Looking for info on tow bars...for Nissan

[Dannyboy]

Instead of renting a uhaul trip for an upcoming travel I decided why not spend the same amount of money for a tow bar to put on the front of my fiance's Xterra. I can't really think of a good reason other than owning equipment vs. renting (well, if I wanted to get drunk at the bar I could make my fiance come pick me up and then attach her Xterra behind my Super Duty too so I didn't need to get my car in the morning)

I can't find a Nissan Site that I liked so I figured I'd ask the question here and see what everyone who has done this has used as far as brands. It looks like I'm limited to a few mfgs but the truck is on the approved list

http://www.roadmasterinc.com/bg_/bg_rmi_std.pdf

So I do I know if I need to disco driveshafts? A buddy just did this on a Jeep KJ and said it worked awesome, barely dented his fuel mileage and really handled well behind his silverado.

So anyone have experience with the "universal" tow base mounts instead of the vehicle specific ones that are 4x the money?

 

[Tbars4]

...Is the Xterra auto or manual and what yr. is it?

 

[Tbars4]

...First thing, check the owner's manual under recreational towing...

...Good beginner info on "Toads" and "Dinghy's"...
http://www.campingworld.com/tLibrary/printer.cfm?id=749773

...About the 4th or 5th vehicle down om this page...
http://www.rvtoads.com/toadblog/category/approved-dinghys/nissan/

...Xterra towing stuff...
http://www.autoanything.com/suv/nissan/xterra/95A4A9A2800.aspx

...JCWhitney...
http://www.jcwhitney.com/jcwhitney/textsearch_result.jcw?sku=towbar&shopid=100008&_requestid=391633

general towbars and accessories..
http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/...ium=ppc&utm_campaign=TW&utm_term=TW_{keyword}

...I have learned that newer vehicles don't always tow well, even with the drive shafts off...I just talked to a guy the other day who said he went through 3 rear ends in a year...The salesman sold him the vehicle could be towed and put it in writing that it could be towed behind an rv...After 3rd rear end, dealership informed owner it was in the owners manual it could not be towed...

 

[Dannyboy]

It's a 2004 4x4 with a 5 speed manual transmission.

I know guys like Fakrwee tow 1,000 miles to Moab and I don't think he's had any rear end issues.

Thanks for the links Ted, I've been looking at those. I may even look at getting something fabbed with a couple of 2" receivers on the front (again, similar to Fakrwee) for a hidden approach. There are plenty of universal bars out there, just curious how those work out.


As for towing specifics, it IS listed as a vehicle that IS able to be towed 4 down (found this on the owner's manual). Contrary to what I would have thought, you leave the transfer case in 2H and the transmission in N. It suggests that every 500 miles to turn the vehicle on for a few minutes to move the fluid. I guess leaving the transfer case engaged it allows the fluid to "slosh" around keeping everything properly lubricated.

I've learned more about flat towing than I thought I'd ever need to know. FYI, sounds like Jeep is the vehicle of choice if you want to tow 4 down. I'm amazed to hear that RVer's pay $1150 for a "quick disconnect" for driveshafts and then another $500 for a tow base. For that money a guy could get a 16' flatbed trailer for a little more money...I guess storage is the unknown variable.

 

[Tbars4]

...For the past few months I have been dealing with RV'ers almost daily...(possible future project)...and they like the universal bars and use them all the time...For long term they move up to the custom or vehicle exclusive tow bars...

...You use to be able to rent or buy these tow bars at Uhaul, Penske, Ryder, for one way or local use and they would know the vehicle specifics...Now you may find them also at Camping world or other large RV Rental, supply, sales and service companies...
http://www.campingworld.com/

 

[Tbars4]

...I seen your edit...

..Yes, flat towing seems to be a whole new world...I have been studying this myself lately and shees, there is a lot to know and buy up front...

...I snagged these pics today for you...This is a 95 Ranger 2wd set up as a toad...I thought it might give you an idea of how to build one...

..This view is from the front right tire looking over toward the front left headlamp...

 

[Dannyboy]

Thanks Ted. I found my brand of choice in the demco 9517114 at about $260 although I may have a fabricator make me something similar with tabs and a center receiver hitch (what can i say, the Xterra isn't a bad little SUV with stock tires 32" tall, it's going to be a nice little potential thrillseeker and it never hurts to have the ability to hook up a winch)

To make a legal toad each state varies but the budget can be looked at as
1) tow bar $59-350
2) mounting plate for toad $260-400
3) lighting kit 20-200
4) brake assist kit about $1000
5) drive shaft disconnect (if needed) $1000

From what I'm reading state laws definitely vary from requiring the brake assist to requiring the RV to be able to stop in a reasonable distance (which would require the brake assist to pass that test). Also the brake assist lessens any chance that the toad would actually dive or jump the towbar and end up in the back or under the RV (sounds like a disaster).

Definite advantages to look at a vehicle with a manual transmission but if you add up everything I pointed out above you're well on your way to the purchase of a nice trailer. I'm going to not worry about the brake kit and I don't need any driveshaft disco luckily.

Meeting the fabricator next week but it's be as simple as a set of tabs that would look like this.

 

[Tbars4]

...Please take plenty of pics ...and then bring it up to Crown King next month...

 

[Dannyboy]

uhhh, I don't have permission to wheel this...yet...but it has been promised that I can have it to tear into in about 4-5 years. Would be the perfect truck to get my nephews driving and working on trucks. I gotta give Ali credit, she had a dodge Neon she drove for almost 8 years and always gave that car plenty of love and maintenance. She loved not having a car payment for like 4 years and then even getting like 1600 cash back when she finally let go of the thing. It drove like a champ, just didn't want that to be her car when we were dating long distance...however this same attitude doesn't allow me to take the Xterra off the HWY even on a road trip.


BUT you know how the bug works, she isn't aware that she's already enjoying a 1.5-2" TT to level out the front (I can't stand these with the bad factory rake, she had no clue) and I'll be buying a winch soon enough that can go between all the trucks...just in case ya know.

 

[Tbars4]

..Let her do the driving at Crown King...:biggthump

..I would make sure those tabs for the front hitch would also double as a place to put clevis hooks for front recovery points..

 

[tdavis]

HarborFreight has their tow bar on sale this week.

For long distance flat tows, I'd pop the drive shaft off. I plan to do it on the zuk - even though I now have a true neutral in the t-case.

 

[Dannyboy]

from what I'm reading on the RV forums it's the "N" on the t-case that gets people into trouble. You're supposed to leave that in 2H to keep the gears turning to keep things cool and the manual transmission in "N". The Nissan owners manual also states similar info.

Auto tranny is a different story, perhaps an Atlas is also a different story as well.

 

[tdavis]

Atlas II's have a true neutral - only the rear drive shaft and the out put shaft turns.

The samurai's tcase, when put in a factory neutral setting, connects the front output shaft to the rear output shaft, therefor turning both shafts. This is why disconnects are so popular. With a twin stick, when the tcase is placed in neutral, only the rear driveshaft and the rear output gear turns.

I found in my zuk, the gear drag can cause a transmission or tcase in neutral to still turn.