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Ford Explorer Community - Maintenance - Modifications - Performance Upgrades - Problem Solving - Off-Road - Street
Explorer Forum Covers the Explorer ST, Explorer Sport, Explorer Sport Trac, Lincoln Aviator, Mercury Mountaineer, Mazda Navajo, Ford Ranger, Mazda Pickups, and the Ford Aerostar
I wish it was consistently in the 12's.
2 out of 6 were in the 13's.
My slowest run was 13.08 and the other was a 13.06
With traction problems I expect a variance in times.
Still hitting 13's, that means I have to keep working on it to make it faster. lol.
I was just reviewing the videos, I did hit 20 lbs of boost. Also I see the boost gauge bouncing, it did not do that before. Must be the newer tensioner I installed. It feels weaker than the original one. I will have to look into getting one with a stronger spring in it. I don't see any stronger high performance ones so I might look into having one made. There is a company called Thumper Racing right here in NJ, maybe I will see if they could do something.
The other thought is maybe getting the heavy duty green belt on the size that fits the 2.7 pulley and see if that works. Probably wont be that lucky.
Many years ago (back in the 1980s I think) some people tried to drive roots type blowers with (motorcycle?) chains because they were strong and wouldn't slip with high boost like the V belts did. As I recall if the engine backfired the chain was often destroyed.
At some point of boost increase you may have to consider a cog belt.
To avoid another entire set of custom pulleys you might be able to add a drive cog pulley in front of the normal 6 groove pulley and a blower cog pulley.
According to Kenne Bell:
"Do I need a cog belt system? There are no “belt problems” with Kenne Bell Kits. We’ve never used a cog belt drive nor do we recommend it. All our kits incorporate serpentine belts (KB or Dayco). Goodyear Gatorback’s do not hold up nearly as well as the “solid” belts. We run 6 rib systems up to 16psi and 8 rib to 26psi.
The low Kenne Bell supercharger power consumption (engine HP to drive supercharger) coupled to the relatively large diameter supercharger drive pullies (larger displacement superchargers use larger OD pullies) negate the need for expensive cog belt systems. Lower supercharger PC= less work for the belt = fewer ribs."
I suspect you're at the point of "little bang for the buck" by increasing boost. Maybe its time to seriously consider higher flow heads.
You read my mind.
I have been in contact with Super Six motorsports and probably will order heads in January. If all goes well I will be ordering pistons and Rods from MMR shortly after that.
This is my plan but sometimes life happens and what you were planning to do changes.
I am not seeing a heavy duty 8 rib tensioner for reasonable pricing.
Google: Magnuson Superchargers HD Tensioner Upgrade Its big money at $180.00. I'm sure you will find a cheaper solution.
I just kinda assumed you were in the relm that no man has gone before on the 4.0 sohc so I didn't expect to see the motor in question listed.
I'm not even sure if the tension would be much better than what you already have.
The Ford SuperCoupe tensioners have an upgraded spring available, that might be an option also. http://spinningwheels-sc.com/pulleysandpulleykits.aspx
Im just spewing stuff out in hopes that it will give you an idea.
That stuff does help,
Swapping to a stronger spring was something I wondered about. I didn't even know it had been done before so that link with the heavier spring is interesting.
I do have a bent Mustang 4.0 SOHC tensioner that I plan to take apart to investigate.
I did see another tensioner that someone made by putting two tensioners together piggy backed. I think they called it franktensioner. LOL. awesome.
Tracks are all closed for the season now so I got time to look into things.
I have some injectors to put in that I plan to start doing to day since I am off for the week. Then there is this Ford Racing Throttle body I have had for a year now, should get that test fitted while doing the injectors. But first I plan to measure this vibration I have at around 70-85 mph. I have an electric vibration analyzer(EVA) I got off eBay years ago. It was a tool the Ford dealerships used before a newer tool (called the MTS4000) came out. I used the EVA once to prove to myself I had a tire vibration, now I get to use it again.
I got an email back from ASP and they said "Custom parts so no part numbers . They just have to order by vehicle."
So if you want one then call them up while it is fresh in their minds. Also take note: I had the extra 2 ribs added to the front of the pulley.
Make sure that is what you want, if not you may have to send in a stock pulley.
I'm fairly sure they are different, the 5.0 WP flange is very large with a large bolt pattern. I don't think the V6 WP flange is that big, the bolt pattern.
That is a good looking WP pulley though, I wonder what that will cost if needed. I think the stock one is wide enough, but only if it can be located just right(hopefully spaced out a little to gain the meat for the 2 extra ribs).
I'm fairly sure they are different, the 5.0 WP flange is very large with a large bolt pattern. I don't think the V6 WP flange is that big, the bolt pattern.
That is a good looking WP pulley though, I wonder what that will cost if needed. I think the stock one is wide enough, but only if it can be located just right(hopefully spaced out a little to gain the meat for the 2 extra ribs).
My 4.0 SOHC 8 Rib smooth pulley cost me 100.00.
Keep in mind I had a bunch of pulleys made at the same time, and it is a custom made pulley so prices change accordingly. You have to check with ASP for an accurate price for a 5.0 water pump pulley.
With the 5.0 being more common to high performance stuff, you would think that there would already be an 8 rib pulleys made for them. But then again it is an Explorer and the distance from the engine to the pulleys are different.
[MENTION=27215]CDW6212R[/MENTION]
Did you test fit your PS pulley on your 5.0 yet? Can we get conformation that it works or not?
Yesterday I road tested my Explorer with the EVA hooked up. I placed the magnetic based sensor on my seat track and went for a ride.
I picked up two vibrations that stood out. One is tire speed related(840), the other is driveshaft speed related(4200).
The road test was at about 70 mph.
The EVA can record data in frames, it does about 10 frames at a time.
Here is a picture of the readings I got before doing any work to the vehicle.
I have two rear driveshafts for my Explorer since I picked a spare up at a junkyard.
I put the junkyard one in a while back, and last week I took the other one to have it rebuilt and balanced.
After installing the rebuilt one the truck felt smooother, but still not perfect.
The EVA showed a drop in "G's" from 6 to 3, on the driveline vibration.
I also had the front two tires balanced(already had rear two done previously), after my road test with the rebuilt shaft.
That was another improvement but no change on the EVA readings(the 840 rpm one). I am thinking CV shaft.
I am wondering if the CV shafts can be balanced where I took my driveshaft, I will have to ask them. I do plan on taking them the fornt driveshaft when possible.
Not yet, I've been slammed at work with parcels, yesterday I had over 120 for sure. I've been trying to finish the Christmas shopping and set up a new 58" TV I got last week. Maybe tomorrow, I have to get the last presents for my niece and nephew today.
I did give the PS pulley a try today. I almost got it on, but the corrosion on the old PS pump hub, plus the tight dimension of the new pulley made it tough. I ran a file on the steel hub to be sure it was clean, but the pulley still doesn't want to go on. I used the bolts to get it on to be about flush with the hub outer surface, but that's a good 1/8" shy of being on completely.
I had to pry the old pulley off, so I didn't push my luck with the new aluminum pulley. I took it back off and I'll open up the inner diameter a bit. I'd say it should be made about .010 or more larger than it is, that doesn't need to be a super tight fit if the bolt holes are square and true.
It does look like it will be the right pulley though, for the 4.0 or the 5.0 PS. The deep section goes on the pump, I was thinking it would be going on with the shallow side in. I'm heading to Toys R Us for one thing I ordered yesterday, and to get some more Christmas cards.
Clean that hub up real good. My pulley fit perfectly but my hub was very clean when I installed it.
About the throttle body oval to round question you posted on Tim's thread, I just used a sewer pipe coupler at first and then went to a real silicone coupler off eBay. The coupler is round but will fit the oval.
I am working on my Ford Racing Throttle body, I will take some pictures.