Completed Project Moving-On, No More Kenne Bell Supercharged 5.0

[Blown]

I​

what and where do you have your iat?

I put the IAT sensor where it would go on a 1995 truck/bronco. That is the lower intake I am using. It's in the runner on number five intake. I suppose I could relocate it and drill and tap the blower manifold. It is the stock 95 truck/bronco unit, got a pigtail from the wrecking yard.

I have not seen nor recorded IAT over 185 but it has been cool here, 70 at the warmest.

I am running without a boost gauge and tuning with Kamfr. I need to ge a bunch of stuff done. Like wire the boost gauge and wideband O2. I barely got it running, can datalog but want the wideband for fine tuning and to monitor it.


IT IS AWESOME TO BE BLOWN AGAIN!!!!!

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[vroomzoomboom]

ah, ok. thought you were using a explorer intake and was going to tell you to get one that screwed in, but it looks like you have it covered already.
continue on!

 

[Blown]

See it, it's right there:, ha

 

[Dono]

I tried my iat sensor in my lower intake also....i removed it form that location as I didn't really need it there anyway. There are tables that you can adjust so that at idle/low rpm you can make sure timing isn't pulled.
Congratulations! I can hardly wait to hear more.

 

[Blown]

Poop! She keeps dying at idle. It's like the IAC closes and snuffs her out as the fuel mixture goes way rich with no air. I set the idle to 600 with the IAC disconnected, TPS is at .98 volts, and the fuel mixture looks great till it snuffs out and jump to 10:1 on the wideband and dies......................Very frustrating!

I will check for codes, though no engine light and I think I can datalog the IAC.

 

[donalds]

Poop! She keeps dying at idle. It's like the IAC closes and snuffs her out as the fuel mixture goes way rich with no air. I set the idle to 600 with the IAC disconnected, TPS is at .98 volts, and the fuel mixture looks great till it snuffs out and jump to 10:1 on the wideband and dies......................Very frustrating!

I will check for codes, though no engine light and I think I can datalog the IAC.

There is a way to adjust the iac itself

 

[CDW6212R]

Poop! She keeps dying at idle. It's like the IAC closes and snuffs her out as the fuel mixture goes way rich with no air. I set the idle to 600 with the IAC disconnected, TPS is at .98 volts, and the fuel mixture looks great till it snuffs out and jump to 10:1 on the wideband and dies......................Very frustrating!

I will check for codes, though no engine light and I think I can datalog the IAC.

The idle screw should not ever be adjusted, unless someone has messed with it. If that isn't set to specs, that could be what's needed to let the IAC function right.

 

[Blown]

I had a glitch in the tune, now she's running good. I fat fingered the injector breakpoint, ouch!

She cools at an idle in 95 degree heat!!!! But, I can watch voltage slowly drop with 4 fans on, no headlights. I have a high amp alternator coming...................replaced all the cables after I found resistance in the ground. I should have it by the end of the week.

I have not seen IAT's climb above engine temp, running without a bypass and am seeing 4.5lb of boost.

I got a high pressure A/C hose modded to fit and now need to get the A/C going.


Do ya'll think run a larger volume fuel pump? I think I may need one as I add more boost.

 

[mrjody]

I had a glitch in the tune, now she's running good. I fat fingered the injector breakpoint, ouch!

She cools at an idle in 95 degree heat!!!! But, I can watch voltage slowly drop with 4 fans on, no headlights. I have a high amp alternator coming...................replaced all the cables after I found resistance in the ground. I should have it by the end of the week.

I have not seen IAT's climb above engine temp, running without a bypass and am seeing 4.5lb of boost.

I got a high pressure A/C hose modded to fit and now need to get the A/C going.


Do ya'll think run a larger volume fuel pump? I think I may need one as I add more boost.

If on stock fuel pump..definitely need a bigger pump

 

[Blown]

I am cutting it close. No more boost till I get quite a few other things sorted out and obtain a higher volume pump.

300 horses = 126LPH The stock pump is 130LPH max.

 

[donalds]

I use a walbro gss342 255lph just make sure it's not a knockoff
It's the same size as the factory pump directory installs
Made in the United States of America baby

 

[vroomzoomboom]

@Dono might have a pump he’s not using

 

[Blown]

Thanks men!

I order a 255LPH Walbro pump, delivery shows tomorrow and I should have my alternator Friday!

Excited to get it ready for more boost!!!!

 

[Blown]

!$@^Y@$%&U!!!!!!!!

New battery, 250 Amp alternator, 250 amp fuse, charge wire, and ground wire.

When running, I got 14.41 volts at the battery, alternator and 10 to 11 volts data logging/ at the EEC. I am at a loss as is the voltage?????? The voltage drops enough for the gauges to drop, speedo even drops and wideband O2 does not work. I fricking hate electrical gremlins and want to shoot it dead! If it was a short it should pop a fuse or melted something with the higher output alternator.

I checked the fuses that matter and switched out relays. I got clean new connections.

I checked codes and she show lows voltage and I got a battery light.

I am suspecting an electronic component. I am going to start her again now that she has cooled and check voltage. If she looks good then warms and does it again it should help diagnose..................................

Help?

 

[CDW6212R]

Check the main grounds, and any power wires that are obvious. The ground points are scattered and all of those feed the dash and everything but the main engine system. The one on the radiator support next to the battery is the main under hood point, one on each kick panel are major grounds for most of the dash.

Did you already go through the main power point at the PDB(under hood fuse box)? That mega fuse there is for virtually all power to the car(the PDB). Check obvious stuff like the block ground point, the small one on the firewall near the PCM. Hopefully it's not an internal circuit issue like from the GEM module, those can create lots of odd symptoms. If you notice multiple electrical issue, then a device like the GEM might be a good thing to check, or replace if you have a spare.

 

[donalds]

Belt slipping ...

 

[vroomzoomboom]

myself and a few others have this problem as well. voltage is good under the hood, but when you check it at the obd port it drops. same thing here, i have upgraded all the grounds, even added a few more, as well as all the wiring from the battery, and alt. have a 220amp alt as well. even went as far as replacing the starter and i am 13.4 volts inside the truck and can also see the lights in the dash dim at idle but when i get above 1200 or so rpm, everything is fine. if you find the problem, please share.

 

[CDW6212R]

myself and a few others have this problem as well. voltage is good under the hood, but when you check it at the obd port it drops. same thing here, i have upgraded all the grounds, even added a few more, as well as all the wiring from the battery, and alt. have a 220amp alt as well. even went as far as replacing the starter and i am 13.4 volts inside the truck and can also see the lights in the dash dim at idle but when i get above 1200 or so rpm, everything is fine. if you find the problem, please share.

I have the same 220 amp alternator on my stock 98 also. I had to use it to replace the old one that went out right after buying the truck. The idle voltage is low as mentioned, I think the pulley is a bit small for the stock 700rpm idle level. I haven't swapped the rebuilt stock alternator back in yet. But I have a larger pulley to put on the high amp alternator for the next time I use it.

With the 7" crank pulley Tim and I have, the belt speed will be higher. So if it is the alternator, that will help some.

 

[Blown]

The alternator has a smaller pulley to produce more current at lower RPM. It is charging and there is no slippage other than a slight chirp on start-up. I ran forscan this morning and got no OBDII codes. My Tweecer is reading 9.5volts....................... I will check all the grounds from the under hood distribution box in as mentioned.

Duh, I suspect the GEM module now. It is showing problems that are not there! It does not have issue with these items but for the low voltage code. I have not dealt with GEM modules before now so it was not on my radar.

I got many GEM codes:
B1302 - Accessory delay relay circuit failure
B1347 - Rear window defrost input relay coil circuit failure
B1814 - Rear wiper motor down relay circuit failure
B1323 - Door Ajar Warning Lamp circuit failure
B1398 - Left Front Power Window Relay circuit failure
P0500 - VSS sensor circuit fault.
B1359 - Ignition run / accessory circuit failure
B1318 - Battery voltage Low

I tried to run a specific test in Forscan for the GEM Module but it stops about half way an instructs me to contact the developers.

Where can you get a good GEM Module?

 

[CDW6212R]

There are NOS Gem modules on eBay occasionally, but they usually cost $125 give or take. There were basically four GEM modules for 95-01 4dr's. The 98 was a big model change year.

So I believe there are two for 95-97's, and two for 98-01's, the difference being 4WD. So a truck without 4WD(2WD or AWD) uses one GEM, and the rest with 4WD and a V6 use the other GEM module. They are relatively reliable, but at this age everything electronic is getting less reliable. I have one truck of my four that has some electrical quirks, and I think it's the GEM.