My 2000 Explorer 4 door XLT | Page 4 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free!

My 2000 Explorer 4 door XLT

Empty pool table and no balls is a great analogy. The 4.10s do not like highway. But with 4.x4 low you could probably pull a house off a foundation. But on the good side, it keeps you safe, I keep the speed limit.
I have NOS Reflex in the front. The guy in Monroe said they are very similar to the non-adjustable Ranchos. I also have A-torsion bars from a ranger. Very tight with no roll. In the rear I have the coilovers. Gives it a tiny rake. I took home about 1400lbs of patio tile (only local roads under 30mph) and it was fine.

I would get the exhaust gasket from Ford. The Advance Auto one didn't fit right.

I would also suggest the huge trans cooler. I think hayden 679? I didn't have one from the factory. I drove in the mountains, touched it, you could probably fry an egg on the inlet side.

What coil overs do you have? Do you like them? Do they ride hard?
The rear of my truck looks like it is sagging, I do have a hydraulic jack that is pretty heavy back there but still.....
I was thinking coil over shocks would bring it up a bit, but I don't want to bounce out of my seat when I hit a bump.
No mountains in my area, I do mainly highway driving.
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





What coil overs do you have? Do you like them? Do they ride hard?
The rear of my truck looks like it is sagging, I do have a hydraulic jack that is pretty heavy back there but still.....
I was thinking coil over shocks would bring it up a bit, but I don't want to bounce out of my seat when I hit a bump.
No mountains in my area, I do mainly highway driving.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C53RXK/?tag=serious-20

Got them at advance with discounts. It does raise you a bit, but yes, I think the ride becomes a bit firmer.
The setup I have is definitely on the stiff side, it is a tradeoff to kill body roll. Also have poly sway bar stuff in the back.
I know on the Limited where they have the air shocks they use a weaker leaf spring(and torsion bar), so the ride with stock leafs will stiffen up a bit.
 






I also had sag on my 1996... I just went with new leaf springs. They are like $265 for both shipped new.

I also went with the Rancho 9000 adjustables all around. Love the ride they give.

Mine is totally even front to back.
 






I also had sag on my 1996... I just went with new leaf springs. They are cheap now-a-days at like $125 for both shipped new.

I also went with the Rancho 9000 adjustables all around. Love the ride they give.

Mine is totally even front to back.

Where did you get your leaf springs?
I had recently installed new leaf springs from Dorman on my 1998 4 door that just got towed away.
Since I have been working myself too hard I was too exhausted to swap the leaf springs over and then My Ranger trans went and I needed my driveway cleared.
Even with new leaf springs my 1998 looked lower in the back than the front, I did have that heavy hydraulic jack in the 98 too though.
It could also be an optical illusion since the front wheel wells are higher than the back?
 






Just sayin' - Springs are like Paint; you get what you pay for.

There's a reason why Made in USA Dayton Springs are a little more than the made in China & Thailand offerings.

Your mileage may vary :)
 






I fixed my AC today.
Now I am reminded of another problem I have, the idle hangs.
I was experiencing this on the other SOHC PCM too and was looking at the TPS and IAC readings.
Back then the signal return (which is ground) was around .15 volts which is too high. Should be .02
I dont know if that issue is still there since I put the OHV PCM in but I will get a look at it when I get a chance.

I pulled the IAC valve off and it was the wrong one. It was one for a SOHC engine. You can tell by the openings that the air flows through.
The OHV one has round openings, the SOHC one is kind of trapazoidial looking. LOL.

I found one with round holes and installed it. The RPM hang is better but not gone. Also more noticeable with the AC on.
Maybe I will order the correct one and look further at the throttle plate and TPS readings etc.
I don't suspect a vacuum leak because the fuel trims looked good(0% +or- 5%) the last time I checked them, I will revisit them too though.
 






Just sayin' - Springs are like Paint; you get what you pay for.

There's a reason why Made in USA Dayton Springs are a little more than the made in China & Thailand offerings.

Your mileage may vary :)
Where did you get Dayton springs? Do they have a website?
I used to have a place called Triangle springs that I got all my springs from. But then they closed.
 












Actually, I looked up my order invoice and I ordered from Michigan Truck Spring (aka truckspring.com). I remember I called them and verified they are not import springs and are basically better than OEM. I ordered the 43-1159 stock rate springs.

I paid $99.95 each, so $265.03 total shipped with tax. Sorry about my previous statement, that was for some questionable springs from some front end vendor.

Funny part is when I pulled off the "sagging" rear springs on my near-mint 1996 with 42k miles on it, they had the 43-967 part sticker on them still. Basically those are the 1250# rate springs that people put on with a 1-2" lift in the rear to give it more load carrying capacity. Turns out those are not even sagging, they have a different arc and rate and end up an inch or so lower in back.

I have them still sitting in the box I took the other springs out of if I want to swap them in at some point. I also picked up a set of 1" longer heavy duty lift shackles for the rear to match them to keep the ride level if I do want to put them back in at some point.
 






Yesterday I looked at the TPS reading after working my overtime Saturday (parts money!).
The TPS was reading 1.38 volts which is way too high for closed throttle. The data logger reading said 26% open, LOL.
The signal return wire (ground) was reading .05 volts, so that looks better than when it had the wrong PCM in it and read .15 volts.
I assume the wrong TPS is on the vehicle since I found some other wrong parts.
The TPS is not adjustable from the factory and the throttle stop I had already adjusted to where the plate sits closed and doesn't bind or stick closed.
I drilled the TPS out to make it adjustable since it was all plastic with no metal sleeves like some have.
Got the TPS voltage down to .58 volts which showed 10% opening. Drove the vehicle and it doesn't seem to have an idle hanging problem anymore.

I did notice that at WOT it only reaches 80% open in the data logger, something still is not right. (of course)

I decided to order a used throttle body with TPS to see if it reads better/differently with the correct part on there.
Assuming the correct TPS is on the throttle body I receive, LOL.
For the TPS, I don't have a part number to go by but the used one if it works correctly might shed some light on that subject.
I saw two part numbers on Advance Auto Parts website with notes on using the OEM number but since I don't have the original sensor for the 4.0 OHV engine I can't go that route yet.

When the throttle body shows up I will update this post.

IMG_8485.JPG


This is cheesy but it works for now! LOL

IMG_8499.JPG
 






So last week I filled the gas tank and of course there was a gas smell after that.
I did not see any drips or leakage so I am thinking there is something off the top of the tank that just needs to be re-attached if I am lucky.
Yesterday, after driving it for a week, I scanned for codes.
Found a code for the TPS voltage being too high and a large Evap leak code. LOL.
I will update this post when I find the Evap leak.

IMG_8481.JPG


IMG_8483.JPG
 












I assume the wrong TPS is on the vehicle since I found some other wrong parts.

@4pointslow

Historic Problem with the 2nd Gen.

From the Parts Counter to this Forum - the first hurdle/question is nailing down exactly which version of the Cologne V-6 the Explorer that is being worked on has.

Good work, GREAT PICS, and keep the updates coming!
 






I found the evap leak. Its the fuel tank vent valve.
Thing is broken and looks like someone tried to fix it.
I ordered a new one from oemselectautoparts on eBay, should have it by next weekend.
Planning on putting it on as soon as possible so I can fill the fuel tank instead of only adding a little here and there.
(full tank smells from the vapor leak)

vent valve.jpg
 






I changed the oil and filter after 240 miles and it was black, I figured as much because it was so nasty when I changed it the first time.
In a little while I will change it again to see how it looks.

Did a drain and refill on the transmission too, the fluid was black again.
Looks like I will be changing that again soon too.

While I was under there I saw one of the transmission hoses was seeping.
I decided to change the hoses and found two perfectly sized pieces of gray Parker 3/8 push lock hose that were left over from another Explorer project.
This hose is over kill and that's what I like about it.

IMG_8494.JPG
 






I forgot to mention this.
Someone had hose clamped the cruise control cable to the throttle cable in an attempt to make the cruise control work.
The cruise control cables are different between the SOHC and OHV 4.0's.
I ordered a cable for the OHV engine and it fit right onto the servo motor and throttle linkage.
So the cables can be interchanged, you don't have to swap the whole servo over.

I put new cruise control switches on this truck too, I took them off the 98 four door I just got rid of.
Funny thing is the cruise control doesn't work, I thinking the fuse is blown in the jumper harness (recall for fires) due to brake fluid leaking into the switch. I'll check that as soon as possible.

IMG_8495.JPG


IMG_8502.JPG


IMG_8497.JPG
 






There is supposed to be a large black bracket holding the AC hose up and out of the way of the transmission dipstick.
Of course I found half of it attached to the hose, looks like I need one of those too!
It seems it comes with a new AC hose from some manufacturers, but I will probably look for one in a junkyard.

IMG_8506.JPG
 






The front suspension on this Explorer was in pretty bad shape, the ball joints were falling out and there were some bad upper control arm bushings and some other parts mentioned earlier in this thread.
After getting most of the work done on this truck to make it drivable, I have been able to spend some time behind the steering wheel.
Well there has still been some front end rattle going over bumps.
Today while I was under the truck changing fluids, I grabbed the sway bar and moved it up and down.
The frame mount bushings are worn and allowing the sway bar to rattle up and down.

I went to order new bushings and saw that there were many different sizes. Outside I went to measure the sway bar.
34 mm is the sway bar outside diameter. I ordered some Moog bushings of eBay and should have them by the end of the week.
 






I found the evap leak. Its the fuel tank vent valve.
Thing is broken and looks like someone tried to fix it.
I ordered a new one from oemselectautoparts on eBay, should have it by next weekend.
Planning on putting it on as soon as possible so I can fill the fuel tank instead of only adding a little here and there.
(full tank smells from the vapor leak)

View attachment 321961
I needed one of those when I installed a new tank. Also the pressure sensor. They were rust jacked and just snapped off with almost no effort. The metal tube that the nylon line was attached to was also rotted away. I replaced with fuel rated 1/2 line, Was able to adapt both ends to the fragments.
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





There is supposed to be a large black bracket holding the AC hose up and out of the way of the transmission dipstick.
Of course I found half of it attached to the hose, looks like I need one of those too!
It seems it comes with a new AC hose from some manufacturers, but I will probably look for one in a junkyard.

View attachment 321967
Check the coil for cracks on the base. I replaced mine. I had some random stray misfires.
 






Back
Top