i need help w/starting problem

[ellat]

last night my 1994 ford explorer eddie baurer edition started then the lights went off n it stalled then when i tried to start it again it just made a clicking noise...is it the starter

 

[gsbarry]

First off, get/borrow a multimeter and check the voltage on the battery. The clicking noise is usually a symptom of low voltage on a battery. However, given that it started, then died before immediately before the no-start condition, my initial guess is that you have a failed alternator. This would not allow the battery to charge, and the vehicle would temporarily run on battery power until it got too low.

You most likely still have a good battery, so put it on a charger, or have them test it at autozone. If it takes a charge, then try starting the vehicle again with the good/recharged battery. You want to check the voltage on the battery both before and after you start the vehicle. If the voltage does not immediately increase after starting, your alternator is most likely the culprit.

Upon removal of the alternator, autozone can also bench test that part, to double check it's failure.

There could be other issues in play here, but that is the most likely IMO.

 

[RangerX]

First thing I would check is if the battery cable terminals are clean and tight.

 

[gsbarry]

Ya good thing to check for sure. My battery cables lost conductivity from exhaust manifold heat. That's another possibility, but simple things first. My gut says this is an electrical problem, not mechanical.

 

[2stroke]

This sounds like a cut and dry case of a bad alternator. If you jump off another car and it runs until you take it off, it's the alternator.

 

[Wolfie_85]

I'm with the others, definitely sounds like an alternator. If not that, you have an issue with cables and/or wires.

 

[OneofMany]

last night my 1994 ford explorer eddie baurer edition started then the lights went off n it stalled then when i tried to start it again it just made a clicking noise...is it the starter

You have a bad connection. Your accessories like light losing power would be a tell tale. Use your multi meter to check the battery to verify charge, then check resistance over the connectors to the battery and then ground post to engine, positive post to the positive post on the solenoid switch. One backyard method of finding a bad connection is to feel for heat at connections after a failed starting attempt. There is quite a few wires connecting to the positive battery post.

 

[larrydd999]

I agree with the bad cable suggestions. If the engine started, the battery had to be adequate. The starter takes a lot more energy than running the engine after it starts. If the lights go out when trying to start after it started then died, it is almost for certain a wiring issue. A vehicle will run with a bad alternator (I've done it) but not with a wiring problem. It may run with a 'dead' battery if it gets a jump from another battery to get started.

 

[gsbarry]

The thing about batteries and alternators is that they are not simply good (running at spec voltage) or bad (running zero voltage). Either component can be failing (running lower than spec voltage) and still allow the vehicle to run. One component can be failed completely, and the other at spec, and still allow the vehicle to run, at least temporarily. However both cannot be completely failed and still allow the vehicle to run. Simple diagnostic steps will reveal the answer, any of the suggestions are possible.

Where's the OP?