I swear, it follwed me home. Kert's B2 project | Page 4 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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I swear, it follwed me home. Kert's B2 project

the I6 is long, but I have seen a 400 under the hood of a BII so anything is possible, with the I 6 at least you wont need steering or frame mods, just firewall and/or radiator support

it should fit nicely :)
 



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the I6 is long, but I have seen a 400 under the hood of a BII so anything is possible, with the I 6 at least you wont need steering or frame mods, just firewall and/or radiator support

it should fit nicely :)

radiator supports and fire walss are over rated any ways lol
 






I agree, its the frame notch for the header, re-locating the steering shaft and notching the heater box are the big obstacles for a 351 SB or big block conversion, with your I 6 none of these apply, heck you should have room for an on boar air compressor AND air conditioning while still being able to stuff two batteries, cruise control and some ammo boxes full of tools under the hood... plus you will actually be able to access the exhaust bolts without breaking your wrist!



the top bellhousing bolts, well thats another story LOL maybe need a dash panel to get to those suckers LOL
 






More info here -> http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2321529#post2321529

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Got one link?

Began the one-link. Excuse the out of position boogger welds, I've decided to stick weld all out of position welds from now on:D

Cross member made from 4x2 .25 wall tube
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Beginning of the front link
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Close up of welded ballistic 3.0 joint assembled
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Well, I figured I'd post up some more pictures and give an update as progress has stalled because I need a blade for the bandsaw. In case anyone's curious, harbor freight band saw blades suck, they will go dull after cutting a couple tubes. Northern tool blades will be tried next, thier online reviews seem promising. I'll have to wait until the weekend to run over to Northern Tool to get some more. The places in town here want $40 per blade, I can get them from northern for $14. (HF's were $8 if you're wondering).

Here are some shock tabs I got from work.

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The rest are Ballistic Parts that will be installed when I can get cutting again.

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Factory front spring pockets will be reused with ballistic style spring retainers

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Trying to show how wide this thing is going to be when it's done. The tires/wheels are bolted to the D60, and it is in it's mock up position.

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Shop Dogs

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More mock up picts... travel is around 21". This is all just tacked together. It still needs some gusseting and a cross tube if it will fit. The final version will be u-bolted to the axle (think leaf springs) this is the only way to give a one-link some adjustment after it is built. it also keeps the link up a little higher for more clearance. (yes, I know the tire is on backwards :D)

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Better view of the link's shape.

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Are you going to weld some sort of "spring perch" to the axel to prevent it from twisting? If so won't you lose your adjustability? I think axle end adjustability goes out the window with the one link after its connected to the axel. You may be better off getting it as close as possible on the axle end and doing your adjustment on the frame end of the link with various mounting points.
 






The axles are from a leaf sprung truck. So if I take the tube from my link, drill holes every inch or so to put a "leaf pack bolt" and then get some u-bolts to bolt the link to the factory spring perch to the axle. Here's a pic I stole from pirate to show what I'm going to do.
 

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More mock up pics. Don't mind the angle Iron panhard bar. It will be replaced, I needed something there for the time being.

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Pan hard axle mount and spring retainer
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Test fit of ride height with springs in. It is sitting under it's own weight in the pic.
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sweetness! any plans to plate "the link" a bit for strength at the joints??
 






thats really cool
 






I really enjoy following this build. I like your ideas and hands on approach.
Keep us posted on your build.
 






sweetness! any plans to plate "the link" a bit for strength at the joints??

The link will be plated at all the weld joints with some 3/16th plate I've got laying around. Especially where it will be clamped to the axle since that is where the "link" will see the most torque. The rear link will be a lot more beefy as well. I really think that I am going to like the EB springs I'm using they seem to be about the perfect spring rate for the weight of the b2 with the 300 engine.
 






Wow look how black that frame is :D
 












Thread update for the weekend. Drove to Omaha to pick up a few things, one of them being a Dana 20 transfer case from an Early Bronco. It's a J-shift style, so twin stick here I come.
The Dana 20's 2.34 low range paired with the NP435 trans 6.69 granny low gear should make for some good gearing. I also verified my rear axle is currently a 4.10, so I won't have to re-gear right away which will save me some cash upfront(assuming the front matches).

Fun fact, I was messing with the D20 and figured out I could get the front axle drive into high while having the rear output in low.
 






wow ive never seen a suspension set up like that before but thats sweet
 






Got some u-bolts in the mail 5/8" should be strong enough.

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Started on some sliders too.

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