Issues with Upper Control Arm Alignment Bolts

[strizzlow20]

Yesterday I managed to remove everything except for the upper control arm. Due to the beautiful design of my car I had 2 fuel lines in the way of the right bolt on the uppercontrol arm. I managed to remove that one by carefully guiding it inbetween the two lines. However on the left side I could not remove the bolt due to a large aluminum line which I believe is the power steeling line. (Im probably wrong) I was just wondering if anyone here has had that problem and what can I do to get by this line. Is there a different set of bolts I should purchase so I dont have this problem again? I plan on buying the balljoints with the greaser valves so I shouldn't have to do this again but I cannot believe this setup. I think I am going to remove the battery and the cables so I have more room to work with. Any advice or tips would be helpful. I'll be happy to post a pic as well.

 

[strizzlow20]

Additional Info

Its the Driverside by the way....

 

[Turdle]

They are a pain to get in and out. Do not give in to the temptation to put the bolts back in backwards-this will really make your alignment guy angry as it is difficult to adjust backward camber bolts.
Speaking of adjusting, do not put the factory bolts back in, They are not good enough to get a great alignment.


edited for broken link

 

[strizzlow20]

Thanks for the tip.

 

[strizzlow20]

Did you remove the battery by any chance and how did you get past the large aluminum tube???

 

[Turdle]

I did this work through the wheel wells. Do you have the inner fender liners removed?

Is that tube a vent purge test port line? if it is move it out of the way.

Can you get a picture of it?

 

[strizzlow20]

Yes I can I will have to post it tomorrow. Its held by a black bracket that is hold two fuel lines. The two fuel lines are on top and this large tube is below it.

 

[treybaxter]

Hey guys just thought I would add to the thread in case someone does a search for some help on this topic like I did this morning.

The best solution is to get a bar to pry upward under the front bushing and then pushing it inward and over the brake line behind it. This will allow enough of an angle on the rear bolt to turn it and gently nudge it over the fuel line. Repeat the same procedure when installing the new UCA. There's also a ground lug that has to be removed just in front of the rear bolt as I'm sure you've already removed. But you do not have to move the fuel lines. Or so was the case on my '97 OHV 4WD.

Hope that helped.

trey

 

[2000StreetRod]

Cut it in half

Since I have no use for the stock welded bolts I cut the hard one to get out in half. See the following link:
Replacing Camber/Caster Bolts

 

[Dan Whitaker]

They are a pain to get in and out. Do not give in to the temptation to put the bolts back in backwards-this will really make your alignment guy angry as it is difficult to adjust backward camber bolts.
Speaking of adjusting, do not put the factory bolts back in, They are not good enough to get a great alignment. Use these-

you will need 2 sets BTW

http://azcustomcars.com/product.php?productid=54313

My driver sided ones are in backward. I believe as long as you take it to a confident shop it shouldn't be a problem.

After I replaced mine and took it for a alignment they did complain but they also did not align the steering wheel.

After replacing the t-bars a few months later the second shop was clueless and took them three hours plus me and someone else telling them how to do it.

I then took it to a third place and it was done right with no complaining.

 

[TOMANDPAT]

Push in on the UCA as far as it will go. Then you can "snake" the old bolts out and back in again. I just did this last week.
Tom

 

[Thylacine]

Somewhat easy way to remove bolts

On a 1998 Explorer, 2WD, 302_V8 driver side upper control arm replacement...

Remove two bolts and two sheet metal screws holding fuel line heat shield from chassis (all 8mm), Slide fuel line heat shield UP. This exposes the bolt holding brake lines and power steering main line rubber keeper (8mm). Loosen keeper bolt but do NOT remove it.

This prework permits safe jostling of the lines and light prying of that pesky rear upper control arm bolt out of the upper control arm frame mount.
Properly done THE BOLT SHOULD *NOT* BE REMOVED. The rear upper control arm frame bolt willbe 'captured' in all the brake lines, etc and held in place until the new upper control arm is fitted in place. Then this of a bolt can easily be manipulated with the drvers side front corner of the vehicle carefully 'kneeled' down low by hand using your floor jack.

Be patient. Rotating the upper rear drivers side camber cam bolt both to-and-fro to clear the lines is necessary as it is worked back into place in order to properly seat the bolt without puncturing or damaging vital brake or steering hydraulic lines.

Do the REAR BOLT as described then do the front camber bolt AFTER the rear bolt is seated and it mating nut is gently tightened.

Ensure fuel line keeper bolt and 4 (four) fuel line heat shield bolt and screws are properly installed and tightened.

Observe original camber cam orientation when tightening control arm upper cam bolts to 83 to 111 ft*lbs.

 

[koda2000]

On a 1998 Explorer, 2WD, 302_V8 driver side upper control arm replacement...

Remove two bolts and two sheet metal screws holding fuel line heat shield from chassis (all 8mm), Slide fuel line heat shield UP. This exposes the bolt holding brake lines and power steering main line rubber keeper (8mm). Loosen keeper bolt but do NOT remove it.

This prework permits, safe jostling and light prying of that pesky rear upper control arm bolt out of the frame. Properly done THE BOLT SHOULD NO BE REMOVED. The bolt will be able to be 'captured' in all the brake lines, etc and held in place until the new upper control arm is fitted in place. Then it can be manipulated with that corner of the vehicle 'kneeled' down low from above by hand. Be patient. Turning the camber cam bolt both to-and-fro to clear the lines is necessary to properly seat the bolt. Do the REAR BOLT as described then do the front camber bolt AFTER the rear bolt is seated and the nut is gently tightened.

Ensure fuel line keeper bolt and 4 (four) fuel line heat shield bolt and screws are properly installed and tightened.

Observe original camber cam orientation when tightening control arm upper cam bolts to 65ft*lbs.

I could be mistaken, but I seem to remember the upper control arm bolt torque as 100ft lbs.

 

[DjDom]

I could be mistaken, but I seem to remember the upper control arm bolt torque as 100ft lbs.

Holy old thread bump.
3 years later..

 

[koda2000]

Holy old thread bump.
3 years later..

yes, I saw that, but the last post to it was today.

 

[1996BLKBauer]

I could be mistaken, but I seem to remember the upper control arm bolt torque as 100ft lbs.

It is 100 ft lbs. you will remember this after tightening each bolt ATLEAST 3 times.... I Hate how jouncing the car messes up the alignment angles soo much... Also I simply gently pried up on the fuel lines, and was able to get the bolt out.

 

[nimblemotors]

Shorten the Bolt!!

I just got through massive hassle getting the drivers side rear upper control arm bolt out of the car. The fuel lines are in the way, as has been documented in this thread and some others. I wanted to give my solution. SHORTEN THE BOLT.
It is much longer than it has to be, it has threads sticking out an inch from the nut. Cut off this excess length BEFORE removing the nut and trying to take it out.

Hope that helps someone. Been reading all the helpful tips, so wanted to add my own. I've now bought my 5th explorer, so I read this forum often.

 

[drdoom]

I just got through massive hassle getting the drivers side rear upper control arm bolt out of the car. The fuel lines are in the way, as has been documented in this thread and some others. I wanted to give my solution. SHORTEN THE BOLT.
It is much longer than it has to be, it has threads sticking out an inch from the nut. Cut off this excess length BEFORE removing the nut and trying to take it out.

Hope that helps someone. Been reading all the helpful tips, so wanted to add my own. I've now bought my 5th explorer, so I read this forum often.

Bada Bing! Absolutely true. The MOOG bolts can be shortened as well.

 

[XLTrunner]

What I discovered this Spring when I did mine was to loosen both bolts and shove the arm inward. The hole is slotted and just that little bit of room allows for easier removal of the rearward bolt. That, and removing the brake line retaining brkt bolt so you can gently maneuver the lines around a little bit.

Where I had an unexpected problem was the new Moog arm wouldn't slide into place. The overall width of the bushed ends was slightly too wide to fit no matter what I tried. Finally decided the only option was to grind a little off both until it did slip into place.