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Land Rover LR3 4.0L V6 Replace with 2008 Ranger VIN E

Make me feel really good and tell my it's an old CRT Analog scope.....
Had an old Tektronix analog but got rid of it about 2 years ago and got a Hantek DSO5072P, which is solid state and has a color display, all for about $350. It is hard to believe that something my former employer paid $20K for 30 years ago is replaced by a 350 dollar machine that is smaller and better. Just a sign of the times...
 



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Wednesday June 26, oil pressure was 55, compression seems to be high also about 190 in all cylinders, now waiting for my long distance trucker friend to get back so we can move the Land Rover out to the shop, Moroso and all fittings also here...
 






Sunday June 30

Well, Mr. Land Rover is out at the shop and on the lift, will be starting on Wednesday...

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Wednesday July 03

Hood is off (thank goodness it is aluminum), engine fan clutch is right hand thread (lefty loosely), and there is no drain valve for engine coolant, just pull off the hoses. More next week (with photos)...
 






Before tearing into this again next week, what are people's thoughts on removing the torque converter with the engine vs unbolting it and just pulling the engine with the flex plate? I am assuming that the flex plate only option gives you a bit more room to back and forth the engine? The engine compartment on this Land Rover is pretty tight...

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Leave the TC on the trans, it won't come out in the space you have. It's not hard, just pull the four nuts from the TC, plus while there, then, measure the gap to the TC.

With the engine still on the trans, push the TC back as far as it will go, and note the gap between the flexplate and the TC. When you put the trans back on the engine, that gap must be virtually the same, or the TC isn't seated fully
, which kills the pump.
 






Well done, and the oil pressure sensor fitting and pipe is 1/4" NPT, so make it bigger than 1/4" ID, a #6 AN hose would be good.
Just picked up 4 feet of #6AN 300 psi rated oil hose, should hold that 4.0...
 






Leave the TC on the trans, it won't come out in the space you have. It's not hard, just pull the four nuts from the TC, plus while there, then, measure the gap to the TC.

With the engine still on the trans, push the TC back as far as it will go, and note the gap between the flexplate and the TC. When you put the trans back on the engine, that gap must be virtually the same, or the TC isn't seated fully
, which kills the pump.
Thanks Don, will be doing this within the next several days...
Eric...
 






Well, the step #3 to remove the starter motor per the Land Rover documentation is to "remove the exhaust system", preceded by the transmission support bracket, which is a big pain in the backside, we followed some kind Youtuber's advice to remove the driver's side exhaust manifold, it was much easier. Unfortunately we broke the oil temperature sensor plug, so going to have to source that somewhere...
 






Tuesday July 09
Attached is after we got the custom aluminum intake manifold off and discovered the remnants of a large mouse nest, no mice though. Looks like Land Rover designed this for the body to be taken off the frame to perform mechanical work, took all day to get this manifold off...

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July 16 and engine is out, unfortunately the block on the Land Rover Cologne has different mounting holes in the casting for the engine mount brackets so we have to fabricate the driver's side and perhaps can get away with "adjusting" the passenger side, plus the engine driver's side knock sensor is going to have to be examined as there is no engine side knock sensor on the Ranger. Photos attached

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This is the Ranger driver side engine block/oil pan

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Land Rover driver side engine block/oil pan
 






Well my friend is fabricating an engine mount for the driver's side, and attached is a picture of our homemade plumb bob and engine mount measuring device. I wanted to use lasers but string was easier and likely better... First picture is of Rube Goldberg type measuring arrangement, second is of the accuracy using the Land Rover driver's side "aluminium" mounting bracket and our positioning device to accurately locate the frame rubber mounted center bolt. More to come...

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July 18
Attached photos of new and somewhat improved engine mount plus engine oil temperature sensor installation into Ranger oil pan (blue stuff is Permatex silicone)... Edited to add silicone

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Great job
 






Revised engine mount, having a hard time finding the pigtail replacement, going to the Ford dealer next...

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Ford pigtail repair WPT-1231 (3U2Z-14S411-DVAB) which I received today seems to be a perfect fit, won't know for sure until Monday...
 






Lots of stuff done today, pigtail for oil temp sensor soldered in and protected with plastic sleeve, flex plate positioned correctly for CKP sensor and torqued, discovered that LR3 engine had all passenger side exhaust valves bent and that is where the chain slipped/failed. Very happy now that we decided to pull and replace the engine rather than replace the front timing chain, that would have been a huge mistake! Likely placing engine into the LR3 tomorrow and hopefully only minimal problems...

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Drivers side (Front Chain)

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Passenger side (Rear Chain)

Excuse the old tire, we'll surely recycle it!
 






BTW, do you have any extra room below the oil filter, for a longer filter? If you do in that truck, you could swap the block oil filter adapter, for an older model, and those take the FL1A(quart size) filter. I don't think there are any bigger alternatives for the FL820S, which I have on three of my Fords. The older 4.0's and the first models of the SOHC used the FL1A, only the adapter is different.
 






Not sure about how much room there is, the previous photo shows the Ranger oil filter fitting on the LR3 engine, there is a tab on the upper right corner that stops it from being used on the LR3 (we could have ground it off), but I'll check out a larger filter, we just found out that the Moroso pre oiler fittings I got are too large (1/4 NPT to 1/2 NPT I think) and we'll have to custom fit my solenoid to the accumulator, blah, blah, blah. Also the engine transmission to rear of engine bolts were all good until we tried the one where the alignment pin on the drivers side goes in, and we had to saw off 1/8" on the bolt because the tapped casting on the corner is about 3/16" less thick and the longer bolt was having a problem. But hey!, Don't bigger impact tools solve those problems? Attached photo shows Mr. Ranger meeting Mr. LR3 for the first time... It is a bit out of focus, used my phone instead of my camera (forgot it at home)

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The oil filter points straight down, so a longer filter can work if the original filter had more clearance below it in stock form.
 






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