I'm having trouble finding a manual hub conversion kit online

[410Fortune]

You are not going to re use that part
It should spin out easily once you remove the keyway

The best way to get the keyway out is with brake clean and a magnet.
It won’t come out easily if there is pressure on the it, so make sure the nut is not trying to spin loose or tight, but is just sitting there and the little keyway is free to move.
I often have to remove these at the junk yard. Needlenose pliers and a door speaker magnet can be used to get that pesky keyway out with no tension on it and the grease cleaned up they usually slide right out. I put the door speaker magnet on the end of a long screwdriver which allows me to grab the keyway
Once keyway is removed from spindle that large awkward nut just comes right off.. needlenose or a flathead is all you need to remove it

You won’t re use any of that auto hub hardware it all gets replaced

 

[rickyd123]

I removed the locking key and got the nut off with a lot of help from the people on this site. Thanks. I found a YouTube video of an auto hub to manual conversion. It's an 80s Bronco but everything looks exactly like my 94 explorer. If anyone comes across this thread in the future it might be helpful. He's using Milemarker hubs and a conversion kit.

 

[BKennedy]

You might run into a snag when you install the manual hub nuts and locking washer. They are keyed so the inner nut is basically hand tight, then tightened slightly until the washer fits on the nut pin and key slot. Then the outer nut is torqued to 150 foot pounds. The inner nut and washer placement is tricky. It can't be too tight or too loose or you will eat the bearings. You can flip the washer if it's not keying correctly. The process is something that I did by feel, except for torqueing the outer nut. When it feels right, it's right. That's hard to explain to someone who has never used this type of nut set.

I've used that type of nut set for decades on two different axles so I have a feel for it. I suggest you install it several times without torqueing the outer nut to get a feel for it. Tighten and loosen the inner nut several times while turning the rotor before installing the lock washer to get the bearings seated and get a feel for it.

I eventually went to this set on my Dana 44 axle as it eliminates the locking nut and high torque on the spindle. It has its own quirks when installing but has more notches that allow the user to fine tune the amount of torque on the bearings. I think it's an improvement over the original design, but some people hate it. They are spendy at $100 a side though.
Stage 8 X-LOCK D44& D30 Locking Spindle Nut Assembly - Broncograveyard.com Stage 8 X-LOCK D44& D30 Locking Spindle Nut Assembly - Broncograveyard.com

 

[rickyd123]

So I definitely ran into a snag. So I put the conversion kit on. I followed BKennedy advice and I'm also doing this one wheel at a time, so I took the other wheel off thinking I could compare the spin of both rotors after I install the conversion kit. After putting the 1st nut in place a few times it felt ok, so I torqued it like the instructions said and installed the second nut and started torquing it. I don't know how long it was doing it, but at some point both nuts started turning. By time I noticed the rotor would no longer turn.
At that point, I took everything off and started over. I took the bearing out and inspected it. It look good. Once I reinstalled the conversion kit, the rotor never turned like the other side again. It was harder to turn. Plainly harder. I think BKenndy said he uses a different conversion kit that is much easier to use, but I'm not sure if I'm getting what he's saying right. He might mean a completely different hub set up. If there is an easier kit that will work with my Milemarker hubs that would be great.

 

[BKennedy]

That's what I meant when I wrote getting the torque right is tricky. The inner nut is basically hand tight. The washer keys to the pin on the inner nut and the spindle key notch. When your torqueing the outer nut to 150 ft pounds, the inner nut will turn slightly, then will be locked in place by the pin and washer at the correct preload. You should be able to turn the hub by hand.

Did you have the nut with the pin on the inside? Did you maybe break off the pin? I don't see how the inner nut could turn more than 1/8 of the way before being locked in place. If you cranked down on the bearings, it's possible to put enough preload to damage them.

 

[rickyd123]

I didn't break the pins on the nut on the inside. I realized it pushed the rotor against the brake pad on the inside. That inside bolt never stopped turning. When I did the other side I put a little grease on the washer side facing the outer bolt and it worked fine. I could only get it to about 115 pounds of torque with that crappy socket. It wouldn't stay in place. I'm going to retry the other side today.

 

[410Fortune]

Setting the preload is exactly the same on these wheel bearings or trailer bearings or any old school wheel bearings that use a cages bearing inner and outer with races

Install the inner nut
Torque to 30-40 ft lbs
Spin the wheel / rotor both directions
Loosen 1/8-1/4 of a turn, as soon as you feel it release and start to back off super easily, stop. Now install the lock ring washer. It should fit over the locking pin easily. If it doesn’t line up, tighten it until the pin lines up with a hole, do not loosen

Now jamb the outer nut on,’torque as hard as you can,
I have been known to use my knee to support the socket/ ratchet head while I torque the end of the ratchet, 150+ fr lbs will hold it

I’ve had this spindle nut setup on my bii for 30 years now… you get quite good at it.

The spindle, where the threads are that the inner and outer spindle nuts sit, those threads get *****ed up around the slot. The slot is what holds the tab of the lock ring washer. So when the threads start to get gouged there it allows that little tab to work back and forth just slightly. Once that happens it’s a matter of time before the nuts come loose and you lose pre
Load.

Your spindles should be good because they have never had abuse in that area.
When the threads allow too much movement there are a few options, like the set @BKennedy posted, or use a thicker or thinner inner nut to move the locking tab location on the spindle. I picked up about 3 sets of these spindles at the junk yard in case I decide to keep my Dana 35 ttb around for another 30 years

I have also welded a little material to my lock ring washers little locking tab and then grind it down so it fits exactly in the spindle with zero side to side movement
I run a arb locker and 35” tires on my ttb… so keeping those wheel bearings loaded is most important

 

[rickyd123]

I think I've figured it out. The tab on one of the lock washers is messed up. It's the one that's giving me all the trouble. I went to Auto Zone and bought a new lock washer and everything went together well. There's no way I can torque that outer nut to 150 lbs. The socket sucks for starters. I used my knees and everything else I could think of. Plus I'm not nearly strong enough anymore.

 

[Josh P]

I think I've figured it out. The tab on one of the lock washers is messed up. It's the one that's giving me all the trouble. I went to Auto Zone and bought a new lock washer and everything went together well. There's no way I can torque that outer nut to 150 lbs. The socket sucks for starters. I used my knees and everything else I could think of. Plus I'm not nearly strong enough anymore.

You can get a torque multiplication adapter for a ratchet wrench, or a torque wrench where 1 lb of force in is 3-4 lbs of force out.

 

[RangerX]

You might have the crappy style of socket that doesn’t have a lip around the four prongs to help keep them on. It makes all the difference.
I tighten mine with a short length of pipe slipped over the handle of a 1/2” ratchet, even then it takes all my strength.

 

[rickyd123]

Yeah no lip on my socket. How important is it that I get to 150 lbs of torque. 120 isn't close enough?

 

[410Fortune]

120 Will hold it maybe check on them after 500
Miles

Good job

 

[BKennedy]

Yeah no lip on my socket. How important is it that I get to 150 lbs of torque. 120 isn't close enough?

RangerX mentioned it a few times that the socket without the lip doesn't hold very well. I have both after busting my knuckles on the lug studs a few times. I use the no lip one to get the inner nut where I want it, then use the lipped one to torque the outer nut.

 

[rickyd123]

I read RangerX's commit about a lip around the socket and decided I could add one to my crappy socket. I had a can of chili for lunch the cut both ends of the can and used snipes to cut it long ways and hose clamps to hold it all together. Here's a pic. It worked really good. I slid it down the socket just cover the one nut and had to trim it a little. I found a piece of old exhaust pipe for leverage and was able to torque it to 150 lbs. Now I have to road test it to see if the 4wd is fixed.

 

[410Fortune]

They should sell them like that! Even the ones w the lip it’s only 1/4”

Nice work

 

[rickyd123]

I took it for a test drive and the 4wd works! Thanks for all the help and I needed a lot of help. And here's me asking for more.
I've had the vehicle for basically 10 years and the 4wd has never worked. I don't know how many years it was before I got it when it last worked. When I do a U-turn in it in 4 low or high it makes a loud squeaking noise and the steering wheel jerks in my hand. I can feel it through the steering wheel on regular turns.
I've driven a few times in 4wd and at first going straight down the road it made a lot of noise. ie squeaking, chirping, rubbing, dry sounds. The more I've driven it those have faded, but not the U-turn sounds and wheel jerking.
I have very little experience with 4wd vehicles. Around here they usually cost more than I can afford.

 

[RangerX]

If you’re doing U turns in 4wd on dry pavement, don’t! The tires can’t slip, and it then binds up the drivetrain.

 

[rickyd123]

ooppps. Like I said don't know anything about 4wd. I forgot to add to my earlier post that the transfer case was full of fluid. I had to add fluid to the differential. I thought doing U-turns was how you were supposed to tell if it was going into 4wd.

 

[410Fortune]

Hahahaha oh man

4wd will bind up when used on hard surfaces
You should only use 4wd high range on dirt or wet/ slippery surfaces. 4 low is for sure for off road use

Turning in 4wd on hard road is a no no
Your cv axles and drivelines will bind up very quickly and it can be hard to turn and drive until something snaps…

 

[BKennedy]

If you've had it for ten years and not used 4wd, I strongly suggest changing the front diff fluid. You can get a $8 fluid pump from Harbor Freight and pump as much out as you can, then refill with fresh fluid. The rear you can change by removing the cover. Then you can let it drain and clean it out, and inspect everything. Use RTV or my personal choice, a Lubelocker reusable gasket.