Installing my TM Headers this weekend..

[SilverBullet]

Update!

I got the passenger header out! I cut the outside bolt of, and it took many swings from the hammer but I got the header/flange assembly to rotate enough to expose the inside bolt and I was able to use my reciprocating saw to cut it out. I'm about to slide in the new TM header as I type!

 

[SilverBullet]

I got the new passenger header in place, but the exhaust pipe won't go back far enough to let the header line up with the holes and I can't tighten the engine mount bolts back down. I was hoping I wouldn't have to mess with the drivers side collector to do the passenger side, but I was wrong. I'll have to get that side loose before I can continue.

 

[Cobraguy]

Did you not read my suggestion about the two motor mount bolts??? Sheesh...

You are probably going to have to loosen the exhaust system enough to let it slide back so the header fits. These don't fit perfectly.

 

[SilverBullet]

Did you not read my suggestion about the two motor mount bolts??? Sheesh...

You are probably going to have to loosen the exhaust system enough to let it slide back so the header fits. These don't fit perfectly.

For some reason I thought you were talking about the drivers side..

 

[Cobraguy]

Now you know why I found a "better way" when it comes to those bolts. I actually pulled the header back out and did it that way. It took me about 2 seconds to realize how screwed up that procedure was. You will need to pack a lunch...and maybe a dinner too...if you screw around with those two nuts trying to tighten them.

 

[SilverBullet]

Okay, old manifolds are out. I have the drivers side in place with the two sections bolted together and I'm ready to start bolting the header in place.

My Fel-Pro gasket set came with two 'donut' looking rings and two gaskets that look like they go where the headers bolt up to the rest of the exhaust. Do those gaskets get used, or do I only use the gaskets for the header/head mating surface?

 

[Turdle]

Throw the donuts away.

 

[SilverBullet]

but they look so cool! lol.

I didn't think I needed them but I wanted to double check. These headers are going in tonight!

 

[SilverBullet]

I got the drivers side done. The hardest part was tightening the bolts that hold the two manifold sections together. Of course, it was easier once I realized I had them reversed. Once I got them going the right way (head of the bolt to the front, nut/washer toward the rear) they were fine.

I'm having tons of trouble with the passenger side though. It's tight in there. I can't get the header to rotate over on the other side of the engine mount bolts. It hangs up on the edge of the valve cover and that big box thing above the header. Can't remember what it's called, but I think Cobraguy said it's removable and makes tons of room.

 

[Cobraguy]

That's the evaporator case. You shouldn't have to remove it to make the header fit. But it makes for a lot of room if it's out of there. You don't need to remove it though. I only discovered how easy it made it when I installed a set with it out. To remove it, you need to evac the a/c system, disconnect the lines, remove the cruise servo, puke bottles, fan plugs, etc and I believe 4 nuts outside and one inside along with unplugging the vacuum line. Then it comes right out. Sounds like a lot of work, but it only takes about half an hour. But I have refrigerant recovery equipment too. Otherwise, you have to pay for an a/c evac and charge when complete. But once you have the old manifold out, I don't see a need to remove it. Well, it does make installing the EGR tube a ton easier too with it out. But there are a lot of cars with these on them that didn't do that. I wouldn't have either if I didn't have it out to replace the evaporator.

This sounds to me like you don't have the engine raised quite right on that side. Try and get it higher or lower to clear. Again, tighten down the two top mount bolts with the header out of there and go underneath and loosen the one bolt instead. This thing will go in.

 

[SilverBullet]

The higher I raise the engine, the tighter the space becomes between the engine and the evaporator box. I've tried raising it and lowering it several times during the process of getting the header in. But, I think I found a solution. The rear engine mount bolt is what's giving me trouble, but it's only in the way by like 1/8". There's plenty of bolt there, so I'm just going to cut a little bit off the top and that should do the trick.

 

[SilverBullet]

Cutting that bolt just a little bit worked. The header slid right in. The drivers side is all in and ready to go, but I'm having trouble getting to that damn inside bolt on the passenger side. The transmission dipstick tube is in the way. Argh.

 

[Cobraguy]

Believe it or not, I have a 5 foot long 1/2 in drive extension that works on that bolt. You snake it in from WAY back with a wobble socket. I bought the extension to unbolt bellhousing bolts on 4WD vehicles when I had to rebuild the trans. Tighten both bolts together, but make sure the inside gets snugged first. That way when you finish up on the outside bolt, the flange tension will actually "tighten" the inside bolt for you automatically.

Oh yea...having the evap box out of the way allows you to get that bolt too. Maybe it might be worth it after all to take that thing out from the start. Who knows.

 

[SilverBullet]

I gave up for the day, but also because of Thanksgiving lunch and the family came over.

I can't get the EGR tube off of the EGR solenoid on the back of the intake manifold. It's rusted on there good. I might just have to go buy a new EGR solenoid from Ford tomorrow.

 

[SilverBullet]

Well, I got everything in and back together. Started it up and ran it for a few minutes, pulled out into my driveway so I could clean up the garage and make enough room for the wifes car again. I still need to put my hood back on, can't really do that myself.

The only problem I now have is, my upper intake manifold is cracked now. I was tightening the intake bolts down, and I guess I went too tight too fast and the very front left corner (where the short bolt is) cracked. I'm going to JB-Weld it for now, but I guess I'm on the search for a new upper intake.

 

[rizzjc]

Ouch! That sucks. Sorry to hear it. Yeah, those were not at all tight coming off, so I only snugged them up when i put it back.

 

[MountaineerGreen]

Well, I got everything in and back together. Started it up and ran it for a few minutes, pulled out into my driveway so I could clean up the garage and make enough room for the wifes car again. I still need to put my hood back on, can't really do that myself.

The only problem I now have is, my upper intake manifold is cracked now. I was tightening the intake bolts down, and I guess I went too tight too fast and the very front left corner (where the short bolt is) cracked. I'm going to JB-Weld it for now, but I guess I'm on the search for a new upper intake.

Mine cracked, that corner of the gasket broke off, I though it'd be OK, but when I barely torqued that front corner, the manifold cracked. I found a local welder who very neatly tig welded the crack in for me. New gasket and all was well. I'd see if you can find a good welder to fix it before you seek to replace it. (These manifolds are sought after by mustang guys and are thus expensive)

 

[SilverBullet]

Help!

Ok, so Sunday my X ran fine. This morning on the way to work it ran fine. My boss asks about my headers and stuff, so we go out and I start it for him, and rev it a few times. About 30 minutes later, I go back out to leave. I start pulling out of the parking lot and my X starts running really ragged. I pull over and check all the connections and vacuum lines I can see, they all seem fine. So I go to the grocery store on the way home, all the way it runs ragged. It seems like it's trying to smooth out every once in awhile but doesn't.

On the way home from the grocery store (about 3 miles), it throws a CEL. Then, as I'm backing into my garage it starts running REAL rough. I smell a faint sulfur scent... would it be pure coincidence that my cat(s) is/are going out now? Any way to check a CEL without going to a shop? Would my cracked intake manifold be causing this?

 

[Turdle]

Ok, so Sunday my X ran fine. This morning on the way to work it ran fine. My boss asks about my headers and stuff, so we go out and I start it for him, and rev it a few times. About 30 minutes later, I go back out to leave. I start pulling out of the parking lot and my X starts running really ragged. I pull over and check all the connections and vacuum lines I can see, they all seem fine. So I go to the grocery store on the way home, all the way it runs ragged. It seems like it's trying to smooth out every once in awhile but doesn't.

On the way home from the grocery store (about 3 miles), it throws a CEL. Then, as I'm backing into my garage it starts running REAL rough. I smell a faint sulfur scent... would it be pure coincidence that my cat(s) is/are going out now? Any way to check a CEL without going to a shop? Would my cracked intake manifold be causing this?

Run it in the dark so you can find your burned, or disconnected spark plug wire.

Look over the vacuum lines real well. Did you re located your hood release cable?

 

[SilverBullet]

Run it in the dark so you can find your burned, or disconnected spark plug wire.

Look over the vacuum lines real well. Did you re located your hood release cable?

I double checked all my plug wires to make sure they're connected and out of the way. I have those plug wire insulators anyway, so they wouldn't get burned if they touch the headers.

I'll double check all my vacuum lines again.

The hood realease cable, all I did was zip tie it out of the way to something nearer the wheel well. The closest it comes to the headers is like 3-4".