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Completed Project Kirby's 1991 Ranger Build Up

Use this prefix for completed projects that are not "How to" articles or threads asking for help.
I haven't posted much here since I sold my 1993 Mazda Navajo around 2010 or 2011. It was 10 years in the making and finally to a solid, reliable state. I had some other priorities and decided to sell it and get something more versatile. I will include some pictures below of its developing states and final state when I sold it below. In the end, it had 37" MTRs, Arb front, detroit rear, 4.56 gears, D and D doubler and I built all the armor and the Dana 44 front Solid Axle Swap.

James duff 3.5" VR coil lift, 235" defender tires and a home made heavy ugly bumper (around 2000 when I bought it) :
Before.jpg


2001 with 33x10.50s and James duff 4.5" lift with extended radius arms, manual hubs and new auto tranny:
33sand4inch.jpg

Here it is just after the SAS with 34s and a swapped in manual tcase and tranny:

864825-R1-044-20A.jpg


Winching out of Mikeys hot tub circa 2002 or so

Tub.jpg


Stuck on a tree just after 37s
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37s, winch bumper rebuild etc
IMG_0388.jpg


Final State Explorerforum moab trip 2010

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MoabMay2010217.jpg


Last Poser Shots
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I hear it still gets around Colorado and Utah and I have had buddies call me with airings from time to time.

I have had a few rangers and one explorer since I sold my explorer.
Here are some pics of those:

Beat up 1994 Ranger 2.4l ($250)
IMG_1339.jpg


Traded 1993 Ranger 4.0l and an abused auto tranny

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1991 Manual Tcase and Tranny Explorer Sport

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We have also had a ton of cool Jeeps. Here are a couple of pics, along with our current Jeep which we are hanging on to:

2005 unlimited Rubicon Sahara 5.7 L Hemi
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2005 unlimited Rubicon 35s and 4" lift
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Our Current 2005 Unlimited Rubicon 4" Lift 315 Kevlars
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It does great grocery getter, family truckster, and occasional wekend wheeler, but I need a truck and I miss my exploder, so I decided to build a Ranger. However, I want to build it a little different this time.

I have always wanted to build a 1989-1992 ranger, so I spent a considerable amount of time looking for a low mile one with the right engine, tranny and tcase in good shape. 4.0l, m5od and 1354M stock. My explorer ended up with this combo, but started out as an auto tranny and tcase. This made for a ton of modifications and headaches with my explorer. Rangers can be had in many other undesirable configurations because they were available with 3 different v6s in 1989-92 and a 4cylinder. It proved to be a difficult task. Finally in the fall of 2012 I picked this one up. A 1991 4.0l manual tranny and transfer case 4x4 extended cab "mountain States Edition. It had 130k on it and ran great. The paint was toast, it had a rusty bed and (my biggest complaint) it had no factory air.

IMG_2624.jpg


I drove it for a year until I was ready to have it painted. I fixed a bunch on it- thermostat, muffler, wheel bearings, brakes, had a new headliner installed, etc. When I got a quote for the paint (one solid color and fix the dings) it was 2k. So then I started thinking I better look for a different ranger to build! I settled on this one. It too is a 1991, it has air (huge plus after not having it in my other truck all summer), manual case and tranny and everything else and a 4.0. The body is really straight no rust and the interior is super nice. The odo read 83k and I believed it.
IMG_2956.jpg



Since then I tracked down the original and only owner to find it has 183 k on it and they were all hwy miles. The only complaints I have is I wish it had the other mirrors and pop out extended cab windows. I can deal with those, though. This truck has been taken care of.

First order of business was a tune up, brakes and leaky valve cover gaskets.

The build plan is pretty simple: build it similar to how my explorer ended up, with out all the half builds in between. It took me a lot of work and money to get my explorer to preform well off-road and on the street and be reliable. On this one I want to skip all the poor performing, cheapskate half steps I took with the explorer.

My goal is to end up with a reliable, daily drive able, off-road capable ranger that will make a great driver, great work truck and great expo vehicle. I like the idea of a truck over a explorer sport because I need to haul dirt bikes and Sheetrock and plywood and all kinds of stuff all the time so I always needed a pickup when I had the explorer even though I wanted to drive the explorer all the time. Hopefully this will do both functions well.

So far, I have installed:

A blue tooth pioneer stereo (replacing the stock tape deck)
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A optima yellow top
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A Black grill and headlight bezels along with new headlights:
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The only body work it needs is the topper it had on it was put on with a loose and poorly placed clamp that rubbed a hole in the bed cap. I will weld it up and hopefully add a LineX bedliner over the top
IMG_2962.jpg


I purchased a Dana 44 out of a 76 f150 with no guts or outers for a $50 bill. I still have my spare warn premium hubs off my ex, and I plan to build this one stout before I put it in and leave it full width but move the c bushings in about 2" per side. I will likely then run stock style f150 wheels with stock backspacing and 35s or 37s as skinny as I can find. It will get a full rebuild and at least 4.88s, maybe 5.13s. I am not decided on radius arms yet. I suppose extended ones are on the bill instead of the stock wristed ones I had before, but I haven't sorted that out yet. The wrist traveled fine but it clunked and made a racket and it was also a pain to get out and pull the pin when it was time to wheel. Extended arms won't perform quite as well on the street as the stock length ones did with the pin in, but longer arms should stream line things.

For the rear I will rebuild a full width late model 31 spline 8.8 put of a bronco or f150 and install explorer disk brakes. I will likely need to have the axle flanges turned down and drill the rotors for the new bolt pattern.

I will extend the wheel base around 3" by moving the front axle forward and leave the rear axle centered in the wheel well. I plan to leave the bed size stock as I need the truck to haul stuff all the time. I will build bumpers and sliders before I beat it up this time.

Stay Tuned, I am picking up the front axle tomorrow.
 



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Since I'm still following this thread, I'll add my experience.

I bought a Motorcraft compressor from RockAuto for my 5.0L. At the time of conversion, I also converted the A/C to R-134. Once plumbed and charged, the system worked fine.

After a couple of years, the compressor locked up. Of course, it was out of warranty, so it was on me to replace it.

Turns out, the compressor which I though was NEW was actually rebuilt in Mexico. Now, it should have been fine, it was Motorcraft. But, it failed.

I did get another Motorcraft to replace it.
Thanks Scott. So don’t you recommend a motorcraft one or no?
 



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Thanks Scott. So don’t you recommend a motorcraft one or no?
I wasn't going to recommend or not - LOL

It worked fine, until it didn't. No idea why it failed.

But, I have seen a lot of off-brand parts be absolute junk. On my 5.0L, I stayed with known good parts/brands.

But a lifetime warranty is a good thing to have. Getting to your compressor is much easier than getting to the one on the 5.0.

Of course, you only need your A/C for a week in July, so it's kind of a moot point! ;)
 






Funny funny funny I have two 4.3 engines in my shop right now and a Chevy 1500 on the trailer. Why you ask? Well we are putting a 04’vortec 4.3 into a 95 s10 for my neighbors son and we are also converting his 99 s10
Blazer to a 5.7 at the same time! These are my first real Chevy projects lol…. Big learning curve.

Once you have Black Death you compressor is doomed, or so they say. Autozone warranty might be just the ticket!! Good thinking dudes

Modern chevys are awful to work on and s10s are completely miserable. Count on unhooking the body to get that 4.3 in and out. If I remember correctly the s10 was designed for a 60 degree v6, then they put in the 90 degree 4.3 and lazy like Chevy they didn’t redesign anything to accommodate. So even changing the spark plugs around the steering shaft is miserable. I like the ls platform, but I can’t get over how Chevy short cuts and half ***** everything. Just looking at thier new trucks with frames and gas tanks hanging below the body a foot- it’s absurd. The new Vettes are finally cool. For years though, they were so lazily behind the times on tech. Camaros too. Garbage. Ok rant over. Good luck buddy
 






Of course, you only need your A/C for a week in July, so it's kind of a moot point! ;)
That’s what everyone says- but when you don’t have it you realize you need it more than a week- atleast in my climate. Heck last week it was 80 degrees and I had the ac blasting in my wife’s jeep.
 






Yes the s10 4.3 oil pan is a joke seriously have to lift the body to pull the engine out
The lack of engineering is quite evident

My neighbor is a Chevy guy (obviously)
Right now there are 3 chevys down two of them lost oil pressure the other leaked so
Much fuel from the tbi it took out the engine
Two years ago we build a ranger together, 99 was 3.0 now 4.0 and 5 speed, we bartered for his half (he built addition on my house) guess what he drives every single day….his wife won’t let him sell the ranger, ever.
 






Yes the s10 4.3 oil pan is a joke seriously have to lift the body to pull the engine out
The lack of engineering is quite evident

My neighbor is a Chevy guy (obviously)
Right now there are 3 chevys down two of them lost oil pressure the other leaked so
Much fuel from the tbi it took out the engine
Two years ago we build a ranger together, 99 was 3.0 now 4.0 and 5 speed, we bartered for his half (he built addition on my house) guess what he drives every single day….his wife won’t let him sell the ranger, ever.
Ah yes the spider web of tbi hoses that fall apart. I don’t envy you on this one buddy.
 






Tbi is the stupid two injectors mfi was switched to half way through 95 which is the spider with the hoses
Of course we are working on a 95
The nice part is the aftermarket support Edelbrock makes a lower intake that allows a carb to go on…. Lucky Chevy guys
 






There is no unlike button or I would hit it for your last post.
 






Well they are not that lucky the stupid vortec head to carb intake is $400 and on back order through July
 






most vehicles, going to a carb would be backwards... not that piece of chevy
 






Well, it has begun. I ordered a ton of parts. Like a ton. IDK if I said yet, but the block is a 98-2000 remanufactured motorcraft short block. I got some new old stock 95TM heads off eBay. New melling rockers and lifters. New for pushrods. New seals and gaskets. New water pump. New everything I could think of.

I have a crazy summer planned- but my little girl is going to be 16 in a week and I need to let her drive her bronco- so I started yanking the engine.


Engine Swap 2.jpg


I started with the tranny. I am going to have it rebuilt using a 4 cylinder 1st, 2nd, and 3rd gear set. I need to grab a 4 cylinder tranny from a junk yard.

Engine Swap.jpg


Engine Swap 3.jpg


Started taking apart the old engine. Not stoked to get it all cleaned up. There is a lot to do. It was leaking like a gunshot wound for years.

Engine Swap 4.jpg


Pretty good internal shape. Pushrods are definitely worn. My kid thought she was funny with the pushrods. There was a ton of oil in the intake and exhaust. Like a ton. lol.

I ordered some ford grey paint for the new motor and some engine primer.

What do you guys think of using synthetic oil with a new engine? I am a conventional dude. Its what it was designed to run. So I always run that. But I have heard that if you start a new engine with synthetic, you can run it for life and it is better.
 






A 98-2000 ford ohv would have been filled with full synthetic from day one from the factory.
I have never run conventional oil in a 4.0 or 5.0 always full synthetic, I have no leaks
In a brand new engine I would actually run break in oil for 500 miles
Then switch to synthetic

The last jasper 306 I did we used amsoil break in oil for 500 miles then switched to amsoil full synthetic

Your drivers radius arm is missing a bolt lol lol lol really nice setup you have there!! Lifts are so handy
 






That settles it then. Thank you.

How do you guys feel about the melling high volume oil pump? My new engine came with an oil pump- probably a motorcraft one- but I have been reading mixed stuff about a high volume pump.

Also, does anyone know a trick to get hooked to the oil pump from the top of the motor to prime before starting? I don’t think there is a tool made for it.
 






Yes! Flexible extension/ drive fits right on the oil pump shaft so you can use a drill to pre oil, although it’s not totally necessary with these modern reman engines, the engine is full of assembly lube/ parts are “pre oiled”.
You can simply pull fuel pump fuse and crank the starter a few times to build pressure

Melling pump is fine high volume or not they are quality, I’ve always used melling oil pumps I’m pretty sure they were always labeled “high volume” never had oil pressure issue with a “refreshed ohv” we have done.
 






Well, it has begun. I ordered a ton of parts. Like a ton. IDK if I said yet, but the block is a 98-2000 remanufactured motorcraft short block. I got some new old stock 95TM heads off eBay. New melling rockers and lifters. New for pushrods. New seals and gaskets. New water pump. New everything I could think of.

I have a crazy summer planned- but my little girl is going to be 16 in a week and I need to let her drive her bronco- so I started yanking the engine.


View attachment 430109

I started with the tranny. I am going to have it rebuilt using a 4 cylinder 1st, 2nd, and 3rd gear set. I need to grab a 4 cylinder tranny from a junk yard.

View attachment 430108

View attachment 430110

Started taking apart the old engine. Not stoked to get it all cleaned up. There is a lot to do. It was leaking like a gunshot wound for years.

View attachment 430111

Pretty good internal shape. Pushrods are definitely worn. My kid thought she was funny with the pushrods. There was a ton of oil in the intake and exhaust. Like a ton. lol.

I ordered some ford grey paint for the new motor and some engine primer.

What do you guys think of using synthetic oil with a new engine? I am a conventional dude. Its what it was designed to run. So I always run that. But I have heard that if you start a new engine with synthetic, you can run it for life and it is better.
first off- happy early birthday!!!!

second- i always use synthetic. during break in ill use conventional,, but following that syn is all it gets :D been using syn in all the vehicles since post break in, my sohc is pushing 330k, got a honda pushin 130 iirc;) so i agree with 410 here! and you have a lift in your garage?!??! so jealous of you and 410... after the RC lift and some bigger tires, i canteven jack my rig up without hitting hte rafters!!!
 












I built my engine with a high volume melling pump. I figured it was better to get the oil up into the rockers than the normal pump. I run about a 1/2 quart extra in my pan because of the high volume. I have maybe 8-10k on it so far with no problems.

I tore apart a camshaft sensor from a 94 to use as an oil prime tool just before installing my engine. I ran it with a drill motor and a piece of rubber hose clamped to it. I also used Lucas assembly lube on the wear points.
 






Do not use synthetic on your 1st oil fill it's too slippery
Your engine will not break in properly go 3,000 m then put Full synthetic oil in your engine

The piston rings can't seal on the cylinder walls with synthetic oil during break-in 2 slippery This will cause your engine to burn oil
 






first off- happy early birthday!!!!

second- i always use synthetic. during break in ill use conventional,, but following that syn is all it gets :D been using syn in all the vehicles since post break in, my sohc is pushing 330k, got a honda pushin 130 iirc;) so i agree with 410 here! and you have a lift in your garage?!??! so jealous of you and 410... after the RC lift and some bigger tires, i canteven jack my rig up without hitting hte rafters!!!
Thanks- I’ll tell my kid happy bday from you!

I’ll find some break on oil for the first change and the rest I’ll run synthetic. I definitely don’t want to go this far and skimp on the oil.

Sounds like the high volume oil pump is a good call too. It is going to cost me around $200 dollars- but again I will do it if it is the right thing to do. Don’t want to skimp and cut corners- want it to be done right.
 



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Thanks- I’ll tell my kid happy bday from you!

I’ll find some break on oil for the first change and the rest I’ll run synthetic. I definitely don’t want to go this far and skimp on the oil.

Sounds like the high volume oil pump is a good call too. It is going to cost me around $200 dollars- but again I will do it if it is the right thing to do. Don’t want to skimp and cut corners- want it to be done right.
alright! 16 is a big milestone- thats next year for me 🤣 and cool cool keep us posted on the motor, love this build!!!!
 






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