Massive Oil Leak | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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I had thought about adding RTV to it as a last ditch effort, honestly.

I have indeed confirmed it is coming from the tensioner, it soaks the whole exterior of the mating surface instantly when I fire it over. I always spray it with brake clean and hit it with some compressed air to watch it.

One of the videos I have watched states to install the crush washer a certain way. With the LIP facing HEAD. But, I dont see a lip. It is bevelled one direction, as you can see in the pictures below. Does it matter which way I install the washer?
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You need to put grease on that washer to hold it in place on its seating surface on the tensioner before screwing the tensioner in (or you get the massive oil leak). IDK where you can find a new washer like that. Maybe at Ford... ?

I'm not aware of needing to install the washer a special way, but if you bend/warp it it will leak and be ruined. RTV will not help.
 






I thought I recalled one of my old washers looking like a folded over piece of metal, but that is likely an updated simply soft metal gasket, to crush. The seal there should not be complicated, besides making sure the gasket is centered. I think the washer/gasket should have been made to not slide around, one perfect size so it couldn't be put on incorrectly.

If you cannot find anything wrong visibly to either surface, put some RTV where the washer lays. Be sure to clean it with brake cleaner before the RTV coating. Smear a light coating of Ultra Black etc, on just the surfaces where the washer goes. The washer should stay in place well that way. Use just enough RTV that it can fill any imperfections of the mating surfaces. Tighten the tensioner, and try to let it dry for a few hours before it sees any oil.
 






I have RTV on the way from Carquest at the moment. I just visually inspected and took pictures for you all to see the mating surface at the head. In one image you will see some VERY light scratches. I have ran my finger over the ridge 20 times and cannot feel any variance of any kind. I am installing an OEM tensioner and gasket.

Am i correct to torque to 40 ft lbs? I figure its halfway between new and old washer specs, and will compensate for the 2 foot extension and swivel.

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That does look smooth. Be sure the surfaces are clean with brake cleaner(spray a rag and wipe it several times to be sure). If the RTV is not put on too thick, it won't squeeze out and into passages etc. It will only take a very thin layer on the actual mating surfaces, so it'll just take a dab on your finger to smear it on.
 






Here are pictures of the ultra black. I put a skim coat on the head, at the base of the tensioner mating surface, on the underside of the gasket, and lightly filled in the cracks top side of the gasket to keep it in check. I made sure to keep it in its place If it wiggled out. Moving slowly watching the gasket. Here are pictures of it installed as well. I will let it sit for a few hours before buttoning it back up. I have torqued it to 40 lbs.

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Fixed pictures
 






I'm realized surprised that RTV is working for you. There's a lot of oil pressure right there to be holding back by some goop. I hope it continues to work for you.
 






Just a thought - do you think the threads might be leaking by? I have used liquid teflon tape on threads that seemed to have issues like this. I understand there is alot of pressure behind that bolt, but as the liquid teflon tape cures, it gets really tacky, but never hard.
 






Just a thought - do you think the threads might be leaking by? I have used liquid teflon tape on threads that seemed to have issues like this. I understand there is alot of pressure behind that bolt, but as the liquid teflon tape cures, it gets really tacky, but never hard.

Note the large hole in the base of the tensioner in the first pic in post #26. That's where the oil enters the tensioner. Sealing the threads i not the issue.
 












It's an odd issue. I'm assuming the sealing surfaces are not dead perfect, and RTV can handle such a minor gap etc.
 






Forgive my ignorance but I just can't see why the engineers didn't got with a copper gasket ring.

Highly malleable and can conform to most surfaces with imperfections.

A belleville steel washer really? That thing will never compress.

McMaster Carr has different sizes O.D & I.D. by a selection category.
 






McMaster Carr is a wonderful source for tons of hardware and other items. I agree that the OEM washer isn't very impressive. But mainly it's bigger than the diameter of the tensioner, it shouldn't slide around when on fully.
 






Hey everyone!

Just wanted to give a final update. After 10 days, I do not seem to have an oil leak!!! I would highly recommend anybody doing these tensioners to just stay with OEM as well as the washer, and to use a little of the Ultra Black like I was recommended to do. I can't tell if I'm still burning off residual coolant in the valley, its not easy getting a water hose in there. I may have to get back in there are but some Ultra Black around the Thermo Housing. I did install/uninstall it like 12 times. I cannot see any drips or leaks. So I think we are set!

Thanks again to everybody for the help. It was highly appreciated!

- Brandon
 












Hey everyone!

Just wanted to give a final update. After 10 days, I do not seem to have an oil leak!!! I would highly recommend anybody doing these tensioners to just stay with OEM as well as the washer, and to use a little of the Ultra Black like I was recommended to do. I can't tell if I'm still burning off residual coolant in the valley, its not easy getting a water hose in there. I may have to get back in there are but some Ultra Black around the Thermo Housing. I did install/uninstall it like 12 times. I cannot see any drips or leaks. So I think we are set!

Thanks again to everybody for the help. It was highly appreciated!

- Brandon
Great work Brandon. A tiny leak is manageable, but you kept working on yours until it stopped leaking.
 






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