Lifting

[haole10]

yea i know, i figured i would start out w/ the lift and tires and rims, then start moding out other stuff that i could get away w/ not having for a couple months...but i bought the car for about 2500. so far the lift is over 1k, i dont mid that, tires and rims is about 800 dont mind that, but this gear ratiuos changing, idk....will it seriously **** up my tranny and **** if i dont do it??? my truck is a 5spd of that matters any

 

[Robb]

What is your stock gear ratio?

If you are just looking at a total lift of 6", 33"s are your best bet...........and if you have 4.10s (and even 3.73s), you could probably get away with not regearing.

 

[haole10]

umm idk, how would i find that out??

 

[Robb]

Go out to your truck, open the driver's door, look at the sticker in the door jamb. There will be a block that says "Axle" in it, underneath that will be a code (like D2 or 46). Go get that code and post it here.

 

[haole10]

ehh it said 41 i think...so that means 3.27?

 

[Redrig]

yep. and im pretty sure thats an open diffy

 

[Robb]

Yep, that is an open diff with 3.27:1 ratio.

Hmmmm..................how to put this gently.........

Basically, if you plan on running any tire over 30", overall performane will be poor with 3.27 gears. To regear both axles, you are looking at anywhere from $1000-$1500.

Hate to throw you this news, but this a cost you are going to have to include if you are planning on lifting your rig and running big tires.

 

[Doug]

You can get away with running 33s and 3.27s I did it for a little while before i went to 4.10s. but it really kills your gas mileage and it's hard on all the components.

 

[haole10]

F F F F F F F F F F F F F !!!!!!!


what the ****!!

damnitdamnitdamnit damnitdamnitdamnit damnitdamnitdamnitdamnitdamnitdamnitdamnit damnitdamnitdamnitdamnitdamnitdamnitdamnit damnitdamnitdamnitdamnitdamnitdamnitdamnit damnitdamnitdamnitdamnitdamnitdamnitdamnit damnitdamnitdamnitdamnitdamnitdamnitdamnit damnitdamnitdamnitdamnitdamnitdamnitdamnit damnitdamnitdamnitdamnitdamnitdamnitdamnit damnitdamnitdamnitdamnitdamnitdamnitdamnit damnitdamnitdamnitdamnitdamnitdamnitdamnit damnitdamnitdamnitdamnitdamnitdamnitdamnit damnitdamnitdamnitdamnitdamnitdamnitdamnit damnitdamnitdamnitdamnitdamnitdamnitdamnit


gonna have to buy a new truck now

 

[RFR2212]

Yeah, I really don't care to read anymore through this thread, but how do you seriously plan to use this truck? Daily driver? Wheeler? What? that will make a better decision. Maybe going 6in lift isn't the right thing to do....

 

[haole10]

well since i didnt go away to college this year i was goin to spend my tim e at my community collge turnig it into a wheeler because when i go away next year i dont need it.


but i geuss im not doing that anymore


geuss ill just take all that oney i saved and got to costa rica for two months and go on that surf trip i have been planning for the past few years



im sooo pissed right now

 

[X-1]

Not the end of the world, I ran same gears with 33's and it was fine. No major torque at take off, but acceptable. You can find a wrecked ex for lower gears, I have found more sports with the 3.73, and 4.10 ratio. Also on your front you need a drop pittman arm, and astaybalizer to reduce bump steer. You could also go with a 4 inch kit, and 32's, then your gear ratio won't seem so bad.

 

[Webster3]

I have 3.73's so it's hard for me to say what the 3.27's would be like, but I can tell you that with a 4" lift and 32's I jump off the line... I can't imagine you'd have that tough of a time with the 3.27's if you stick with 32's.

Let me give you a couple other encouragements on the 4" lift. I didn't have to extend the brake lines - they re-ran them, no driveshaft issues, the rear leafts from the kit are the perfect size so no SOA or shackles, no steering extension, etc.

With the 4" kit, you really don't have extras to buy or do... the kit is pretty complete (at least my Skyjacker Class I was). If you go Class II there is more work but still easy compared to going 6".

I'm very happy with the 4" and 32's right now... you don't need to start out with a monster truck to have fun.

Ed

 

[haole10]

is there a reason why the skyjacker 4" class 1 is more than the skyjacker 6" class 1?


now if i change the gear ratio, whats gonna cost the bulk of the money, the gears, or the install?

cause i went to ebay and found a whole bunch of 3.55 3.75 and 4.10 gears w/ the pinion for like a hundred bucks

 

[Webster3]

I'm not sure what is included with the 6" kit... you may want to see if they include the leaf springs on that kit... that may be the reason for the 4" being higher priced. I think someone here on this board mentioned that they no longer make 6" leaf springs.

Ed

 

[RFR2212]

the class I kit drops the stock radius arms, and their mounting bracket. A class II lift includes longer beefier arms, new mounts for them, and a new transmission crossmember

 

[Webster3]

Maybe slightly off topic, but how hard is it to install that Skyjacker radius arm? Is there a thread anywhere on that procedure?

Ed

 

[haole10]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...tegory=33731&item=2437294927#ebayphotohosting



should i go for it???



its 4.10 gears fornt and rear i believe

 

[Webster3]

I guess it depends on what his reserve is. Don't forget you need to find 4.10s for the front too.

Ed

 

[Premier]

Originally posted by haole10
now if i change the gear ratio, whats gonna cost the bulk of the money, the gears, or the install?

I got my gears from a member here on the board. They were pretty cheap, but I also have to buy master install kits for them. The labor from 4wheelparts for front and rear install is 600$. So for me to regear it is going to run me near 1000-1100$. So what im saying it is near the same. Unless you buy everything from the shop new, then parts would be more.