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My BII Project
- Thread starter SBJ420
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- B2 "Slightly" Modified
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- FOURTEN
okay a couple of things:
I would not expect hose clamps to be able to hold the nylon fuel line onto your filter, there is more than 85 PSI in the fuel line. Your best bet is to build your own lines to fix the missing filter clip mounts.
Making your own line requires getting the fittings from a donor truck, boiling the nylon line in water and pressing the nylon line over all 3 flares on the fittings.
I have done this several times for engine conversions, to make custom lines.
This is not an easy process. If you do not get over all 3 flares it will not hold
You may also look into aftermarket EFI filter assemblies, may be easier.
The spare tire hanger will crack the fiberglass on the hatch, even with a stock size tire. Over time they all crack, the hinges wear out, etc.
There are many solutions to this, I have hung a 33" tire on there successfully for years, although I do not anymore (ripped too much)
My plan is to re-use the factory hinges and part of the swing itself, but to make it much stronger and latch to my rear bumper. For now I removed the assembly completely.
The swing makes an excellent place to mount your CB antennea, for now mine is sitting where the upper hinge used to be. You could easily modify it to hold a hi lift jack and also a jerry can.
I know many people have gotten away with keeping the stock carrier, even with 33-35" tires by re-enforcing the fiberglass mounting from inside the hatch. the factory bolt spacing and re-enforcement is not adequate.
I will be building a complete custom 2 piece hatch for my truck, so things are going to change quite a bit.
Looking good!
I would not expect hose clamps to be able to hold the nylon fuel line onto your filter, there is more than 85 PSI in the fuel line. Your best bet is to build your own lines to fix the missing filter clip mounts.
Making your own line requires getting the fittings from a donor truck, boiling the nylon line in water and pressing the nylon line over all 3 flares on the fittings.
I have done this several times for engine conversions, to make custom lines.
This is not an easy process. If you do not get over all 3 flares it will not hold
You may also look into aftermarket EFI filter assemblies, may be easier.
The spare tire hanger will crack the fiberglass on the hatch, even with a stock size tire. Over time they all crack, the hinges wear out, etc.
There are many solutions to this, I have hung a 33" tire on there successfully for years, although I do not anymore (ripped too much)
My plan is to re-use the factory hinges and part of the swing itself, but to make it much stronger and latch to my rear bumper. For now I removed the assembly completely.
The swing makes an excellent place to mount your CB antennea, for now mine is sitting where the upper hinge used to be. You could easily modify it to hold a hi lift jack and also a jerry can.
I know many people have gotten away with keeping the stock carrier, even with 33-35" tires by re-enforcing the fiberglass mounting from inside the hatch. the factory bolt spacing and re-enforcement is not adequate.
I will be building a complete custom 2 piece hatch for my truck, so things are going to change quite a bit.
Looking good!
SBJ420
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okay thanks for the info! I was thinking that you could use the mounting holes on the side for the CB. Truck came with one so whynot use it! I am sure it will be handy. you were telling me about this 4.0L, it will drop right in?
I have an option of getting one for around $300. I can do this with few mods?
I want to keep my tire off the back, so I can see better, also people will try there hardest to get that big tire off, looks like some one tryed before me with a saw. How are these things on the top? I would like to put the tire on the top of the truck. I was also thinking of keeping the tire on the floor in the back with my tools. I would like to have it so that it was mounted down along with my tool box. what is the best way to do that? I was thinking I could drill a hole though the floor and take the old bolt that was going though the hatch on the back and push it though and use the wingnut to tighten it down.
Also I want to take one seat out in the back and fill the space with a sub box. not much room for a box any place in this thing!
I have an option of getting one for around $300. I can do this with few mods?
I want to keep my tire off the back, so I can see better, also people will try there hardest to get that big tire off, looks like some one tryed before me with a saw. How are these things on the top? I would like to put the tire on the top of the truck. I was also thinking of keeping the tire on the floor in the back with my tools. I would like to have it so that it was mounted down along with my tool box. what is the best way to do that? I was thinking I could drill a hole though the floor and take the old bolt that was going though the hatch on the back and push it though and use the wingnut to tighten it down.
Also I want to take one seat out in the back and fill the space with a sub box. not much room for a box any place in this thing!
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I have a 35" spare in my cargo space, I put it where the back seat used to be. I strap down my tool boxes and spare parts behind it when I go 4x4ing as well as my small sub box.
I do not recommend putting a 80# tire on the roof, not if you are going to be doing any serious wheeling, the weight up there is not a good thing.
The absolute best place for the spare tire is on the back, the BII can use as much weight as it can get over the rear bumper and keeping it down low is a good idea.
The cargo floor is the second best spot.
What do you need to see out the back your side mirrors and rear view mirror wont overcome, even with a 33" back there, who cares! I plan to get my spare back on the hatch ASAP..
the 4.0L conversion is basicaly a bolt in affair, there is a bit of wiring that needs to be done, but its not too difficult IMO.
best upgrade you can make to this truck will be putting a 4.0L in it.
try doing some research on this and then come back with questions, I have answered the 4.0L OHV conversion questions about 800 times online, and I learned how to do the conversion myself by researching it years ago. if you still have questions or cant find all the info you need then come back and I will be more then glad to help.
Try this forum, therangerstation.com, rangerpowersports.com, google.com etc
This is a pretty common swap, but then knowing almost every conversion is different no matter how similar, you need to know 100% of what you need to do and why, transmission choice, how you wire it, what year 4.0L you use, etc all play a role...
if you are prepared enough and have a prebuilt wiring harness ready to go this conversion can be done in a single weekend
I do not recommend putting a 80# tire on the roof, not if you are going to be doing any serious wheeling, the weight up there is not a good thing.
The absolute best place for the spare tire is on the back, the BII can use as much weight as it can get over the rear bumper and keeping it down low is a good idea.
The cargo floor is the second best spot.
What do you need to see out the back your side mirrors and rear view mirror wont overcome, even with a 33" back there, who cares! I plan to get my spare back on the hatch ASAP..
the 4.0L conversion is basicaly a bolt in affair, there is a bit of wiring that needs to be done, but its not too difficult IMO.
best upgrade you can make to this truck will be putting a 4.0L in it.
try doing some research on this and then come back with questions, I have answered the 4.0L OHV conversion questions about 800 times online, and I learned how to do the conversion myself by researching it years ago. if you still have questions or cant find all the info you need then come back and I will be more then glad to help.
Try this forum, therangerstation.com, rangerpowersports.com, google.com etc
This is a pretty common swap, but then knowing almost every conversion is different no matter how similar, you need to know 100% of what you need to do and why, transmission choice, how you wire it, what year 4.0L you use, etc all play a role...
if you are prepared enough and have a prebuilt wiring harness ready to go this conversion can be done in a single weekend
- Joined
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- FOURTEN
i can scan in my original 88 fuse panel diagram from the metal cover if you need me to, but it will be a while, its at home and it also has two switches mounted to it so I will have to disconnect them
have you tried Google?
will be the same as 86-88 Ranger too
have you tried Google?
will be the same as 86-88 Ranger too
SBJ420
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well dont go though all that work!! I have tryed Google. Found a few people like myself looking for some info. My haynes has nothing at all that will help me. I just have a few things that I would like to fix, like my inside light, the cig lighter. I have a serius sat. set up but I need to plug it in to the cig lighter. But what I really would like to do is wire it right in to the fuse box. good idea or no?
- Joined
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there are a couple of blank spots in your fuse panel that already have a hot lead on one side, you can simply add a fuse and your wire ont he other side, a great way to wire in 12V accessories
the entire panel comes out with two screws
the entire panel comes out with two screws
SBJ420
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After driving around the city for 30min looking for somthing I can drive up on I decided to just drive up on my old car ramps in the drive way...... So this is what I got. My rear driver side tire is in the air. Not as much flex as I was hoping. Any ideas what I can change to make more? I think the leaf is hitting somthing, maybe the rear sway bar? What would happen if I was to take out the sway bar in the rear if there is such a thing?
I got my Serius box wired in, also have my bush bar on the way. Took off the front bumper, any one want a free bumper?
I got my Serius box wired in, also have my bush bar on the way. Took off the front bumper, any one want a free bumper?
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remove the sway bars, make quick disconnects
Check the shock lengths and brake line lengths as well
A stock BII will get more flex then that!
Also it appears you have - camber, it needs an alignment
Check the shock lengths and brake line lengths as well
A stock BII will get more flex then that!
Also it appears you have - camber, it needs an alignment
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remove both sway bars is the FIRST thing to do when looking for more atriculation.
If you want to keep them for on road driving to fight body roll then you can simply make some quick disconnects.
It is possible your shocks are too short or too long, both will limit the amount of travel you can get
sway bars limit it first
shocks if not sized properly would be next
then the stock steering will limit it after that (but good for about 12-14" of travel, looks to me like you are getting more like 8"
If you want to keep them for on road driving to fight body roll then you can simply make some quick disconnects.
It is possible your shocks are too short or too long, both will limit the amount of travel you can get
sway bars limit it first
shocks if not sized properly would be next
then the stock steering will limit it after that (but good for about 12-14" of travel, looks to me like you are getting more like 8"
SBJ420
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So here are some pics after I took off the rear sway bar. It makes quite the difference, in a good way. Much more flex. Checked all the break lines, nothing in the way anymore. Now today I will take the front one off, they look like ****, very bent, looks like from when the lift was put in nothing was done with the sway bars. Front ones are all bent out of shape.
Dont notice any difference yet in driving
Dont notice any difference yet in driving
- Joined
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stiff shocks will help fight the new body roll.
You can always make quick disconnects if you want to keep them, the rear bar can actually HELP when wheeling on certain terrain, it forces the front end to work harder...
You can always make quick disconnects if you want to keep them, the rear bar can actually HELP when wheeling on certain terrain, it forces the front end to work harder...
SBJ420
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okay got my new front bumper and bush bar, changed the front drive shaft u-joints. But I got a problem here and some info would be great if possible.
My BII has a push button 4x4 also Manuel locking hubs. When I lock the hubs I get a really bad sound coming from the front. its not constant, its like WWAAA WAAAA WWWAAAA and it get much worse when I turn. I also can feel some resistance when I am moving very slow. Now when I go to move my front drive shaft it does not spin. Like when its not in 4WD, last night when I changed the u-joints I had to lock my hubs so it would stop moving on me. But now it just feels like its in 4WD but I am not sure if its actually in 4WD. Any ideas?
My BII has a push button 4x4 also Manuel locking hubs. When I lock the hubs I get a really bad sound coming from the front. its not constant, its like WWAAA WAAAA WWWAAAA and it get much worse when I turn. I also can feel some resistance when I am moving very slow. Now when I go to move my front drive shaft it does not spin. Like when its not in 4WD, last night when I changed the u-joints I had to lock my hubs so it would stop moving on me. But now it just feels like its in 4WD but I am not sure if its actually in 4WD. Any ideas?
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SBJ420
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- Windsor NS
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- 95 XLT
hahaha thats funny, yeah I live in surrey, work in Burnaby. Yeah its a good truck but needs a little work and that god damn blue is going this weekend. haha was going to head up in the woods this weekend but my 4WD is acting up. Its kind of a piss off. Ever hit up any of these trails around here? Are you on BC4X4.com?
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