Lowering a 4WD/AWD 95-01 Explorer/Ranger

[JoshT]

I've got a 99 Ranger 4.0L 4x4. For many years it has been my only truck, I needed 4wd for offroad and hunting duties. That has changed. I want a lowered, truck for use as a semi daily around town and highway cruiser. Well not so much lowered, but lower than it is now and lower than it was stock. Still probably stock 2wd height or taller. It used to wear 32" tires, currently has 255/70R16, so about 30" tires and will possibly want to go smaller when these wear out.

Truck currently has Explorer rear springs in place of the factory springs and lift blocks, as well as the "chevy lowering" shackles you find at the local auto parts store that are good for somewhere around a 2" lift. The front suspension has the torsion bars cranked to match the rear.

The rear end is the easy part. An easily removable 4" by going back to stock springs and shackles and leaving the blocks out, which I plan to do soon since I have a 2wd (coil sprting) parts truck that I need to scrap before too much longer. If I need lower I heard that belltech has a shackle out now which should drop me another inch,. Beyond that we're getting into axle or hangar flips, but I doubt I'll go that far. Well maybe doing a spring under Explorer axle and raising the rear back up to compensate. dunno: we'll see)

The front is where it gets a little trickier. Nobody on the Ranger forums tries to lower a 4x4 and talks about it. I know it can be done. I've seen pictures of it done to AWD Explorers here. I've seen pictures on a Ranger that is kind of my inspiration. Was done by a someone that may be, or have been, a member here (95offroadX). SLA 4x4 dropped on 275/60R17 & 285/60R17 and IIRC he talked about the possibility of going lower, but I think he ended up selling and/or going back to lifted.

I know that I can uncrank the torsion bar adjusters to get some drop, but will I be able to get enough from just uncranking them? If I go so far as to compeltely removed the bolts will the suspension still stay together? Are there lowering torsion keys or other components needed to go lower? I know that they existed for lifting and that later models supposedly has less ride height from factory due to different keys.

Also, roughly speaking how low can one go before running into issues with CV axles and/or suspension and alignment? IIRC you can only lift so much before the stock axle shafts become an issue, so I would imagine that the same issue would be true for lowering. I don't remember how much lift it was, and I might never get low enough for it to matter. Alignment and suspension binding is always an issue with lifting or lowering, but companies make parts for correctiung that with a 4x4 lift. Not sure if the same stuff exist for a lowering one.

My 99 came withe the PVH system and currently has AVM or Rugged Ridge manual locking hubs installed. I want to covert to live axles like the Explorers and later Rangers. Might swap out knuckles for larger brakes at the same time. In the live axle components (differential, hubs, bearings, etc) is there any difference between the components used in a 4wd and AWD, Explorer or Ranger? Ranger parts might be easier to find used, but a 5.0L AWD swap might be somewhere in my future. EDIT: The conversion to live axles is for wheel selection and to get rid of failure prone hubs, not for a future AWD swap.

 

[Fix4Dirt]

I've got a 99 Ranger 4.0L 4x4. For many years it has been my only truck, I needed 4wd for offroad and hunting duties. That has changed. I want a lowered, truck for use as a semi daily around town and highway cruiser. Well not so much lowered, but lower than it is now and lower than it was stock. Still probably stock 2wd height or taller. It used to wear 32" tires, currently has 255/70R16, so about 30" tires and will possibly want to go smaller when these wear out.

Truck currently has Explorer rear springs in place of the factory springs and lift blocks, as well as the "chevy lowering" shackles you find at the local auto parts store that are good for somewhere around a 2" lift. The front suspension has the torsion bars cranked to match the rear.

The rear end is the easy part. An easily removable 4" by going back to stock springs and shackles and leaving the blocks out, which I plan to do soon since I have a 2wd (coil sprting) parts truck that I need to scrap before too much longer. If I need lower I heard that belltech has a shackle out now which should drop me another inch,. Beyond that we're getting into axle or hangar flips, but I doubt I'll go that far. Well maybe doing a spring under Explorer axle and raising the rear back up to compensate. dunno: we'll see)

The front is where it gets a little trickier. Nobody on the Ranger forums tries to lower a 4x4 and talks about it. I know it can be done. I've seen pictures of it done to AWD Explorers here. I've seen pictures on a Ranger that is kind of my inspiration. Was done by a someone that may be, or have been, a member here (95offroadX). SLA 4x4 dropped on 275/60R17 & 285/60R17 and IIRC he talked about the possibility of going lower, but I think he ended up selling and/or going back to lifted.

I know that I can uncrank the torsion bar adjusters to get some drop, but will I be able to get enough from just uncranking them? If I go so far as to compeltely removed the bolts will the suspension still stay together? Are there lowering torsion keys or other components needed to go lower? I know that they existed for lifting and that later models supposedly has less ride height from factory due to different keys.

Also, roughly speaking how low can one go before running into issues with CV axles and/or suspension and alignment? IIRC you can only lift so much before the stock axle shafts become an issue, so I would imagine that the same issue would be true for lowering. I don't remember how much lift it was, and I might never get low enough for it to matter. Alignment and suspension binding is always an issue with lifting or lowering, but companies make parts for correctiung that with a 4x4 lift. Not sure if the same stuff exist for a lowering one.

My 99 came withe the PVH system and currently has AVM or Rugged Ridge manual locking hubs installed. I want to covert to live axles like the Explorers and later Rangers. Might swap out knuckles for larger brakes at the same time. In the live axle components (differential, hubs, bearings, etc) is there any difference between the components used in a 4wd and AWD, Explorer or Ranger? Ranger parts might be easier to find used, but a 5.0L AWD swap might be somewhere in my future. EDIT: The conversion to live axles is for wheel selection and to get rid of failure prone hubs, not for a future AWD swap.

on these folks usually lower about an inch maybe 1.5" iirc you can flip the keys or they make lowering keys iirc. you could probably let the bolt most of the way out but not sure, only have experience in lifting. in the live wxle modles there is no difference between v6 and v8 as long as both are 4/awd at least in the wxplorers. bo experience with the rangers. at least the diffs are the same not sure about driveshafts from an X fitting a ranger

 

[97Sandbox]

I can't claim to have lowered a 4WD/AWD, but I have lowered my RWD and read a LOT about lowered Explorers.

For lowering the front, backing out torsion adjusters is a start, but on some vehicles it does little to drop the ride height. I believe you can re-index the torsion bars and/or install lowering keys, but from what I understand, the ride quality will suffer. This is why I went the coilover conversion route to get my 2 1/4" drop in front. You'll have an added obstacle of clearing the front axle, so shock selection and mounting orientation will be critical.

If you do choose to go the coilover route, you'll just about have to take the whole front end apart so that'd be a good time to upgrade to '01-'03 Sport/'01-'05 SportTrac knuckles which will allow you to run larger rotors.

There is little-to-no aftermarket support for lowering 2nd gen Explorers, so you have to get creative. Mixing and matching and modifying parts for other applications will almost certainly be required but the end result is you have a unique vehicle. Let me know if I can help with any pictures, measurements, etc. Hopefully some lowered 4WD/AWD folks will chime in regarding CV angles.

 

[Mbrooks420]

You use going to end up in the 2” lower than stock range if you don’t want to stress the CV’s. Plus, the ride is terrible as you are riding at the bottom of your stroke. Any bumps will be slamming your bump
stops.

 

[JoshT]

What's a bumpstop? Sounds pretty rough to me. (<< sarcasm)

I can't claim to have lowered a 4WD/AWD, but I have lowered my RWD and read a LOT about lowered Explorers.

For lowering the front, backing out torsion adjusters is a start, but on some vehicles it does little to drop the ride height. I believe you can re-index the torsion bars and/or install lowering keys, but from what I understand, the ride quality will suffer. This is why I went the coilover conversion route to get my 2 1/4" drop in front. You'll have an added obstacle of clearing the front axle, so shock selection and mounting orientation will be critical.

If you do choose to go the coilover route, you'll just about have to take the whole front end apart so that'd be a good time to upgrade to '01-'03 Sport/'01-'05 SportTrac knuckles which will allow you to run larger rotors.

There is little-to-no aftermarket support for lowering 2nd gen Explorers, so you have to get creative. Mixing and matching and modifying parts for other applications will almost certainly be required but the end result is you have a unique vehicle. Let me know if I can help with any pictures, measurements, etc. Hopefully some lowered 4WD/AWD folks will chime in regarding CV angles.

Never lowered one period, but I have come pretty close to lowering a RWD I-beam truck. So close I've got all the parts, but totaled the truck. Bought another truck, but project fell apart. Bought another truck again, but it's in a lot worse shape that I originally thought and has been stored for future.

The idea of a lowered AWD Ranger has been bouncing around in my head for a long time, as such I've done a lot of reading about lowering Explorers. Unfortunately most of that reading was done many years ago and until recently I didn't actually think it was going to happen, so I didn't stay up on it and have forgotten a lot. I know I've found a lot of what I've read here on Explorer Forum, but my googlefu seems to be failing me these days.

Up to a point I expect ride to improve, due to the preload the torsion bars currently have for mild lift. Beyond stock I expect to see some improvement before taking a turn to go the other way. Keys are one of those things I'm not too sure about, namely I'm not sure if it's worth changing them at all. Mine is a '99. IIRC '08+ Rangers came with different keys and lower ride height, because my keys are considered a lift upgrade for them. The goal is to end up on coilovers, but thats a ways out.

I don't think the Explorer or Sport Tra suspension bits will fit the Ranger from what I recall reading. Same design, but incompatible differences. In later years ('04+ ?) the Ranger came with larger 12" rotors. Front end will be coming apart anyway for a gear change and conversion to live axle. I intend to swap to the later knuckles and brakes at that time.

You use going to end up in the 2” lower than stock range if you don’t want to stress the CV’s. Plus, the ride is terrible as you are riding at the bottom of your stroke. Any bumps will be slamming your bump
stops.

2" from what though. Stock Ranger height? Stock Explorer height? Were they the same? If the same what was that height, I don't have any stock measurements to compare to. If stock Ranger height, which stock Ranger? 4WD Rangers came in different heights depending on the year built, IIRC '08+ Rangers were a couple inches lower than previous years.

All that is why I'm more interested in what it took to get low, than in how low you got. The end results might be slightly different, but the recepie is nearly the same.

Again what are bumpstops? They sound painful.

^^ again sarcasm, I know what they are and already planning to address.

 

[Mbrooks420]

2 inch lowered from stock. They all sit different from the factory.

 

[97Sandbox]

I don't think the Explorer or Sport Tra suspension bits will fit the Ranger from what I recall reading. Same design, but incompatible differences. In later years ('04+ ?) the Ranger came with larger 12" rotors. Front end will be coming apart anyway for a gear change and conversion to live axle. I intend to swap to the later knuckles and brakes at that time.

From what I've researched, the lower and upper control arms are the same on '98+ 4WD Rangers and all '95-'00 Explorers -- not sure why the knuckles wouldn't be compatible unless it has to do with the tie rod mounting. But yeah, whatever it takes to upgrade the brakes will be worth it.

All that is why I'm more interested in what it took to get low, than in how low you got. The end results might be slightly different, but the recepie is nearly the same.

I have to partially disagree with you here because the lower you go, the more you have to modify. If you only want a minimal drop, say 1" - 1 1/2" from stock Explorer height, a torsion twist will usually get the job done.

If you want to go down further to the 2" - 2 1/2" range, you'll 100% need to install the widest available range camber adjusters to get alignment in-spec. A torsion twist at its max (or min is probably a better description) might get you this low, but for some it hasn't. Coilover conversion removes the torsion bar as the limiting factor. This drop will also get you to what most consider the reasonable limit of upper ball joint angle if you're using stock knuckles and control arms.

Unless you're building an unstreetable slammed mini truck for car shows, a 3"+ drop will require serious fab work to address steering and control arm angles. The best way I've seen this accomplished is with shorter SN95 Mustang spindles, tie rod ends mounted from the bottom, and full custom upper control arms (I should add that I've only seen this on a RWD truck). It works, but it's a big commitment.

Maybe that's too much of an info dump, if so my bad. TLDR: start with a ride height goal in mind, then map out the appropriate path with necessary parts and customizations.

 

[JoshT]

Looks like I may have been mistaken on the knuckles. It might be the next generation of Explorer that I'm thinking about as not working. Looks like the Sport and Sport Track knuckles you were talking about are probably the same as the Ranger knuckles I was talking about. Yes, bumping it up to 12" is definitely in the plans. Not top of the list, but on the list.

There's a contradiction there in my eyes, it's the root of the problem I have with what you're saying. On one hand someone said that no two Explorers sit the same from the factory and each one respond differently to the same mods. On the other you say that you need to plan ahead and build for a height goal. Throw in the fact that I'm not actually working on an Explorer (similar but not an Explorer), that it may have come from the factory with a different ride height, and that it's definitely not at factory ride height now. Since I don't know what my ride height was to begin with, and I don't know how it's going to respond to modifications, how am I supposed to decide on a final ride height and plan to get there. Best I can do is know what's possible and stop when I'm happy.

I'm not looking for doing this will put it at X height. I'm looking or this is what can be done to get it lower. By telling me what you have, you;ve already done much of that. I know that I can uncrank/remove the torsion bolts to lower some. If that's not enough I can flip the keys and lower it some more. I'm still curious as to whether the '08+ Ranger keys would make a difference, as it came lower from the factory and had different keys. I'll probably need camber adjusters to alight, which I've already got due to previous cranked t-bar status. If I want lower and the CVs aren't an issue, time to go coilover.

One of the things I was wondering about is control arms and balljoint angles, because I'm pretty certain I've seen where someone ran aftermarket UCAs with special joints to get lower without binding. I just vaugely remember the control arms being a 2wd lowering component, an "M" something logo on the arms, and that the company had to set it up with special joints or adapters to connect to the 4wd/awd knuckles. It was parts that they had on hand, just not a combination that they normally put together. Might have been something normally used for bagged Explorers?

After doing more research I was reminded of something that might help narrow down what I'm after with this truck. I don't want to say tribute or clone as I could care less about doing that, so lets say I want to build a truck inspired by the Saleen XP6/8. Or if you installed the old Explorer Express suspension kit on a Ranger. Not slammed, but lowered vs what it would have left the factory. The XP6/8 or an Explorer with the EE kit are about the stance I'm looking for.

Kind of like how @Turdle's Mountaineer looked here: "TURDLE" or " How to mess up a perfectly good truck"

275/60R17 is a 30" tire. That's conveniently the diameter I now have on the truck, though I currently have ATs on 16s. I was planning to stay somewhere around that or a 29 like it appears the XP8s came with (255/55R18). Figured I'd step up to a 17" wheel and a street tire once the current tires wear out. If the 30" tire is as low as it'll go with the CV axles that's where I'll stop, if I can get it down a little more I'll go with the 29" tire.

While I'm wishing for parts no longer made, I might as well add EE sway bars and XP8 Recaros to that list as well. Will definitely need a sway bar upgrade before its over, and its needed better seats since I bought the truck 17 years ago. I didn't realize just how bad the seats were until I started driving bigger trucks, the F-250 seats are much more comfortable. Might not be able to fit 250 seats in the ranger, but surely I can get something better than stock. Those XP8 Recaros look nice, but no longer produced and I'd imagine expensive when they were. I've got a set of '00 Taurus seats available, but I'm not too sure about them. Maybe some early '00s Mustang seats if I can find them in decent shape and price?

 

[97Sandbox]

There's a contradiction there in my eyes, it's the root of the problem I have with what you're saying. On one hand someone said that no two Explorers sit the same from the factory and each one respond differently to the same mods. On the other you say that you need to plan ahead and build for a height goal. Throw in the fact that I'm not actually working on an Explorer (similar but not an Explorer), that it may have come from the factory with a different ride height, and that it's definitely not at factory ride height now. Since I don't know what my ride height was to begin with, and I don't know how it's going to respond to modifications, how am I supposed to decide on a final ride height and plan to get there. Best I can do is know what's possible and stop when I'm happy.

I'm not looking for doing this will put it at X height. I'm looking or this is what can be done to get it lower. By telling me what you have, you;ve already done much of that. I know that I can uncrank/remove the torsion bolts to lower some. If that's not enough I can flip the keys and lower it some more. I'm still curious as to whether the '08+ Ranger keys would make a difference, as it came lower from the factory and had different keys. I'll probably need camber adjusters to alight, which I've already got due to previous cranked t-bar status. If I want lower and the CVs aren't an issue, time to go coilover.

I hear you and agree the general Explorer rules of thumb may not be directly applicable to you. A TT is free so you may as well start there. My main point is that it may be worthwhile to commit to coilovers to gain the adjustability rather than spending time and money on drop keys. If 08+ keys get the job done, I bet a salvage yard set would be a good inexpensive solution. Never hurts to give a try and tell us what you learn!

@CDW6212R made a good point a while back that the best way to define ride height consistently on these vehicles is measuring to the subframe LCA bolts. I recall his Mounty measured ~8 1/2" and my Sport is sitting just shy of 8". Measuring yours now will give you a good starting point (also recommend marking it down so you can track ride height changes as you go).

One of the things I was wondering about is control arms and balljoint angles, because I'm pretty certain I've seen where someone ran aftermarket UCAs with special joints to get lower without binding. I just vaugely remember the control arms being a 2wd lowering component, an "M" something logo on the arms, and that the company had to set it up with special joints or adapters to connect to the 4wd/awd knuckles. It was parts that they had on hand, just not a combination that they normally put together. Might have been something normally used for bagged Explorers?

You may be talking about DJM control arms, but IIRC those are only made for 2WD coil spring Rangers. If there's a way to adapt for 4WD that'd be awesome though!

After doing more research I was reminded of something that might help narrow down what I'm after with this truck. I don't want to say tribute or clone as I could care less about doing that, so lets say I want to build a truck inspired by the Saleen XP6/8. Or if you installed the old Explorer Express suspension kit on a Ranger. Not slammed, but lowered vs what it would have left the factory. The XP6/8 or an Explorer with the EE kit are about the stance I'm looking for.

Kind of like how @Turdle's Mountaineer looked here: "TURDLE" or " How to mess up a perfectly good truck"

275/60R17 is a 30" tire. That's conveniently the diameter I now have on the truck, though I currently have ATs on 16s. I was planning to stay somewhere around that or a 29 like it appears the XP8s came with (255/55R18). Figured I'd step up to a 17" wheel and a street tire once the current tires wear out. If the 30" tire is as low as it'll go with the CV axles that's where I'll stop, if I can get it down a little more I'll go with the 29" tire.

While I'm wishing for parts no longer made, I might as well add EE sway bars and XP8 Recaros to that list as well. Will definitely need a sway bar upgrade before its over, and its needed better seats since I bought the truck 17 years ago. I didn't realize just how bad the seats were until I started driving bigger trucks, the F-250 seats are much more comfortable. Might not be able to fit 250 seats in the ranger, but surely I can get something better than stock. Those XP8 Recaros look nice, but no longer produced and I'd imagine expensive when they were. I've got a set of '00 Taurus seats available, but I'm not too sure about them. Maybe some early '00s Mustang seats if I can find them in decent shape and price?

Sounds like you and I are coming from a similar perspective; I've taken a lot of my inspiration from the Saleen Explorers too. I believe the Saleen Explorers and X-Spec kits all ended up around 2" lowered from stock Explorer height. I decided to go with 17" Saleen replica wheels because I wanted wider than 255 tires (running 275/55R17 now) and I'm happy with the look.

The Saleen Recaros are awesome! If you find a good way to retrofit any OEM seats with better bolstering, let us know. I upgraded to the leather Explorer front seats which have better bolstering but still leave a lot to be desired.

As for swaybars, I too wish I'd bought a pair from EE back in the day, but I was on a high schooler budget then and by the time I got a big boy job EE was gone. I bought the Addco bars last year which aren't as nice as the EE bars but still a good upgrade. Took like 6 months for them to be made and shipped though.

 

[JoshT]

I hear you and agree the general Explorer rules of thumb may not be directly applicable to you. A TT is free so you may as well start there. My main point is that it may be worthwhile to commit to coilovers to gain the adjustability rather than spending time and money on drop keys. If 08+ keys get the job done, I bet a salvage yard set would be a good inexpensive solution. Never hurts to give a try and tell us what you learn!

I hear you, but the way I see it, TT doesn't cost anything so it won't hurt to start there. Even if I do end up trying '08 keys it should be relatively inexpensive.

I probably am comitting to coilovers regardless if for nothing other than better ride quality, but I'm not ready to go there yet. In addition coil over brackets aren't currently available for the torsion bar suspension that I've been able to find, though I understand a company should have them out in the not too distant future. I could make my own, but I'd rather buy premade setup for ease and convenience.

@CDW6212R made a good point a while back that the best way to define ride height consistently on these vehicles is measuring to the subframe LCA bolts. I recall his Mounty measured ~8 1/2" and my Sport is sitting just shy of 8". Measuring yours now will give you a good starting point (also recommend marking it down so you can track ride height changes as you go).

On these I usually measure suspension adjustments from axle centerline to wheel arch. That removes any differences caused by tires, whether it be different sizes, manufacturer variations, or pressure differences. Of course it's not quite the same as ride heaight measurement, but I feel that it gives a more accurate picture of changes in suspension. Unless you are comparing measurements to another vehicle, it doesn't really matter where you measure as long as its the same point before and after.

You may be talking about DJM control arms, but IIRC those are only made for 2WD coil spring Rangers. If there's a way to adapt for 4WD that'd be awesome though!

Definitely not talking about DJM control arms, those I would remember. After searching for a while I finally came across the control arms I Was remembering. They are flat plate control arms from Michigan Metal Works. They are advertised as a replacement for the DJM upper control arms. They don't list them for the torsion bar trucks, but I remember seeing where they were used on one. IIRC the person that used them ordered them with the correct adapter for the Torsion bar spindle. That was a long time ago, and the information probably disappeared with RPS.

Sounds like you and I are coming from a similar perspective; I've taken a lot of my inspiration from the Saleen Explorers too. I believe the Saleen Explorers and X-Spec kits all ended up around 2" lowered from stock Explorer height. I decided to go with 17" Saleen replica wheels because I wanted wider than 255 tires (running 275/55R17 now) and I'm happy with the look.
View attachment 436853

The Saleen Recaros are awesome! If you find a good way to retrofit any OEM seats with better bolstering, let us know. I upgraded to the leather Explorer front seats which have better bolstering but still leave a lot to be desired.

Don't know if these pictures will work since they are hosted on Photobucket (not my account), but this is my actual inspiration. It was 200? 4x4 owned by a member of various Ranger forums, the usernames I had noted were 95offroadX and Hossler. Some time after this he ended up going up with the truck and eventually passing it on to a new owner IIRC. I've got noted that the wheel tire comgo is 275/60R17 on 17x9 front, and 285/60R17 on 17x10 rear. That's about a 30" tire front and rear. I love the staggered and deep rear look, but I intend to go square (same size front and rear) instead of staggered to retain rotatability.

I have had this idea bouncing around in my head for a long time and these pictures saved away almost as long. I just never did anything with the information because my idea was to build a lowered 83-88 2wd V8 street truck. My first vehicle was a 84 and that's where my love for Rangers really lies. Unfortunately I totaled that truck and both of the two I've tried to build since have been a bust. I may still build that second squarebody ranger someday, but it'll take extensive rust repairs that I'm not prepared to undertake at this time. I've come to realize that these newer Rangers are more comfortable, more roomy, and better parts availability. It'll also be a better fit for a V8 swap (I think the first gen will go turbo 4 if it ever happens), it'll be fun and more comfortable for trips once I get the seating figured out, and if I do the AWD thing it'll be pretty unique in this area.

Lowering the Explorers seems more common than the 4x4 Rangers. Heck since RPS went away lowering anything seems to be more common here than the other ranger sites, it happens on all of them, but not talked about near as much and the idea of lowering a 4x4/AWD seems shunned. That's why I come here to ask. I'd seen various photos of the lowered Explorers and the XP8 over the years and that's just a real easy way to describe what I'm after.

The Saleen Recaros are awesome! If you find a good way to retrofit any OEM seats with better bolstering, let us know. I upgraded to the leather Explorer front seats which have better bolstering but still leave a lot to be desired.

But are they $1500 awesome? They aren't Saleen branded, but I might have a line on the same Recaros the XP8 had. The appear to be nearly new and suppsoedly still have the original boxes they came in. These are power seats where the ones in the XP8 might have been manual. I'm unsure how the mounted in the Explorer, that's not what they are setup for now. Did they use adapters and mount to the Ford seat brackets/rails, or was there a special set developed for use with the Explorer and Recaros?

They are $1500 + $200 gas bill, about a 12 hour round trip, and probably a room for the night. I'd be looking at almost $2000 in them and still have to buy what ever is needed to adapt them into the truck.

I was looking for almost anything more comfortable. Kind of leaning towards Mustang, but I don't know if I've ever actually ridden in one. Get to looking and it's going to cost almost $500 for a decent (sound but need repairs) set of Mustang seats, then almost as much for reupholstering. I'll might bide my time and inquire if the Recaros are still available after the new year, if not start hunting for something else.

As for swaybars, I too wish I'd bought a pair from EE back in the day, but I was on a high schooler budget then and by the time I got a big boy job EE was gone. I bought the Addco bars last year which aren't as nice as the EE bars but still a good upgrade. Took like 6 months for them to be made and shipped though.

I think I'm covered on the rear bar. I kind of ended up with two of the 1" Bronco II sway bars unintentionally. I had one on the 84 Ranger I totaled, installed shortly before totaling it actually. I pulled it, along with the aftermaarket addco I had on front, and stored it for a future build. Well I didn't know it when I bought it, but the second first gen I bought to build also had one installed. I was shocked when I found it under the truck because it shouldn't have been a thing, those sway bars didn't come on Rangers and were a well kept secret in the modding community for a long time. Anyway, I've got a spare big bar I can install in the rear, I've just got to find a good one for the front.

As the truck sits right now I've got 3-4" of fender clearance over the front tires and about 6" over the rear tires. Even without upgraded anti-sway bars, just swapping from Explorer springs back to Ranger springs and removing the lift shackles, and a TT will make a huge difference.Just waiting for hunting season to be over to start working. I could knock it out in a day or two, but then I'd have to arrange for an alignment. If I wait for january, it won't be an issue if I have to wait a few days.

 

[97Sandbox]

I probably am comitting to coilovers regardless if for nothing other than better ride quality, but I'm not ready to go there yet. In addition coil over brackets aren't currently available for the torsion bar suspension that I've been able to find, though I understand a company should have them out in the not too distant future. I could make my own, but I'd rather buy premade setup for ease and convenience.

There are a number of folks on here and on Ranger-Forums who make and sell kits -- whenever you're ready, just start asking around. I got mine from a guy on Ranger-Forums who no longer makes them, but I've since seen @RockRanger makes kits too and his support brackets look cleaner and come pre-notched so there's no extra machining work needed.

 

[JoshT]

Does he, or any of the other makers, have a thread selling them? I know Rick's Rangers is soon to come out with a kit for the torsion bar trucks, so I was waiting for them to go on the site.

In addition to waiting to spread out the price, I would like to get the stance about where I want it so I can properly make measurements and order the right coilovers the first time.

 

[RockRanger]

Does he, or any of the other makers, have a thread selling them? I know Rick's Rangers is soon to come out with a kit for the torsion bar trucks, so I was waiting for them to go on the site.

In addition to waiting to spread out the price, I would like to get the stance about where I want it so I can properly make measurements and order the right coilovers the first time.

COILOVER CONVERSION BRACKETS | home

www.northpeak4x4.com

You can message me here or contact me thru the website. I sell them as a you weld together kit.