I need a new Heater Core ASAP!

[Cranmaro99]

I need to get a new Heater Core asap, and I want a quality one (factory one) as I never want to deal with installing another one again.

I don't want to get a cheap one that will break again so I want to get an EOM replacement.

Looking at RockAuto.com the nicest (most expensive) heater core is one made by ACDelco. All the other cheaper ones are by brands I've never heard of.

Is that the factory replacement part? Or is there a motor craft version out there?

 

[Cranmaro99]

Any tips?

 

[Turdle]

The one I bought from Oreilly auto parts looked exactly like the one i removed.

 

[Cranmaro99]

Ok thanks for the heads up. I've just read so many posts on this forum through the search feature that getting a cheap heater core is a no-no and they usually only last a year or two.

Something I don't want to happen.

 

[Cranmaro99]

NEW QUESTION:

I ordered a new Motorcraft heater core. While I'm tearing the dash apart are there any other parts related to the heater core that may be bad or may be good to replace while I have the dash apart? I don't want to do this again. Someone mentions heater control valve would be good to replace?

Should I replace the blend door and actuator while I'm at it before it fails and I have to take the dash apart again? 116k miles on the truck and still original parts.

Thank you guys!!!

 

[RomeovilleIL]

The videos plus the extra items noted in the recent sticky will walk you through very nicely. It's time consuming, but not really that difficult. For what it is worth, I've done this a few times. The A/C absolutely does NOT need to be discharged and removed. It's extra work and expense that will make very little difference in process.

Put the front end on jack stands and remove the passenger tire. Take off the mud
guard and all those hard to reach bolts inside the engine bay are right in front of you. With the fluid resevoirs removed the blower housing can move back 4-5 inches after you take off the 4 nuts (most sockets aren't deep enough, standard wrench works better). That is plenty of room to take the second set of nuts off the airbox studs.

Take your time since it's cold and plastic will crack or break if you force it. Make sure you have lots of extensions, a wobble joint, and a towel to wrap around any wrench handles that might get near your windshield. You will be amazed at how many different sized fasteners were used!

The blend door is not a bad idea while the dash is apart since it is made of plastic and may have become stressed or brittle over time. The Dorman part is identical to OEM and costs less than $12. As for the actuator, that part does not require a tear down to reach anyway & most times only the Ford part from the dealer works so my opinion would be leave intact unless it has acted up in the past. The valve is in the engine bay & run's $20, not a huge issue to swap out whenever needed.

As for replacement heater cores going bad, I suspect it is not a case of low quality part. More likely it is an electricity & antifreeze problem that eats the metal away. I don't recall exactly what its named. Someone will chime in.

 

[Cranmaro99]

Thank you so much for the reply.

So pretty much the blend door will be good thing to replace while I'm in there, but the actuator I can replace when it actually fails, as you don't have to remove the dash to get to it?

 

[Turdle]

Yes.

I wouldn't change the blend door unless it is showing signs of cracking on the pivot-actuator post.