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M90 rebuild (rudy)

well figured i would start a new thread.just a quick background.did the whole build on my explorer but built it using stock head gaskets and head bolts.did it really as a safety net and i just couldnt afford head studs at the time.well to say the least i blew the head gaskets off from it wile i was in the mountains on a forum trip about two years later.

i picked up a 1994 ranger,its got the 4.0 OHV and is a 5 speed 2wd.the plan is to pull the motor out of the explorer and rebuild it.

this thread will basically cover the rebuild and build up of the new ranger.it will basically end up as a street race truck.ive named it Rudy:D:D so let the fun begin.
:burnout::burnout::burnout::burnout::burnout::burnout::burnout::burnout::burnout::burnout::burnout:

UPDATE
new motor specs
BORE: 4" JE asymmetrical pistons (custom over bore)

20141031_163839_zpso5ifzafx.jpg

RODS: 6.058 Manley (longer rod)
20140226_134243_zpsdapxouhk.jpg

VALVES: IN-1.8 EX-1.5 Manley heavy duty (.150 over)
20160527_114556_zpsiohyyelp.jpg

20140515_162402_zpsftg0qlcd.jpg

20160313_161946_zpswgleqayt.jpg

20160318_160734_zpsxxxpuld8.jpg

Transmission:T5 hybrid from a 2006 Mustang and 93 Fox
HEADS: 93TM HEAVILY ported with custom brass guides and copper gaskets/O-ringed with ARP studs
CAM: 422 Comp cams with 988 springs and Toms custom lifters,push rods and 1.7 roller rockers
Complete blueprint and balanced internals
GM M90 supercharged with one 1" intercooler plates with ASP 8 rib belt conversion. .
pushing 16 lbs of boost with small shot of NOS
Running on E50
Dyno tuned by Dyno Tune Performance outa Virginia using SCT

old thread and pic
3800 M90 Build
ported and polished gm 3800 gen 2 m90
Water to air intercooled
port matched 76mm inlet and intake tube
mustang 75mm race tb
90mm maf
36lb injectors
255 fuel pump
sct 5bank dyno tuned
2.7" pulley 10lbs of boost!!;)
2012-06-09201057.jpg


2012-06-09201139-1.jpg


2012-06-09201207.jpg



and the new 1994 ranger 4.0 OHV 5 speed 2WD with 115,000 miles on it.o and i only paid $1,000 for it:shifty_ey
RUDY
IMG952013032295172932_zps77585c66.jpg


FB_IMG_1545061235211.jpg
 


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CDW6212R

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Excellent, I love big wires, nice and neat too.
 


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4pointslow

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I wonder how solder will hold up in the fuel tank, and with ethanol.(or was the solder on the outside connector?)
Never really looked at factory sending units that closely to see if any were soldered from the factory.
If it holds up JD will have proved it works.
Keep up the good work, it looks awesome!
Driving this truck has to be a blast!
 




jd4242

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I wonder how solder will hold up in the fuel tank, and with ethanol.(or was the solder on the outside connector?)
Never really looked at factory sending units that closely to see if any were soldered from the factory.
If it holds up JD will have proved it works.
Keep up the good work, it looks awesome!
Driving this truck has to be a blast!
There is solder in there already..they come crimped and soldered. .also the fuel level sender has wires soldered onto it..they've held up fine so far
 




jd4242

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Also the 75 amp relay i hooked it to has my intercooler heat exchanger fan running off from it as well as my IC pump and my inside gauges. .that relay is ran off a 50 self reseting breaker..

Well its too much running off from it and trips the breaker after a couple minutes of running..ive had to order another relay which will run just the fan and ic pump off the remote fuse block i have where the battery under hood use to be..this is also how my main fan is ran..

Im going to leave my gauges and pump on the relay with the self resetting breaker..that way if it trips i will see my gauges go out and it will reset..

I will say this thing MOVES some fuel. .you can literally hear it flowing through the lines..also my idle pressure increased about 15psi so i had to adjust the pressure regulator down some.im going to talk to the tuner and see why he wants base pressure around 60psi,personally id like to turn it down to around 43..i think it he suggests that because of injectors but idk..

Im running e60 now not e50 also,gave me just a little more octane to get me above 100ish,haven't taken it for a test drive yet but definitely can tell this pump is no joke compared to my wally's or the tre300+ ive been running ..it sounds like a fire hose is spraying under the truck..lol
 




CDW6212R

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...

Im going to leave my gauges and pump on the relay with the self resetting breaker..that way if it trips i will see my gauges go out and it will reset..
...

That sounds very good. That's smart to have the pump and gauges tied together. You're using the same trigger signal to trigger the relay for the IC pump etc, that's good to keep the long trigger wires low current, and the power wires shorter.

What alternator do you have? I'm presuming it's a 3G, which have great support from the aftermarket. The later 4G models seem to run lower at idle in the high current models. I hope I don't go beyond that idle current limit and see low voltages at idle.
 




jd4242

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That sounds very good. That's smart to have the pump and gauges tied together. You're using the same trigger signal to trigger the relay for the IC pump etc, that's good to keep the long trigger wires low current, and the power wires shorter.

What alternator do you have? I'm presuming it's a 3G, which have great support from the aftermarket. The later 4G models seem to run lower at idle in the high current models. I hope I don't go beyond that idle current limit and see low voltages at idle.
Unfortunately im using a key on power source to run that relay..this pump does not have a check valve and i didnt get one so the pumps runs constantly with key on..

If i replace my feed line im going to add a check valve and run the pump off its own relay from the ecu so can have some of the safety features like it shutting off in a accident. .

I have a custom built 210amp alternator,had it built and tested in front of me locally
 




CDW6212R

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You should be able to run that big relay with the normal pump relay trigger wire. That's what I thought you had done already. If you want the IC pump and fan etc to run with the ignition key(not shut off after a second or so), then the ignition signal is good for that relay circuit.

If you have enough odd added circuits, you might want to clean it up by adding a PDB from a common Ford, like the 94-04 Mustangs etc. I added one of those to my 95 Crown Vic, to hold the many fuses and relays I needed for my work use. I had to modify it to hold some different things, like a flasher, but you could likely leave it as it comes, and it's neater with a cover etc.

95CVPowerDbox02.JPG


95CVPowerDbox01.JPG
 




jd4242

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You should be able to run that big relay with the normal pump relay trigger wire. That's what I thought you had done already. If you want the IC pump and fan etc to run with the ignition key(not shut off after a second or so), then the ignition signal is good for that relay circuit.

If you have enough odd added circuits, you might want to clean it up by adding a PDB from a common Ford, like the 94-04 Mustangs etc. I added one of those to my 95 Crown Vic, to hold the many fuses and relays I needed for my work use. I had to modify it to hold some different things, like a flasher, but you could likely leave it as it comes, and it's neater with a cover etc.

View attachment 154273

View attachment 154274
Without a check valve i cant run it off that wire..it only primes the system for a brief second till the truck starts and is running. .without a check valve i would lose pressure as soon as the pump kicked off..

Also ive added a shitched key on power fuse panel inside that runs all my gauges.. i have a fuse block where old battery was under the hood that runs all my relays and runs from the battery thats inside the truck
 




jd4242

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Battery is behind seat

20180122_210413.jpg

Switched power fuse block is behind glove box

20180122_210322.jpg


And this runs from the battery with fuses and displays voltage

20180122_210253.jpg
 




CDW6212R

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Gotcha, that's great. It didn't hit me that you meant the check valve is needed to keep the pressure up at the startup. I like that wiring, it's much better than most people end up with. Adding things one at a time as individual circuits with single fuses or power point connections, ends up messy and haphazard etc. You planned it ahead, props for that.
 




jd4242

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So figured out how to wire everything. .i ordered some little timers..these will delay or extend the power for the trigger wire on the relays....here is the link
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00PD65UGA/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They can keep power on for set amount of time after power is cut off or can delay the power coming on...

I have 3-75amp relays now and 2 self resetting breakers.

First relay is ran straight off the block with a 75 amp fuse to the 75 amp relay..this runs my main fan...it will get a timer with a delay of 5sec after power on...this keeps the fan OFF for 5 seconds if i shut the truck off with fan running and try to restart right away..right now the fan runs when you try to restart and draws a ton of amps plus the starter making it hard to start..

The 2nd 75amp relay is ran off a 70amp self resetting breaker...this runs my ic pump,my ic fan and the 50 amp key on fuse panel behind the glove box..this also will have a timer of 5sec delay..dont want all that running when try to restart..

Finally the last 75 amp relay run off a 50 amp self resetting breaker is strictly for my fuel pump..this has a timer with a 5sec ""continue after power off run"" timer ran off the OE fuel pump relay wire....this will alow the pump to run 5seconds after the power is shut off giving me about 8 seconds to start the truck before it kicks off((the oe ecm primes for about 3 seconds plus the 5 seconds from timer once power kicks off=8secomds but only 5 if in a accident))...once started it will function with all the stock safety systems but with a 5 second extra run..so if in a accident it will shut off just 5 seconds afterwards...**this will let me not run a check valve which can restrict the flow in the line....**

Here are the relays i use and the 70amp breaker..
OEM COOPER BUSSMAN CIRCUIT BREAKER 0-30VDC 70 AMP AUTOMATIC TYPE 1 CB181F70 | eBay

BOSCH TYCO TE AUTO RELAY 75 A AMP 12 V volt DC QUALITY HEAVY DUTY HIGH CURRENT | eBay
 




jd4242

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O also i dont want to jump the gun because the roads were wet today and all 3 pulls i did i broke lose in 4th when i hit 12psi but it never went lean..also still have belt alignment issues, the belt i do have on only has 5 ribs left...lol
 




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So before i could get around to rewiring everything i started having miss fires and really lean conditions when at idle..cruise seems to run fine A/F and when it first starts runs good A/F..

Found my crank sensor was busted so replaced that,didn't fix lean issues but now not miss firing now. .

So unplugged my O2s and no change or no CEL so i replaced both of those...didnt fix it..checked my tps and iac..both are working..

Have perfect fuel pressure and no exhaust or intake leaks that i can find..motor is not missing or shaking at all..when you first start it,it run good AF for about 30 sec then goes lean and the idle jumps to 1500 and stays lean
 




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jd4242

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Well im really at a loss with this. ..something is telling the ecm to raise the idle probably because its lean...it starts,runs for about 30 seconds, then idle jumps to 1500 and stays there for about a minute or two then falls back down to under 1k and starts to stall out...

I've checked every dang sensor and definitely no exhaust leaks and no vacuum leaks that ive found..checked all hose and sprayed all over with starter fluid. .lol

Its running good just like its lean..doesnt seem to be missing or shaking..so honestly dont think its a injector or valve sticking but guess next move is a compression and leak down..of those pass its gota be the dang ecm and i sent back the one i bought as a spare. .

Fully open to suggestions or ideas
 




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No clue. tps issue of some kind again? It hurts to read this.
 




jd4242

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No clue. tps issue of some kind again? It hurts to read this.
It hurts me more...tps reads good dead set to .95 and climbs as it should with throttle opening. .
 




jd4242

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What i dont get is why it doesnt go into open loop when i unplug the O2s..last time when i unplugged the o2 it threw a cel and the af got better..its not even throwing a cel when i unplug them..it does when i unplug the maf but af doesnt get any better
 




2000StreetRod

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When I rewired my engine harness for the M90 I failed to wire the common ground for three injectors on bank 2. The engine started fine and revved good but had less power under load than a moped with two riders. The PCM did not set any DTCs. I determined that the PCM compares the two pre-cat O2 sensors. If one is determined to be unreliable it uses the good one to control the AFR for both banks.

In my opinion your symptoms indicate a lean condition when the PCM transitions from open loop at engine start to closed loop after the O2 sensors have warmed up. However, if an O2 sensor is disconnected the PCM should set an O2 sensor heater fault. Are you sure the PCM is going into closed loop? Maybe closed loop is disabled in your tune. When I tuned my Sport with the M90 I disabled closed loop until I got the AFRs close to where they should be. Have you datalogged the open/closed loop PID? Does your AFR meter only measure one bank? Have you datalogged the fuel trims on both banks?
 


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jd4242

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When I rewired my engine harness for the M90 I failed to wire the common ground for three injectors on bank 2. The engine started fine and revved good but had less power under load than a moped with two riders. The PCM did not set any DTCs. I determined that the PCM compares the two pre-cat O2 sensors. If one is determined to be unreliable it uses the good one to control the AFR for both banks.

In my opinion your symptoms indicate a lean condition when the PCM transitions from open loop at engine start to closed loop after the O2 sensors have warmed up. However, if an O2 sensor is disconnected the PCM should set an O2 sensor heater fault. Are you sure the PCM is going into closed loop? Maybe closed loop is disabled in your tune. When I tuned my Sport with the M90 I disabled closed loop until I got the AFRs close to where they should be. Have you datalogged the open/closed loop PID? Does your AFR meter only measure one bank? Have you datalogged the fuel trims on both banks?
Datalog...lol whats that???

Yes open and closed are both still in my tune..it ran just fine for 5 days after i swapped the pump,then Friday started acting up..wile i was waiting on my crank sensors and O2s to come in,i rewired my relays...

Fuel pump is still direct wired to key on relay but my fans,ic pump and stuff i rewired with a timer..it all works fine..

Fixing the crank sensor seemed to fix the missjng/back firing but it still lean..o2s seemed to do nothing and if i unplug one or both they dont throw a CEL or start running better which last time they did..thats the reason i replaced them,now i haven't tried to unplug the new ones to see if it runs better or throws a code..ill try that tonight but seems like they are not communicating with the ECM but id assume a cel whould kick on..

Unplugging the MAF does throw a CEL but doesn't run better

I have no cel at all even when idle comes back down after the 3 mins or so and begins to stall out..
 




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