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My 98 super charged EX

1998 Explorer 4.0 SOHC
Bought it with a melted alternator/wiring harness from a junkyard for $1,000
Fixed it, drove it for two weeks, then I boosted it.
Started with an M90 supercharger kit from www.Bansheesuperchargerkit.com
Upgraded to an M112 Lightning supercharger that was a prototype kit.
Next was the M122 off a 2012 GT500
I have reached 20 lbs of boost (with ARP head studs) and a 12.83 in a quarter mile.

Pictures
1. How it looked when I brought it home.
2.The M90 supercharger installed
3.The GT500 supercharger installed
4.How it looks now
5.Wheelie
green ex.jpg
DSC02710.JPG
5.JPG
Lowered Rear.jpg
Exploder wheelie.jpg
 



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I can't wait to see what happens :popcorn::usa:
 



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As much as I'd like to hate on a chevy LS, they are cheap to build and make power. A Ford 302 doesn't compare out the box and I'm not sure a stock block would hold the power your trying to make. The 4r70w trans behind the 302 can be made to hold anything you want to throw at it.

I do see great deals on used SBF parts popping up on craigslist and offer up, so keep an eye there for heads and rotating assemblies. If your up for some fab work a 351w would be a great option.
 






If you wanted to keep the V6 I have a couple of questions:
1. Could you use an older C4 automatic? I mean for drag racing the C4 can be built up very very stout and with the C5 bellhousing it mates to the cologne 60 degree 6cyl. Reverse manual valve body C4/5 behind the 4.0 was the hot setup back in the day (desert racing and drag strip for V6 classes)

2. Can the newer Ford trans be adapted to the SOHC? I mean I know US shift is making controllers for what the 6r80E can it be mated to a SOHC?

I would be looking at the 302/351 for easy of the swap...I mean the 302 bolts in for the most part, the 351 is wider and requires a bit more but still a very do able swap on a budget
The LS engines oooooh la la! 302 was created in 1969, its lacking a few things when compared to the 5.3 or 6.0. Aluminum block aluminum heads, tight package fits anywhere, tons of support....
How different do you want to be?
 






No LS hate here either. I kinda think if you go the Ford pushrod route you'll spend a lot of time and money just to get a better view of the LS powered tail lights. In the end , when it comes to the diy hot rod the LS is the benchmark.
 






Since Its cold outside I found something else to work on.
Started making tuning videos for my youtube channel.
There are 4 so far, here is the first one.

 






I started building up a 4.0 SOHC junkyard engine to swap into this truck because I believe I may have hurt the engine with the Nitrous.
During the Corona virus shut down I was down to only working two 9 hours days a week so I had time on my hands to start this project.
The recording started after the block was stripped bare, with honing the cylinders.
Here is the first video in the series.

 






I figured I would post a link to this video where I started timing the junkyard engine.
Might be helpful to others working on 4.0 SOHC engines.

 






How the build up going
I'm sure you have been busy with your new ex
Just wondering
 






Just got the lower intake manifold gasket installed on my 2000 four door explorer today, I'm back to 2 drivable vehicles.
Next up is pull the transmission out of my 2001 Ranger. Might not even start that this weekend, already exhausted from today.
 






Here is part 2 of the 4.0 SOHC timing video.

 






Factory rear main seal installation video.

 






Priming the oiling system with the engine still on the engine stand.

 






 






 






Racing time oooh yeah
 






So, the miss is still there? Holy ****.
What's next to troubleshoot this? It's crazy.
 






So last year when I installed the engine, I noticed the thing was still messed up.
I bought a fuel injector flow tester and tested both sets of 60lb injectors I had and swapped them from bank to bank and tried both sets.
So its not a defective injector. I also ran more electrical tests on the injector wiring and found nothing wrong.
Then I made a tune with the fuel trims turned off and found that there is no misfire but the O2 sensor readings still looked like crap.
So I figured the bad O2 sensor readings were causing the misfire when fuel trims added too much fuel due to the bad O2 readings.
So now I just have to find out why the O2 readings are crappy like they are only on bank 2.

After installing the junkyard engine with the new headers, I cant get the pipes to seal up to the headers due to fatigued flanges.
So I have exhaust leaks on both banks now but only have the running problem on bank 2 like it has been. I had ruled out exhaust leaks before with a smoke machine. I also had swapped in a different O2 sensor, it was a known good used one.
Now the state inspection ran out and I can not get a good sticker since the monitors wont pass with it running bad on bank 2, so I can not drive it on the street now to make things worse. So I still don't know what is wrong with it.

I have put everything aside for a while as I needed a break after all the work I had to do last year including rebuilding the transmission on my Ranger. I didn't even get to clean my garage enough to get both supercharged Explorers in there for the winter.
I did clean the garage a couple weeks ago and now both Supercharged Explorers are there but the silver one sat out all winter and spring and the paint looks like crap now.
I have also been working on becoming completely debt free and am not far off. This will open up more possibilities for my next project when the time comes.
 






So last year when I installed the engine, I noticed the thing was still messed up.
I bought a fuel injector flow tester and tested both sets of 60lb injectors I had and swapped them from bank to bank and tried both sets.
So its not a defective injector. I also ran more electrical tests on the injector wiring and found nothing wrong.
Then I made a tune with the fuel trims turned off and found that there is no misfire but the O2 sensor readings still looked like crap.
So I figured the bad O2 sensor readings were causing the misfire when fuel trims added too much fuel due to the bad O2 readings.
So now I just have to find out why the O2 readings are crappy like they are only on bank 2.

After installing the junkyard engine with the new headers, I cant get the pipes to seal up to the headers due to fatigued flanges.
So I have exhaust leaks on both banks now but only have the running problem on bank 2 like it has been. I had ruled out exhaust leaks before with a smoke machine. I also had swapped in a different O2 sensor, it was a known good used one.
Now the state inspection ran out and I can not get a good sticker since the monitors wont pass with it running bad on bank 2, so I can not drive it on the street now to make things worse. So I still don't know what is wrong with it.

I have put everything aside for a while as I needed a break after all the work I had to do last year including rebuilding the transmission on my Ranger. I didn't even get to clean my garage enough to get both supercharged Explorers in there for the winter.
I did clean the garage a couple weeks ago and now both Supercharged Explorers are there but the silver one sat out all winter and spring and the paint looks like crap now.
I have also been working on becoming completely debt free and am not far off. This will open up more possibilities for my next project when the time comes.
Stupid question.
Have you looked at the Capacitors inside the pcm ?
I've seen this somewhere on the forum .
He just soldered in new caps and fixed it .
Only takes a few minutes to remove the pcm and pull the cover off it.

Thought I'd ask.
 






This is crazy. I remember it all started with a nitrous backfire.

As Donalds said, it might be worth looking at the pcm.
I know you are absolutely against just replacing parts unless you can prove there is an issue.

Fantastic news on the debt side of things! There's a whole bunch of us here that are jealous (In a good way).
We need to make the sacrifices you have to get there.
 



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In the past I have soldered capacitors on a home PC motherboard, and a Fisher home stereo.
A guy I worked with had a PCM with bad caps for his Fox body Mustang.

I have three PCM's for my truck, I have tried swapping them and ruled out a bad PCM.
Also tried different tunes.
Swapped spark plugs, wires, coil pack, injectors, PCM, tune, O2 sensor and complete engine from oil pan to valve covers.
I smoke tested the exhaust before the engine swap and ruled out exhaust leak but now I have exhaust leaks. LOL

Problem is only on bank 2, the B2S1 O2 sensor reading looks like crap and so did the wideband that I just happen to have on that same bank 2.
So they cant be lying because they are independent from each other.

Could be an electrical problem like high resistance in the power wire to an injector, or the control wire for an injector.
I have done extensive electrical testing as well, but sometimes electrical problems are difficult to find.
For instance, one of the tests that I have performed is called a voltage drop test. To do that with an injector circuit you have to take the injector out of the circuit and use a test light so that the circuit can be made to be an always on circuit unlike a normal pulsing injector circuit.
I have done this but was the test light I used enough of a load for the test to be accurate? On the other hand I did look at the current ramp of all the injectors and compared them to one another and didnt see anything wrong, they drew about 7 amps.

What gets me is it runs like it did years ago, when I had mixed up cyl 4 and 5 injector connectors. I have checked to make sure they are on correctly paying real close attention multiple times and they are on the correct injectors. Maybe two control circuits are shorted together? Thought I tested for that as well but I am getting older and forgetful as the years go by. lol
 






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