Installing my TM Headers this weekend.. | Ford Explorer Forums

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Installing my TM Headers this weekend..

SilverBullet

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Joined
August 24, 2004
Messages
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City, State
Tulsa, OK
Year, Model & Trim Level
2001 Eddie Bauer AWD 5.0
:mad::mad:

I can't the get collector bolts loose for the life of me. The outside one on the passenger side, I rounded the head off. The inside one I tried for awhile with no luck... the drivers side I can't budge. Granted, I'm using only hand tools. Tomorrow I will try an impact gun.

Also, I broke several of those stupid small hard vacuum lines just by looking at them. Argh.
 



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Maybe you ought to wait a bit-bring that thing here and we''ll get a crew together to put them on. You are about 3 hrs max from my house.
 






That'd be awesome, except it's all apart in my garage. lol

I can't find any place local that sells those spark plug wire boots, to protect them from the headers. Are the necessary? Can I just wrap the headers with header wrap instead?
 






i was planning on getting TM headers soon but then i got laid off and got in a small wreck... of course couldnt happen at a worse time... so im broke save for the small unemployment checks i get each week. Anyone want to donate the the "TM Headers 4 Cheesy Fund"?!? lol
 






That'd be awesome, except it's all apart in my garage. lol

I can't find any place local that sells those spark plug wire boots, to protect them from the headers. Are the necessary? Can I just wrap the headers with header wrap instead?

I wouldn't wrap the headers. It will void your warranty.

Just be very careful about routing them and you will be ok. Take your time.
 






Okay, I still can't get the stupid collector bolts budged. I went and bought an air gun or whatever they're call, just the inexpensive kind from Lowes. It's rated for like 350 ft/lbs torque. Even with that I can't get them budged. It looks like the bolts and the headers are fused together.

I'm about to loose my mind! haha.

So, I have a question. If I cut the exhaust pipe right behind the flange, would the whole assembly come out together? Manifold, flange, and an inch or two of exhaust pipe after the flange?
 






I wouldn't cut the pipe- it would be LOUD until you weld it back up. I used a breaker bar, several extensions and a cheater pipe to take my bolts out. I have sheared bolts that way though.

A cheap impact won't touch those bolts, I have a 600 ft lb impact and it won't really move them.
 






I wouldn't cut the pipe- it would be LOUD until you weld it back up. I used a breaker bar, several extensions and a cheater pipe to take my bolts out. I have sheared bolts that way though.

A cheap impact won't touch those bolts, I have a 600 ft lb impact and it won't really move them.

I tried all of the above, except my impact isn't rated for that much. I have a 4 ft steel tube I was using as a breaker bar, and I couldn't keep the socket from slipping off the bolt when under load.
 


















I bought a set of metric impact sockets, and I'm using a 13mm on those bolts, but when I put torque on them they slip. I knew this job would be tough, but it's turning into a nightmare.
 






I went and borrowed a cousins impact wrench, it's a nice MAC one. He's professional mechanic. He also gave me some sort of lube spray, it's made by BG and is a green can. I still couldn't get the bolts to budge. :mad:
 






Like I said-cut the bolts between the flanges. You don't need them. You don't need to get them out of the old header either.
The bolt heads will fall out once cut
 






Every time I think about ordering them, I see stuff like this. Seems like a few people said it was a fairly easy in stall, and rest said it was a nightmare.
 






Every time I think about ordering them, I see stuff like this. Seems like a few people said it was a fairly easy in stall, and rest said it was a nightmare.

Once you have them, you get the motivation to overcome.

This is an easy modification, however you have to look deeper into who it is saying it is easy.
I think it is easy-compared to the 3 times I have pulled my engine.

It is much easier than changing a heater core. I'd rather install a set of headers than change a fuel pump.

These headers will go on this truck.
 












I haven't done it yet, but I did replace the exhaust manifold. It's easy if the bolts come out. Mine came out way easier than I thought. The joys of a 12 year old truck in the south. Rust makes any job a nightmare.
 






Like I said-cut the bolts between the flanges. You don't need them. You don't need to get them out of the old header either.
The bolt heads will fall out once cut

How do you get to the inside bolt on the passenger side? And the drivers side seems like it'd be hard to get to in order to cut them in half.
 






Remove all the bolts from the head flange, then cut the outboard bolt. Now the header should rotate enough to allow room for attacking the inboard bolt
 



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Once you cut the outboard bolt, the tension will be off and the inside bolt will become much easier to remove. If you still can't get it off...or you can't get a die grinder wheel in their to cut it, last resort you can remove the evap box. About half an hour's work and you won't believe the room.

Two last comments...do NOT use loctite on the new header installation. Use antiseize and tighten them through about three heat cycles. You don't want this problem again.

Do NOT screw around with the two right hand upper motor mount bolts. Go in through the bottom and loosen the one lower bolt with an extension and wobble socket. That alone will save you a ton of time and aggravation. Those who have worked with the two upper bolts...then try this...will be wanting to send me beer! :D
 






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