I dont want to part from my 92XLT

[insane3082]

okay well i guess maybe im too into doing this i already took out the antifreeze it was kinda nasty and dirty looked like tea but i dont see why if i had just last year did a radiator flush. i will see if it shoots out gas in the morning i just barely found out where the schrader valve is according to the haynes manual.

 

[project92]

okay well i guess maybe im too into doing this i already took out the antifreeze it was kinda nasty and dirty looked like tea but i dont see why if i had just last year did a radiator flush. i will see if it shoots out gas in the morning i just barely found out where the schrader valve is according to the haynes manual.

thats cool just trying to keep you from spending to much$$$$ if its something major...

 

[insane3082]

okay i gues the picture arent for my vehicle so i still dont know where the schrader valve is located. aparently mine is a pushrod engine it only shows pictures to the 4.0 sohc and the 5.0 which is useless. im not getting into the heads i opened the headgasket box and it looks like too much for me and it talks about having to torque it to oem specifications i dont wanna do it myself and find out its leaking cus i didnt tighten it right. im going to do the thermostat, and water pump. if that doesnt work i'll take it to someone experienced. can anyone help me locate the schrader valve? 1992 XLT 4.0 (pushrod i believe)

 

[97greenmonster]

Yea, the pushrod is the only 4.0 motor in the 1st gens. I dont know where it is, but good luck! SOunds like a nasty job after 3 weeks.

 

[project92]

okay i gues the picture arent for my vehicle so i still dont know where the schrader valve is located. aparently mine is a pushrod engine it only shows pictures to the 4.0 sohc and the 5.0 which is useless. im not getting into the heads i opened the headgasket box and it looks like too much for me and it talks about having to torque it to oem specifications i dont wanna do it myself and find out its leaking cus i didnt tighten it right. im going to do the thermostat, and water pump. if that doesnt work i'll take it to someone experienced. can anyone help me locate the schrader valve? 1992 XLT 4.0 (pushrod i believe)

okay I looked on mine 93 xlt

pop the hood... standing in front of your truck find the coil pack (where your spark plugs wire meets) then look in front of your coil pack you see wire and a plug in the thing in front of that plug is the shcrader valve it has a valve cap on it and point toward the left wheel.. so basciall from the back to front coil pack plug in the schrader valve and yes all 91-94 explorers was 4.0 ohv motors (pushrod)..

 

[insane3082]

thats funny project92 back in the summer i had a loose vacuum hose didnt know where it went so i plugged it to that anyway the hose went to the air filter. i havent yet looked at it but im sure its the same one its kinda hidden. thanks and im guessing maybe not all since the haynes manual has a pic of the 4.0 sohc that looks nothing like mine

 

[insane3082]

okay well i did the schrader valve test and gas squirts out. what next.

 

[insane3082]

schrader valve

that's my 92 see why i dont wanna part from it good condition all around

 

[project92]

how did you test it? I just tested mine it lets a small squirt out the best way is to push it in with a small screwdriver rig it in there (don't damage the valve) and turn the key on it should really squirt out then... if you don't feel comfortable doing that then pull the black thing off that hooks to the intake get a squirt bottle (gatorade bottle dawn dishwashing soap bottle) squirt a little in the intake if it trys to fire off.. then you may need to check the schrader valve as listed above..... if no start then pull a plug wire off stick a old plug in it and ground it and see if there is fire .....if the is fire you difently need to check the shcrader valve like listed above ... if the schrader valve checks out then I would say compresion test.... if no fire on the plug then thats a whole new ballpark...

 

[project92]

okay that line there is a little britttle plastic line probably layin on the intake that it plugs into...

 

[insane3082]

that pic was to an old post i had on here, i accidently pulled it was to the air filter it was extended when i pulled out the air filter to replace it that must have came out its fine now. as for me trying to fire it up i cant do it at the moment i already pulled the radiator out its been out for a day im going to replace the thermostat and water pump. another thing i need to know where i can find a new line for the radiator, (lower line) holds transmission fluid (steel one). when i tried to take it off i didnt notice it was bending. it was stuck from all that rust.

 

[mikeinri]

For the metal transmission lines, everyone (all parts stores and Ford dealers) tell me you need to remove the old one from the truck, bring it in and match it up to make your own new line from bulk parts (tubing and fittings). You will need to make your own bends, etc.

Mike

 

[Phager]

how did you test it? I just tested mine it lets a small squirt out the best way is to push it in with a small screwdriver rig it in there (don't damage the valve) and turn the key on it should really squirt out then... if you don't feel comfortable doing that then pull the black thing off that hooks to the intake get a squirt bottle (gatorade bottle dawn dishwashing soap bottle) squirt a little in the intake if it trys to fire off.. then you may need to check the schrader valve as listed above..... if no start then pull a plug wire off stick a old plug in it and ground it and see if there is fire .....if the is fire you difently need to check the shcrader valve like listed above ... if the schrader valve checks out then I would say compresion test.... if no fire on the plug then thats a whole new ballpark...

I don't mean to nit pick, but testing for spark that way is really inaccurate. When a cylinder has pressure in it, the resistance (and therefore the current) goes way up. That method of testing it will tell you if you have absolutely no spark, but if you have a weak spark you'll test out fine using an old spark plug out of the cylinder but when it's in the cylinder you'll still have a no spark condition.

I used to do that test all the time, until I ran across a no spark situation and spent weeks trying to get my car up and running when it turned out to be a bad coil . Spark testers are pretty inexpensive, and I've found them to be a good investment.

Just my .02

Pat

 

[insane3082]

okay i have a question. Would a damaged water pump keep a car from turning on?" im getting the feeling that im going to replace it and be dissapointed once im done.

 

[mikeinri]

Not in my experience, but I've been wrong before...

But, this is what a bunch of us have been trying to tell you all along. The water pump, radiator, etc. are peripherals. They keep the motor cool once it is running. Repairing them should only be done if you're willing to spend whatever amount of money will be needed to make the motor actually run (i.e. it really sounds to us like something else needs to be fixed).
Just trying to help. You've seemed pretty hell-bent on swapping out that pump!

Good luck, let us know how it goes.

Mike

 

[sumless]

Hi Insane3082,

A water pump (as Mike suggests) really has nothing to do with the engine firing up. In fact you "could" take off the belt that turns all of the componants (AC/Alternator/PowerSteering) and it should start up. I'd not run it for very long under that senario.
But, you need 3 things for an engine to run.
1. Spark 2. Fuel 3. Compression (ok, could be expanded here, but)
To determine if your getting spark your best bet is to wait for a dark night (or dark garage is accessable) take one of the spark plug wires off, lay it next to a grounded area (most metal areas will yeild this like the alternator bracket) and have someone turnover (try and start) the vehicle while you watch that spark plug wire. If you have spark you should see an electrical arc from the tip of the end of the spark plug boot to a ground, sort of like a mini-lightening along with a poping noise. If you don't chances are its the ignition. CAUTION DO NOT TOUCH/HOLD the sparkplug wire or boot while doing this, it'll shock you into next week.
Fuel can be a little more tricky, depending on your battery life. If while turning over the vehicle several times, have (again) someone else turn it over. Place yourself at the end of the exaust pipe. Using your hand wave up from the tail pipe (while it is being turned over) an smell. If it smells like gas, faintly, than your getting gas too. If not, cover the tail pipe with your hand and verify that there is pressure/air pushing out. If that is not the case than you either have 1:a major exaust leak 2: a major mechanical issue (timing chain) with the engine. If you suspect an exaust leak, the only way to verify gas is getting in would be to verify (as mentioned before) fuel pressures at test points on your engine. I guess one "could" take out a spark plug and turn it over and again sniff for a gas smell, but I would caution that if in an enclosed space (Garage).
In short, changing the water pump will do about as much as changing the air in your tires for this problem.

Cheer
-Joe

 

[lilbeefy]

another way to check for spark is to use a rubber handled screwdriver stick the metal end in the plug, lay it on your engine and turn it over the cable should spark,do this for each cable, although this will not rule out a plug fault, just lets you know if your cables are good,also just for the heck of it, it seems you have been having this prob for a few days now, charge your battery especially if it has been in the cold for a while.

 

[insane3082]

lol yeah i knew it. but im changing the water pump because my father said when he tried turning the truck on with my brother in law it turned on but they said it started shooting out all the antifreeze so i wanna get that out of the way too thats why when im done with that im going to try all of these steps that you guys are mentioning. schrader valve one is done im going to try the gas bottle one then i'll do the sparks oneif not im outa luck and well i'll be looking into gettin myself another vehicle

 

[mikeinri]

There's some weird expression that comes to mind, something about throwing out the baby with the bathwater...

Anyway, your truck looks nice, if you think it's worth keeping, might be worth having someone do some diagnostics for you before you decide to junk it. It could still be something fairly simple that a trained mechanic could figure out in no time.

Other than that, I've seen some posts here that say you should be able to pick up a junkyard motor for $300-$500, might be another option for you if the rest of the Explorer is pristine (and a mechanic says the motor is definitely toast).

Mike

 

[insane3082]

thanks it is nice thats why i dont wanna get rid of it, thats a thought that crossed my mind, getting another motor for it but they hardly come up on ebay and in a near by junkyard i dont think i wanna be pulling anything out in this cold weather just to find out it doesnt work either. beside that, i have removed my thermostat im cleaning the housing its full of gunk and smells bad. anyone know how to remove the fan from the water pump?