 






Hey guys,

I am changing out the front upper control arms (with ball joints and bushings) and the lower ball joints on my dad's 1999 Ford Explorer (5.0 L V8). I am new to working on Fords, although I have a volvo 240 that I do alot of work on. Should I replace any of the bolts or nuts when replacing all of this stuff? I will most likely be getting the moog parts because from what I hear, they are great quality and I see they are cheaper than the OEM Ford parts.

Also..how do I know if the passenger side uses a 2-piece or 1-piece upper control arm? Im sorry if all of these questions have already been asked.

Evan-I found your writeup on the lower ball joints, so I will be using both of these picture "walkthroughs" to make this work much more efficient. Awesome stuff.

Michael
 






I wish would have joined this site earlier! I just replaced both upper ball joints on both sides, and then replaced the bushings on the upper control arm on the passenger side.

Just got back from Sears and the tech snapped the alignment bolt, trying to find the size of it now. I know the outside is 17MM. Probably easier just to buy the one piece design but already have new bushings installed on the upper control arm and bought the ball joint.

Figured would be cheaper to heat it up remove the broken bolt and get a new bolt then get it aligned.

Still no luck searching for the actual bolt.

Mike
 






I wish would have joined this site earlier! I just replaced both upper ball joints on both sides, and then replaced the bushings on the upper control arm on the passenger side.

Just got back from Sears and the tech snapped the alignment bolt, trying to find the size of it now. I know the outside is 17MM. Probably easier just to buy the one piece design but already have new bushings installed on the upper control arm and bought the ball joint.

Figured would be cheaper to heat it up remove the broken bolt and get a new bolt then get it aligned.

Still no luck searching for the actual bolt.

Mike

If you just replaced your bushings, how did you get them into the existing control arm? Isn't there some kind of press you have to have?

I just did my ball joints on both sides, but didn't replace the passenger UCA bushings. Had to cut the rear bolt of the driver UCA...couldn't get it out around the fuel lines - then I put it in backwards because I couldn't get it back in. Oh well.
 






Yep removed the control arm, and actually used a band saw to cut the top part off and used a punch and a hammer to punch them out.

I was able to press the new ones in.

My front end feels new again:thumbsup:

I don't remember having any issues on the driver side actually that was the easiest side.


If you just replaced your bushings, how did you get them into the existing control arm? Isn't there some kind of press you have to have?

I just did my ball joints on both sides, but didn't replace the passenger UCA bushings. Had to cut the rear bolt of the driver UCA...couldn't get it out around the fuel lines - then I put it in backwards because I couldn't get it back in. Oh well.
 






Yep removed the control arm, and actually used a band saw to cut the top part off and used a punch and a hammer to punch them out.

I was able to press the new ones in.

My front end feels new again:thumbsup:

I don't remember having any issues on the driver side actually that was the easiest side.

No problems with the bushings on the driver side, cause they came part of the UCA. What did you use to press in the bushings of the UCA?
 






A homemade press I made. I replaced the lower ball joints on Monday that's a tough job glad AutoZone has the loan a tool program.


No problems with the bushings on the driver side, cause they came part of the UCA. What did you use to press in the bushings of the UCA?
 












Best thing to do is hit AutoZone and get their tool to do it, cost you a $100 deposit and you get it back when you bring it back. I did that with my lower ball joints.

When I did the bushings just used what was available in my Dad's garage he had a press that he used for other things and we had to modify it a bit to get the CA to mount on the bracket.

If you have access to a band saw I would cut the top off the bushings like I did and then you could put it in a vise squirt a little WD40 down the rest and use a hammer know them out.


That doesn't help me :)
 






Today I replaced my UCAs ( thanks Ford ) and replaced the bushings in the passenger side since it is a two piece component. I also replaced the lower ball joints and outer tie rod ends. After everything was installed I had an alignment done, but unfortunately, I needed to get a camber / caster kit that I didn't know about...lol... So needless to say Saturday I will be removing the UCA bolts again!!!... Passenger side, no problem.. drivers side allot more cussing and grunting..LMAO.. Those damn fuel and brake lines were getting the best of me in the beginning, but I ended up winning the fight.
 






No problems with the bushings on the driver side, cause they came part of the UCA. What did you use to press in the bushings of the UCA?

Getting them out was easy, a vise and a mini sledge pushed then out, but I had to use a press ( it was a 10 ton press that the shop had). I also didn't pay attention with the deplth of the factory bushings until it was to late. If you press the bushing all the wa in it won't fit. It was an easy fix just had to press them out a little. So if you and you do the passenger side pay attention to how far they are pressed in...lol...

laterz
 






Today I replaced my UCAs ( thanks Ford ) and replaced the bushings in the passenger side since it is a two piece component. I also replaced the lower ball joints and outer tie rod ends. After everything was installed I had an alignment done, but unfortunately, I needed to get a camber / caster kit that I didn't know about...lol... So needless to say Saturday I will be removing the UCA bolts again!!!... Passenger side, no problem.. drivers side allot more cussing and grunting..LMAO.. Those damn fuel and brake lines were getting the best of me in the beginning, but I ended up winning the fight.

How in the crap did you get around the fuel lines...there is NO WAY to get the bolt in. I had the forward bushing so tweaked...it couldn't go any higher do to some box above it....still no go. I worked on it for about.....uhhh 5 hours or so. Maybe I didn't cuss enough? LOL
 






How in the crap did you get around the fuel lines...there is NO WAY to get the bolt in. I had the forward bushing so tweaked...it couldn't go any higher do to some box above it....still no go. I worked on it for about.....uhhh 5 hours or so. Maybe I didn't cuss enough? LOL

The fuel lines were held in place by a plastic clamp... after pulling them out and removing the brake line bracket. I was able to spread the fuel lines futher apart. That gave me just enough room to twist the bolt out.

But now I have to do it again, so I can put in the Camber/Caster kit.. So it will be round two..lol..
 






on my estimate from my mechanic it said I need

"upper control arm RIGHT w/BALL JOINT - ENH DESIGN" K8710T

in this write-up, you use a part which I believe to be Moog K80068 http://www.amazon.com/Moog-K80068-Front-Upper-Control/dp/B000C57Z42/ref=pd_sim_auto_3

my search leads me to believe I need Moog K8710T
http://www.amazon.com/Moog-K8710T-Upper-Control-Arm/dp/B000C544RI/ref=pd_sim_auto_2


I want to make sure I buy the correct part. Which one should I get? Is this write-up for the left or right side (is that the difference I am seeing?)
 






on my estimate from my mechanic it said I need

"upper control arm RIGHT w/BALL JOINT - ENH DESIGN" K8710T

in this write-up, you use a part which I believe to be Moog K80068 http://www.amazon.com/Moog-K80068-Front-Upper-Control/dp/B000C57Z42/ref=pd_sim_auto_3

my search leads me to believe I need Moog K8710T
http://www.amazon.com/Moog-K8710T-Upper-Control-Arm/dp/B000C544RI/ref=pd_sim_auto_2


I want to make sure I buy the correct part. Which one should I get? Is this write-up for the left or right side (is that the difference I am seeing?)

The top link is for the Driver side, the bottom link is for the passenger side (two piece replacement) There is a one piece replacement for the pass side but I've never seen it.
 


















just found this:

(MOOG K8710T) :
Carrier w/replaceable/greasable ball joint
Note: this part is discontinued and may not be available. The entire 2-piece PS UCA assembly can be replaced by the 1-piece K80068.

So, I guess that answers my question, I can use either.

I need to make these repairs to pass VT Inspection in order to register my car there.
 



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Any competent alignment shop should be able to work with the one piece right UCA. I've installed two sets of them.
 

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