Allright here it is, the swap is complete as of today.
1995 Explorer 4 Eddie Bauer 130K miles. 4x4, 4.0L OHV, automatic.
Truck was overheated as run until the engine seized (hydrolocked), cause was a failed tensioner pulley, the pulley took out the radiator..
I replaced the engine with a running take out unit from a local junk yard. The donor was a 97 Explorer 4.0L with 100K miles (approx), compression test yielded 125 psi in all cylinders. Engine was run before pulled, no issues.
This write up will cover all the things encountered when using the later model OHV into the 95 truck (93TM 4.0L block vs 95TM block).
I ran into a few un-expected issues during this conversion, there are a few changes that must be addressed in order to run this long block with the 95 computer and truck.
The truck got a brand new radiator, tensioner pulley, and belt before it was in my hands.
At the beggining, notice the leaves in the airbox and 130K worth of dirt:
I started by removing the 95 engine (obviously)
I left the transfer case, transmission, drivelines, exhaust, and trans cooler lines in place during this swap.
this saved me alot of work.
When I drained the oil I found more coolant then oil. A tear down of the 95 block is coming, we shall see how far the damage goes..
Bare bay:
Engine out:
95 block stripped of intake, accessories:
The 97 Engine was stripped down to the lower intake and fuel rail. All accessories and brackets were removed. the exhaust manifolds and fuel rail were left on the block.
Things to note:
the 97 flywheel uses an 8 bolt pattern (same as SOHC), the 95 uses a 6
The 97 camshaft position sensor uses a different wiring plug from the 95 sensor, the 95 sensor will not fit the 97 block.
the drivers side engine mount plate on the 97 block uses a reversed bolt pattern from the 95, the 95 plate mounts up no issues.
the 97 uses a different crankshaft position sensor
the 97 has different coolant tempature sensors
The EGR is the same
the 97 upper intake maifold is different from the 95
the long block is the same otherwise, externally
97 Engine
97 stripped:
97 cleaned and In place:
97 bolted in stabbed to trans:
By removing the mounting plates on the side of ths 97 block I was able to aling it to the transmission and stab the block, tighten all the bellhousing bolts. Then the assembly was lifted 2" and the engine mount plates were installed, then dropped onto the engine mounts. INteresting note is the 95 drivers side engine mount plate was required as the 97 mounting holes are reversed.
I retained the 95 upper intake plenum, TB, IAC, coil pack, EGR sensor and vacuum switch, vacuum plumbing, alternator, AC compressor, power steering pump, and starter.
First wiring harness installed AFTER 97 camshaft position sensor wiring plug was soldered to the 95 computer harness (fun times, soldering in the truck):
First problem I ran into was the flywheel. My 97 engine from the junk yard did not come with a flywheel/spacer and bolts. I had to buy these parts from Ford, $98
Here you can see the 97 block vs the 95 flywheel:
new flywheel/spacer/bolts installed:
Next was the camshaft position sensor, here you can see th e95 vs the 97 sensor. As you can see the 97 sensor is deeper into the block, so it MUST be used with the 97 engine, requiring me to swap out the wiring plug on the harness:
(Earlier versions of the OHV (91-94) do NOT have this sensor, it can be deleted and the block off plate installed on the 95 TM block if you are putting this engine into an earlier model)
the 95 cooling fan was showing its age, you can see the typical nylon cracking, The 97 fan/clutch was used as it had no cracks:
the 97 block got new Autolite double platinum spark plugs:
A new Stant 195 thermostat was also installed in the block.
the 95 coolant sensors and crankshaft position sensor were also required to swap onto the 97 block.
97 block in with 95 upper intake, EGR, wiring, fuel lines plumbed, etc:
the 95 alternator, power steering pump, ac bracket, tensioner pulley and belt installed:
All plumbed and wired, TB and IAC cleaned, MAS cleaned. Fan/ clutch, fan shroud, intake, new air filter, radiator and heater plumbed, AC compressor plumbed, etc (almost ready to run)
Leftovers
:
I then dropped the trans pan and replaced the filter.
The truck required 5 quarts of cheapo 10W-30, FL-1A Motocraft filter, power steering fluid, 5 quarts of Mercon, 2 gallons of antifreeze/ 2 gallons water (approx), 2 cans of Gunk foamy engine brite, silicon, teflon tape, die-electric grease, thermostat, new air filter, trans filter and gasket (yes Glacier Microfelt filter
), etc:
I also cleaned the MAS wires while I was in there and added a bottle of red line fuel system treatment.
This morning I fired it up, after a VERY long process of replacing the engine.
I ran into quite a few unforseen issues (including weather, one bad donor engine, a broken exhaust bolt, strepp throat!, swapping cam shaft sensors twice AFTER the engine was stabbed, etc) during this swap and it took longer then expected.
I would like to thank Keystone Light and Colorado weather for allowing me to finally get this project done after a long month of work. thanks to Brett and Dave for helping me work through problems over the phone, Matt at Courtesy Ford for getting parts and shooting the sh*% with me for an hour about my BII and conversion, and Jeff at Colorado Auto Salvage for a great deal on a perfect 97 donor engine.
This write up can hopefully save the next person from running into the same issues unexpectedly....
It runs perfect.
At first it POURED out white smoke. I monitored coolant temp, oil pressure, fluid levels, leaks, etc when I ran it briefly for the first time.
I figured the white smoke was coolant in the exhaust from the previous engine......It was!!! (was worried about a cracked head!)
after 10-15 minutes of getting it up to temp it cleared, SLOWLY.
I drove it a bit, checked fluids, leaks, etc eventually it was perfect, no codes, runs smooth, shifts perfect, no leaks all fluids are fine.
Bled the power steering, cleaned the engine bay thuroughly (the block was cleaned before being installed) installed hood, new battery hold down (was missing) and all is well
Breathed new life into this explorer for well under $1000 (engine/parts) with a full tune up, new trans fluid, all new filters and fluids, cooling, etc
Parts (approx)
97 engine, $400
Flywheel & parts: $100
Fluids: $80
Filters/gaskets: $50
Misc: $50
I bought some new tools for this project as well, many of mine were worn out from pulling engines!
The AC needs to be charged of course, I also recommend a trans backflush and fluid chage in 1500 miles or so. This 95 is not equipped with an external trans cooler, only the Radiator cooler for the trans. I will install a factory aux trans cooler if the owner agrees as well (what do you know! I already have the parts needed!)
I washed and waxed the truck today, also detailed the interior. The owner is a friend of mine and since I am proud of my work I would not have it leave my shop any other way.
More pictures of the completed project tomorrow...
The truck needs shocks, alignment (torsion bar sag), and ball joints. Other then that it is in perfect shape.
In 1000 miles I will see it again for a oil change and to check on things. I plan to switch to synthetic oil and change the transfer case and rear diff fluid at that time.