My 4.0 Build.....

Hey everyone
After a lot of reading and research, I've come up with a list of performance mods I plan to do on my 2001 sport 4.0 SOHC engine. The list is in order. In the end getting all this will take a very long time. With any luck my x will be pretty fast after all this.

Stage 1 Performance
1. Mac CAI Intake Kit (~170) (Complete)

2. Cat-Back Exhaust (Dual) ($300) (Complete)

3. Throttle Body (FRPP 70 mm) (~100) (Completed)

4. Headers-to-Muffler Exhaust (removing two or three cats and replacing with a freeflow) (~$200)

5. Custom Fog-Light Ram-Air Mod (see Jakee's ride) (~$50)

6. SCT X-Calibrator 2 w/ 3 tunes (www.hensonperformance.com) (~$400)

7. MAF Housing (73 mm) (www.zabtech.com) (~$245)

8. Crankshaft Underdrive Pulley (www.hensonperformance.com) (~$255),
Alternator Overdrive Pulley (~35), Water Pump Underdrive Pulley (~85) (www.underdogperformance.com)

9. Headers (www.explorerexpress.com) (~$385)

10. Electric Fan (Flex-a-Lite Black Magic 150) (~$206)

11. Limited Slip Differential

12. 4:10 Gears

You can see this list and pics on my cardomain page (link on my sig)

This list is very splotchy and incomplete. I was hoping to get some feedback on it. What do you guys think?

 

[Patton]

It is a word in my vocabulary.

Fair enough.

New throttle body came in today!!! And yes, it's powdercoated black. I'll be installing it tomorrow morning. I can't wait!

 

[Jakee]

Patton - You may need to adjust the cruise control. If you need help, let me know.

 

[Patton]

Throttle body is on. Sounds great, looks great, performs great. 2 questions though:
1. The throttle pedal is sticking a little. You have to push hard to get it to go anywhere, and when you unpop it the car always jolts. What can I do about this?
2. There was a spacer about 1/4 in. big that went in between the old TB and the intake manifold. It had a comb on it that I guess quiets everything down. I did not install it with the new TB. Do I need to go back and install it or is it not needed?

I can notice a difference in the get-up-in-go but the acceleration still stinks from ~0-20mph. Maybe once the engine relearns itself it'll get better but for now it still needs more work. I have yet to try cruise control, I'll do that asap.

One more question of a slightly different matter. The inside of the intake manifold (at least the part i could see) was EXCEEDINGLY grimy and gross. I was wondering if there was a way to clean it. like, take it off and flush it with soap and water or something. Is this possible or not even needed?

 

[aldive]

One more question of a slightly different matter. The inside of the intake manifold (at least the part i could see) was EXCEEDINGLY grimy and gross. I was wondering if there was a way to clean it. like, take it off and flush it with soap and water or something. Is this possible or not even needed?

Take off the TB and spray Sea Foam Deep Creep in the intake.

Good luck ....

 

[Patton]

Take off the TB and spray Sea Foam Deep Creep in the intake.

Good luck ....

Should I take the whole manifold off to get a better clean?

 

[aldive]

Should I take the whole manifold off to get a better clean?

I wouldn't bother.

Good luck ....

 

[aldive]

Post some pictures of your new TB and the intake.

 

[Patton]

http://www.imagedump.com/index.cgi?pick=get&tp=516018
http://www.imagedump.com/index.cgi?pick=get&tp=516019

 

[Patton]

Really random question but does anyone know where I can buy a MAC Performance sticker for my car?

 

[Jakee]

I took the time and took the entire upper intake off to clean. You can't get it very clean just spraying seafoam in the intake mouth, sorry.

Looks good.

Question 1 - You probably need to use that little screw that everyone thinks is a idle screw. It's not an idle screw but an adjustment you can use to keep the thing from sticking like you describe. You have to be careful and not adjust to much, but the idea is to get the butterfly off the tb bore. Just work it carefully until the sticking goes away. Now, the engine will have to relearn idle after the adjustment.

So, my suggestion is to disconnect the battery......Make the adjustment until the stick goes away. Reconnect the battery and crank her up. Let the truck idle for around 2 minutes without pressing the gas....Put it in gear and let it idle for another 2 minutes....Take it out of gear and run the ac full blast for 2 minutes...now back in gear for 2 minutes....the idle should be around 750 RPM's....if not, you adjusted the screw too much...

question 2 - I cut the combs out and then smoothed out with a flap wheel. You should be okay without it, but I liked the volume with it.

 

[Patton]

I took the time and took the entire upper intake off to clean. You can't get it very clean just spraying seafoam in the intake mouth, sorry.

Alright. Did you still use the seafoam after taking the entire manifold off or did you use another compound? Did you notice any performance difference after the cleaning?

Question 1 - You probably need to use that little screw that everyone thinks is a idle screw. It's not an idle screw but an adjustment you can use to keep the thing from sticking like you describe. You have to be careful and not adjust to much, but the idea is to get the butterfly off the tb bore. Just work it carefully until the sticking goes away. Now, the engine will have to relearn idle after the adjustment.

So, my suggestion is to disconnect the battery......Make the adjustment until the stick goes away. Reconnect the battery and crank her up. Let the truck idle for around 2 minutes without pressing the gas....Put it in gear and let it idle for another 2 minutes....Take it out of gear and run the ac full blast for 2 minutes...now back in gear for 2 minutes....the idle should be around 750 RPM's....if not, you adjusted the screw too much...

Thanks Jake, I will try this. Only problem is I think the idle adjustment screw is powdercoated in place. I wonder how hard it will be to move? I'll find out tomorrow.

 

[Jakee]

Yes - I have ran seafoam thru the pvc hoses, and yes, it did help clean the valves along with other things. I did notice a difference after doing this.

Another note; your intake will end up just as dirty in a very short period of time. The reason why is because of the pvc discharge into the intake. The pvc system on these engines are way overly affective. you can use a oil separator on the pvc hose to keep oil from returning into the intake. Not only does it dirty the intake, but it actually "pollutes" the incoming air, which has been known to lower the octane rating, and in some extreme cases, actually cause detonation....I say extreme cases, cuss you will not see this on a bone stock motor and tune, just when you're trying to get everything you can, and all the timing you can..

 

[Patton]

Perfect Jakee, thankyou.
I have a sudden increase in funds because I'm selling a few things on Ebay and I was thinking about getting an electric radiator. Im looking at the Flex-A-Lite Black Magic 150 http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=FLX%2D150&N=700+115&autoview=sku. I have one question for now. Is that kit from summit racing ALL I'll need to buy or is there more stuff? Like does it come with a controller? Will I need to buy a new, shorter belt or will the radiator pulley not be removed?

 

[aldive]

I have a sudden increase in funds because I'm selling a few things on Ebay and I was thinking about getting an electric radiator. Im looking at the Flex-A-Lite Black Magic 150 http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=FLX%2D150&N=700+115&autoview=sku.

An e fan is a great mod. I once used the 150 ( http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=75371&highlight=electric+fan ) but now use the 180 ( http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=140251&highlight=electric+fan ).

I have one question for now. Is that kit from summit racing ALL I'll need to buy or is there more stuff? Like does it come with a controller? Will I need to buy a new, shorter belt or will the radiator pulley not be removed?

The e fan comes with a controller.

Not sure what you mean bt a radiator pulley? I assume you mean the water pump pulley? If that is what you are referring to, then a new belt is not needed ( you are not doing anything to the pulley ).

 

[Patton]

Alright. Sorry I don't know what I was thinking with the pulley thing.
So that kit is all I need to buy?
How hard is the install? I'm really new to this stuff, should I get a professional to do this? How much do you think that would cost?

 

[aldive]

Alright. Sorry I don't know what I was thinking with the pulley thing.
So that kit is all I need to buy?
How hard is the install? I'm really new to this stuff, should I get a professional to do this? How much do you think that would cost?

Its not a difficult install at all. The most difficult part is the removal of the stock fan. It is detailed in the link in my post above.

A word of advice: take a good look at the 180 fan.

Good luck.

 

[Patton]

It's my impression that the only differences between the 150 and 180 are noise and size, and of course price. It's also my impression that the 150 can move enough air for my engine, and I don't care about noise, in fact the louder the better for me. So I cannot justify spending more money for something I don't particularly need. Besides, ~$220 is JUST inside my budget.

 

[Patton]

Okay it's either headers to mufflers exhaust ($200) or e-fan (~$220). Can't decide which one.

 

[jah81592]

As jake mentioned earlier adjust the screw (just a little) to stop the initial binding. You will have a better seat in the pants feel with the pulley. For $255.00 they are a hell of a buy. I guarentee it. I felt more of a difference with the pulley than I did the fan. Just my .02!-J

 

[Jakee]

Yes - The pulley is a better mod in my opinion but the E-fan is VERY close.

I wouldn't get the 150 if I were you, trust me on this. I made that mistake. The 180 is the best and It's not hard to install. I can send some pics of how I did it with instructions to help you out.


Also, I think I have a MAC sticker left over but I have to verify.


When you to the screw adjustment, inspect the throttle cable and make sure there's not a pc of wire frayed. (the inside of the cable is made of little wires) That could also cause sticking.