What is your ultimate OHV 4.0 build? | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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What is your ultimate OHV 4.0 build?

it was a 5spd 2wd. my truck has 3.55s and ill have 31x10.50 15s on it by the end of the week. i do understand what youre getting at though. weight and drivetrain drag changes it all. ive read that the nice thing about the v6 is that it makes a ton of torque over a broad power band which makes it very versitle. i do plan on regearing the truck in the future and off roading it a bit. would be nice to only modify the truck where needed

If it was me I would build a nice 422 ohv and throw 4.56 gears in it, IF AND IF you dont do ALOT of long or high speed highway traveling. .that combo you would be very happy with and be the cheapest easiest route. .bare minimum run 4.10 gears if alot of high speed long highway use..personally I would gear first (choose gears based off that info^^^) then decide what motor you want..gears will make your truck a WHOLE new truck, promise you that..also gears are not cheap at all and there is WAYYY more to a v8 swap then you think, even if it is carb..

Fyi my sc motor and truck I ran 4.88s and had a set of 33s street tires and it would flex the whole suspension out, almost picking the front end off the ground and put a smile on your face every time
 



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Also 4.10 gears can be found in the junk yard, they came stock for stock tires..why I said go 4.56 tho if you want the added power feeling..but bare minimum go 4.10...then decide on motor..
 






5spd, 4x4. my biggest thing is that i dont want to be disappointed if i dump 2k+ into a v6 when i could throw the same amount into the v8 i got to update it a bit and get better results. if i swap the v8 in i want to keep it a stick car and use the 1354 i got and the motor will be carbed. if that advance adapters kit works then it may be a go.

i looked on the ranger station and one guy dynoed his truck at 191hp and 254trq at the wheels with the ohv. that alone made me think it over a bit more

This is a dyno sheet from a 4x4 5.0 auto explorer on 33s.it has some stuff like headers, some head work, tb, efan, tune and some other little things......does this make you ""think it over a bit more"""


IMG_20140120_141634_zpspeygtkul.jpg



And this is my ohv v6 auto 4x4 on BIG HEAVY 36X14.50


2012-06-12%2021.02.35_zps6wfrxbgq.jpg


And this is my stockish ohv 2wd 5speed.just has cai, efan, feul pump,-6an line, no mufflers dumped at cats and 108 octane.

20131221_141941_zpsggvsftb8.jpg
 






Also 4.10 gears can be found in the junk yard, they came stock for stock tires..why I said go 4.56 tho if you want the added power feeling..but bare minimum go 4.10...then decide on motor..
ive thought of going 4.10 or 4.30s. i can tell the truck would like more then the 3.55s. i do a lot of commuting right now and for the next few years so i dont want to go too extreme on the gearing
 






ive thought of going 4.10 or 4.30s. i can tell the truck would like more then the 3.55s. i do a lot of commuting right now and for the next few years so i dont want to go too extreme on the gearing

Then go 4.10..fyi they dont make 4.30s next up is 4.56...keep in mind 4.10 is not extreme, its stock..31s and 3.55s are going to suck for mpg and stress on the drivetrain/motor,4.10 would put you back to stock
 






are you running a posi, air locker, or regular locker?
 






are you running a posi, air locker, or regular locker?

Yukon 4.88s and Ausie front and back in the explorer.3.73 gears with ford racing clutch pack in the ranger(26" tires)
 






now, for comparison, here's my 4.0 ohv. 422 cam, polished heads with minor porting and polishing, si valves, M90, no intercooler. Stock tires and gearing. 4x4 with front drive shaft removed. Not exactly stellar. I would like to think the dyno was reading low. Notice the gobs of low and mid range. The run just started at 3000rpm. Runs out of steam fast as rev's go up. This is the reason I cautioned you about the 4.0 ohv. It really does have a TON of power right off idle though.
 

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This is the reason I cautioned you about the 4.0 ohv. It really does have a TON of power right off idle though.

i hear ya Dono. i am trying to not picture the 4.0 as a high hp speed demon and try to focus at its good side if i go with it. i see the torque being what youd want in a 4500lb truck anyways. really i think itll come down to the basics of any build, time and money. still think itd be cool to tell someone that i have a v6 in there and not the v8 they thought they heard
 






The kids drive my 4.0 ohv. They would like me to figure out how to take some of that low end grunt away. Just barely touch the gas and she wants to really take off. Not so great for winter.
Mean sounding? It sounds like a serious performance motor when allowed to rev. I will say I'm really proud of the low end, and its way, more powerful than my v8 down low.

I think if your looking for low end, you will be happy. Sound? You, you can make it sound killer. Win 1/4 mile races? Nope.

A cam change without pulling the block is very doable. Its tight, but there is enough room. Do the heads, dual springs, and the cam at the same time. You will need longer push rods though.

You have the standard trans already, so you might get by without tuning. Once you open the exhaust you might want to look at injectors and tuning. Im not sure if those 19lb injectors would be pushed passed their limit.
 






Thanks for the advice, but it is a bit pie in the sky. Maybe I was not fully clear. I am looking for specs. ie bore 40 over with this piston. run this head, cam and injectors. This header works with your motor/trans/4WD combo. I want to collect the parts and take it get rebuilt at a good local machine shop. Money I have, it is time I lack.
If I go the 5.0 route I double the work or lose the 5 speed.
Can any one give me some good, usable advice to achieve my goal. We all know what a new truck cost. I have no issue spending $5k on this one.

To keep the 5 speed behind a 5.0 all you need is a manual trans from a 97-03 f150 with the 4.2 v6. This shares the same SBF bolt pattern, the 4.6 v8 is a strange bolt pattern and it moves the starter down far enough to be aggravating, and it doesn't match the 302 bolt pattern.
 






The kids drive my 4.0 ohv. They would like me to figure out how to take some of that low end grunt away. Just barely touch the gas and she wants to really take off. Not so great for winter.
Mean sounding? It sounds like a serious performance motor when allowed to rev. I will say I'm really proud of the low end, and its way, more powerful than my v8 down low.

well with a 200k motor with an intake, bigger TB, ported lower, ignition upgrades and a custom cat pipe and a 50 series flowmaster to a 1 foot dump pipe i can spin the open diff in wet/sandy conditions all day long with 3.55s so i can only imagine it with more work and gears.
 






well with a 200k motor with an intake, bigger TB, ported lower, ignition upgrades and a custom cat pipe and a 50 series flowmaster to a 1 foot dump pipe i can spin the open diff in wet/sandy conditions all day long with 3.55s so i can only imagine it with more work and gears.

I have similar as you: 232k air intake, headers, larger exhaust pipe, magnaflow muffler dumped, open 3.27 rear, 2wd mine will spin on sand and wet if I let it.
 






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