Multiple Electrical Issues....... | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Multiple Electrical Issues.......

B Laudun

New Member
Joined
July 2, 2018
Messages
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City, State
Chesapeake, VA
Year, Model & Trim Level
2011 Explorer Base
Hi, I'm new to the forum. Last week while sitting in the car I inadvertently turned the ignition key to the power position. By the time I noticed and attempted to start the car, it was too late, battery died. Got a jump from a co-worker and I was off to the races (figuratively speaking :)) Within the next couple of days, weird electrical issues stated to manifest. First indication was that the lift gate was open. Then it was the doors not locking when I start to drive. Then it was the interior cab lights coming on when I slow to about 5 mph. Now, when I turn off the ignition key, the interior lights stay on longer than usual, and eventually turns off :-( Question. What could be causing these seemingly unrelated issues. B.
 



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They might not be that unrelated. If it thinks the liftgate is open that might be the cause of the interior lights coming on, and staying on after the key was off.

You can turn the auto locks on and off, maybe try re-enabling them.
 






I had tried what you suggested before you had suggested it, no luck. I tried it again after reading your comments and still no luck. However, was able to resolve some problems since then. The major problem had to do with the Liftgate alarm going off every time I hit a bump on a road. I resolved that by slamming the Liftgate three times. I also turned my key in the ignition three times without turning the motor over. I still get the red icon on the dashboard, and the one alert in white actually goes away after I select OK from the steering wheel. Also, my interior lights are no longer coming on everytime I slowed to a stop. The remaining issues are that my interior lights do take a few minutes to turn off after I lock the car. My doors do not always locks when I start driving, and my rear wiper does not work. Now here is whats weird. Some days I can unlock my car the way I usually do, get in an go for a drive and not have any issues, including the rear wiper working. Next day, back to the issues I described. Thanks for the assistance Mbrooks420 :)
 






Your liftgate switch or wiring is almost surely bad. Lube the latches up well. Or, just bypass the switch so it always thinks it’s closed.
 






Your liftgate switch or wiring is almost surely bad. Lube the latches up well. Or, just bypass the switch so it always thinks it’s closed.
Yes, I have come to the same conclusion. I will start with the lube then move on to the wiring if need be. I don't have an auto liftgate so there is not switch. Will keep you posted, thanks.
 






Hi, I'm new to the forum. Last week while sitting in the car I inadvertently turned the ignition key to the power position. By the time I noticed and attempted to start the car, it was too late, battery died. Got a jump from a co-worker and I was off to the races (figuratively speaking :)) Within the next couple of days, weird electrical issues stated to manifest. First indication was that the lift gate was open. Then it was the doors not locking when I start to drive. Then it was the interior cab lights coming on when I slow to about 5 mph. Now, when I turn off the ignition key, the interior lights stay on longer than usual, and eventually turns off :-( Question. What could be causing these seemingly unrelated issues. B.
A bit late but Welcome to the Forum.:wave:
Have you checked the settings for the 'lock' issue? They may have changed assuming the issue is still there. When you said that you noticed the liftgate was open I'm guessing you meant unlocked since you don't have the powered one. The interior light issue could be related to the liftgate lock issue. Was all this just a one timeor are the issues still there?

Peter
 






Yes, I have come to the same conclusion. I will start with the lube then move on to the wiring if need be. I don't have an auto liftgate so there is not switch. Will keep you posted, thanks.
I meant the switch that tells it that it is closed.
 












I meant the switch that tells it that it is closed.
Yeah, misspoke. I meant that the Liftgate was properly closed, but I got the visual and audible alert that the Liftgate was Ajar. Anyway, going to get the lube today since this issue has is worse in that what was an intermittent problem has now become a permanent problem.
 






Looking at the diagram, it could be a few things that may be the problem and it appears they are parts (switches/module) that have to be replaced. Liftgate for 2011 Ford Explorer | Auto Nation Ford White Bear Lake

Peter
Thanks for sending the diagram. I wouldn't even know where to begin, not mechanically inclined, at least not with modern cars. I guess I can't just remove the Cabin light bulbs or remove the fuse for the Cabin lights. I actually tried after disconnecting the battery but I was unable to get to Fuse box in the cab or remove the light fixture from the 2nd and 3rd row seats. The bulbs in the Map lights were too hot to handle and burned my finger tips in trying :)
Question? What is the difficulty factor for getting to, removing and reinstalling the new door latch? Also, I would be very interested in bypassing that switch so that the vehicle thinks that the Liftgate is properly closed.
 






Yeah, misspoke. I meant that the Liftgate was properly closed, but I got the visual and audible alert that the Liftgate was Ajar. Anyway, going to get the lube today since this issue has is worse in that what was an intermittent problem has now become a permanent problem.
When you get the alarms have you checked to see if the interior lights are on? That has happened to another member with the same sort of problem. I could be wrong but I doubt that lubing anything would cure the issue. I think the issue is likely the switch. If the interior lights are on along with the alarm it is probably because of the switch sending a signal that the 'gate' is open.

Peter
 






The matches can get “sticky” and not close enough triggering the closed sensor, at least on the door switches.

You can pull the connector and put a jumper wire in. Getting to it might be a tad tricky.
 












It’s surely a part of the latch.
 






Hard to say whether the issues are related or just coincidental. Have you been able to trace anything down to determine the root cause?

If the door and hatch and other problems truly popped up after jumping and replacing a dead battery (and they are not hardware failures of the latches/switches), then I suppose it's possible something has shorted internally or been damaged by the jump/battery replacement (seems to be other threads with unusual electrical issues around the time of dead battery/jump/replacement). Unfortunately, troubleshooting electrical problems is a bit of a tedious/time consuming process...
 






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